MG McAnick

I know where there is a Subaru Legacy. For sale that has its clutch pedal down on the floor. I can pull it up by hand, but there is no resistance when I push it down again, I do not see a fluid reservoir. Is it cable operated? What might cause this situation?

I thought it would be a good idea to post back with "the rest of the story" as ol' Paul Harvey used to say. I wound up taking it to a good mechanic that I have used many times. He's not a Subaru mech, but has always figured out anything I've given him, given a good manual and a little time. Besides, he lets me buy parts wholesale then bring them to him. He tore into it a week ago last Wednesday. I elected to order the new idler kit from Autozone as I didn't think we had time to wait for an ebay order to arrive. When AZ got the kit, the tensioner pulley was WRONG. It had what I'd describe as an additional half moon hole in it instead of the round one that would slide onto the tensioner. I took it back. Their computer said it was right. (If it's not in the computer AZ is often lost.) The commercial counter man called Dayco, who is the kit's compiler. THEY looked it up and faxed him pictures showing the correct bearing already installed on a tensioner. Unfortunately the SKU (That's the Shop Keeping Unit number connected to the bar code) was not in AZ's system, but the right kit existed. They killed 36 hours getting the SKU into their system before AZ could order the kit. When it came in via FedEx next moring air, it had the tensioner included. Since they'd already charged me for the kit without the tensioner, and caused me an extra three day wait, they GAVE me the more expensive kit at no extra charge. They were A LOT cheaper than the local dealer, so despite the extra wait it was worth it. Praise MT Fuji, there were no bent valves. Two notches out of synch on each pulley on the 1/3 side apparently was not enough to kiss the pistons. The 2/4 side didn't slip. The notched pulley's bearing had dried up, but was still barely turning, causing the whole problem. As for the difficult crank pulley bolt, asked and answered in another thread, he got it off using the suggested "starter bump" method. He'll file that for future Subaru reference. My total out of pocket, including four bearings, a new Water pump, Gates belt, and a tensioner (which I would probably have not replaced had it not been free) was $477.62. I think that's pretty reasonable.

Well, he's a very good mechainc, he's just not a Subaru mechanic. Those are few and far between around here. No one suggested anyone when I asked, so I went with the devil I know. He has always figured anything out that I've thrown at him, given a good manual and a little time. He's conscientious enough that he doesn't want to mess anything up. There are those who will charge ahead blindly and break things in the process. Which mechanic would you rather use? I think I made the best choice available at this time.

Some of you very helpful folks will remember my original posting about my friend's car that was running fine, about 65 MPH and suddenly could barely make 40. It had low, not no, compression on 1&3. I thought an update was in order, in a new theread. It appears as though one of the idlers has shucked its bearing. The tech found a bearing seal inside the timing right cover, but we haven't seen the bearing yet. (More below) The valve timing is still OK on the 2-4 side but appears to be off by about four notches on the 1-3 side. When both valves are closed on #s 1 & 3, they hold air from a compressor. With it being just that far out of time, what are the chances that the valves on that side are not bent? I suspect that the last time the timing belt was replaced the tech didn't replace the idlers or tensioner. Hey, they are expensive. The former owner may have been a cheapskate. So is my friend. Autozone gets $270 for the kit. By the time it was ascertained that they should probably be replaced this time, the dealer was closed. I suspect he will be more expensive, but he may have them in stock. My A-Z is three days out. Has anyone ever pressed out and replaced the bearings within their housings? I have not seen them off of the engine yet, but a lot of bearings simply PRESS into place. This would probably be far chea,per than a set from any source, and frankly as a certified buyer of aircraft parts I am well aware that a premium bearing is a premium beraring. Yes, Wichita has built over half of the airplanes EVER built, and I helped. What do you all think? Try it, or forget it? The reason we have not seen the idlers off of the engine yet is that the mechanic is having a great deal of trouble getting the crankshaft pulley off of the crankshaft. Any ideas? The book says use a "chain wrench" but neither of us have one. We may be able to borrow one tomorrow if that's our only hope. It's not something weird like a left hand thread is it?

I have an appointment to deliver it to a full line indy shop on Wed morning. Since she already drove it broken several miles, am I safe in assuming that there is little danger of further damage, or should I have it towed? If anyone knows of a good Subaru guru in the Wichita Kansas area, please let me know. The guy at the shop I usually use is quite capable of installing a timing belt or even removing a head if needed, but he's no Subaru junkie like I'd like him to be. Unfortunately Subaru's are not as popular here as they should be. Even though this is a metropolitan area of roughly half a million people, I can sometimes go all week and not see one. If I go to Arkansas or Colorado I'll see ten in a day.

Well shoot. It has low compression on 1 & 3. It looks like it's time for the pros to take over. My guess is the timing belt has lost some teeth on that side. Is this 2.5L an interference engine?

Since the ignition timing can't be changed to my knowledge, I suppose you are referring to the valve timing when you say the timiming may have jumped. (?) That's possible, but the belt is only 32K miles and 18 months old. I guess I need to check compression next. I didn't bring my compression tester to the house call.

The plug wires are the brand you mentioned. I suspect at least one has been replaced as there are two with the number 3 on them. Yes, got them back on right. I don't know the number on the plugs AZ sold me, but they were not the same as those I removed. I'm not near the car right now, so I can't look. Some more info may be helpful. The car was being driven about 65 on the highway when it went sour. It would only make about 40 after that. She drove it about 15 miles after that. It did not overheat. The fluid levels are fine. I see no leakage of oil or coolant anywhere. The exhaust is clear, no "maple syrup" smell. The car is in Wichita KS although the owner is from KC KS. I have a week to get this figured out before the owner comes back for it.

The car is a '99 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5. I changed all four plugs as they were clearly worn at 131K miles. That didn't make any difference. I checked the wires with an Ohm meter. All appeared to be within spec. I took the coil pack off and took it to Autozone where the guy checked it with a meter which I assumed was an ohmmeter. He said it was within spec, but on the low end. I don't know whether he knew what he was talking about or not. I let him sell me a new one with the understanding that I could return it if that didn't fix the problem. It didn't, so they got it back. I do not see or hear any vacuum leaks. Short of taking it to the local dealer, who doesn't have the greatest reputation, what should I try next?

Surely that would have evaporated in 100 degree heat during the day. 'Round here it wouldn't have lasted five minutes.

Woodpecker, I'm glad to you made it over here from that other generic car site. I told you THESE GUYS KNOW THEIR SOOBS. Pretty good huh? MG

I doubt that actually sold. My top bid was what they call an "if" bid. That means IF the owner takes my bid, it's sold. Somehow I doubt he'll take $550 for it. I'll know by morning.

I'm sitting in a good looking '92 SVX which will sell at auction in about 30 minutes. When I put it in Drive, it seems to start out in 2nd. When I put it in 1, it will lurch ahead an inch or too, and seem to bind up. It's not as though it's in neutral. it's more like in drive with your foot on the brake. I think it's to be avoided. Any possibility of a cheap fix? Replies after noon CDT will be too late.

I crawled under it today with a stethoscope. I think we can be certain that the noise in not coming from disintegrating catalytic converters, but for the life of me, I can't tell where it is coming from. The oil is coming from the front seal, so it's a candidate for new timing belts at the same time as that job is tackled.

I bought another SVX at an auction last week. For that reason, there was no guarantee. Now I'm hearing a noise that sounds as though it's in the bottom of the engine. It does not sound like a ''normal'' rod or main bearing knock, although I can't rule that in or out until I hear from you all. The noise starts at about 2500 RPM whether sitting still or under load. I had thought it went away at higher RPM, but now think it's just masked by all the other things going on. There is no indication of low oil pressure like I think there would be if it had a bad rod or main bearing. Has anyone else ever experienced such a noise in an SVX? If so, what was it?

The oil is quite clear, but I don't know how old it is, its brand or viscosity. It was there when I bought the car. It was about half a QT low. I added a pint can of Seafoam to it yesterday and have driven it about 20 miles, mostly at 60 to 70 MPH. So far there has been no change, although it MIGHT have been a bit quieter after it was good and warmed up. I'll continue to drive it next week to see what happenes.

If the engine displays good oil pressure, wouldn't the oil pump seal have to be good? If it were leaking, the pressure would be low.

I recently bought a dead XT6- AWD with a broken timing belt. It has almost 150,000 miles on it. Yesterday we put on a new pair of belts and fired it up. I don't know much about the car's history. When we started the engine, the lifters were quite noisy. Other than that, the car seems to run well. It was being driven up till last week when the belt broke, but the former owner doesn't know (or isn't telling) how noisy it was before we replaced the belts. He only drove it a month or so. It was supposedly parked for quite a while before he got it. When the belt broke, he decided to wash his hands of the whole thing. My questions are these: Is there any chance the lifters will quiet down? Has anyone tried one of theose "miracles in a can" to quiet XT-6 lifters? If so, which one was successful? The oil lever is right on the mark, and oil pressure is about 2/3 up the gage when warmed up at 40 MPH. I'd say that was good.

1 & 4 do not work at all. It's getting colder, so having a working blower may come in handy for the defroster very soon. On many American cars there is a resistor that works in conjunction with the blower switch. If the resistor goes out, the blower will show symptoms similar to those on my XT. Is there a similar resistor on my XT. If so, where is it? The four position switch is mounted in the console. If there is no resistor, do I have to remove the console to get at the switch, or is there an easier way to remove it? I don't see where it could "pop out". How hard is it to remove the console? It looks rather difficult.

A compression test is not complete unless all four cylinders are checked. You need to know the individual compression and comparison between cylinders as well as checking for a blown head gasket between cylinders (not that I suspect that a head gasket is your problem).

Oil of Olay, oil of delay, or Lexol. The latter is designed for leather. As far as fixing what you've got, There are two possibilities. It can be re-dyed. The dye is actually more like flexible paint. It will still show the deep wrinkles. As far as I know, only upholstery shops are equipped to do this sort of thing WELL. You can buy vinyl paint at Autozone and do it yourself, but the cure will be short lived, and the color match imperfect. Those that I have seen have re-dyed the entire seat for a good match. Since there is damage to the seat, you might also consider having a shop sew in a new piece. They just put in the part that is damaged. Matching what you have will be difficult if not impossible UNLESS there is a piece of leather like a pouch on the back of the seat that you can cut out to use in place of the damaged bolster. I had that done on a Merkur once.

All in all Danbob, I'd rather own and drive a WRX, especially in the long term, but I'll make more money on the Beetle in the short term. Maybe next time I can a better WRX, and afford it.

Yes it is definitely a repo, with missing pieces. There is about a 2" X 6" place atop the dash that appears to have had a set of gages removed from it. I suspect that one of those missing gages was for turbo boost. I don't see another one. I may have to pass on it anyway due to lack of funds. I bought a '99 VW New Beetle today.

I don't think you will have to give back $6500 for your Forester. I find that most automotive recyclers bid about what they figure they can get out of JUST the engine. It's seems to be a rule of thumb in this area. Of course you will not be bidding, but you may be able to negotiate. The Ins Co. is only looking for what they can get from a salvage yard. I have bid on several salvage cars to rebuild, and won my share. The auction I go to is a sealed bid type. Once I won one by $4. Once I lost one by only $10. That hurt. Theft recoveries are my favorites because they seldom seem to be hurt much. Their titles still carry the "former non-highway" brand though. Since you are probably not surrendering your title, it would not get "branded" in my state. Check with local authorities about yours.