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DirtyValentine

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  1. I was able to recreate both issues (radio not coming on and check engine light) by gently returning the key to the "ON" position after cranking. I found that the key could stop in a position between "START" and "ON". In this no-mans-land the radio would be off even though the car was running. I also got the check engine light to come on once by moving the key from this position to the "ON" position while the car was running. Anyway, I replaced the ignition switch (for $400) and all seems well. The car has finally passed inspection, and has not had either problem for the last couple hundred miles. Thanks again for all the help! -Dirty Valentine
  2. Hi Guys, Just wanted to report back in. I had a mechanic I trust check out the P0480 error code (see original post). He went through the suggested procedure for debugging the error code and could not find any problems. He also could not reproduce the ignition switch problem (radio not comming on) so did not want to replace the switch. The problem I'm having now is that the P0480 code keeps comming up. My car fails inspection because they will not pass it with the check engine light on and resetting it resets the emissions. By the time the emissions codes are ready the check engine light is back on! I'm afraid if I take the car to the dealer all they will be able to do is start swapping components until the problem goes away and that could get expensive! I think it makes sense to replace the ignition switch as it appears something is wrong there, but if that does not fix the P0480 code I'm not sure where to start. I really don't want to have to start randomly changing components, but that may be the only way to fix this since the system appears to be fine. Any thoughts? Bill
  3. I have a 99 Subaru Outback wagon. Receintly I have started having an issue where I start the car, and the radio never comes on. It does not happen very often and shutting the car off and back on seems to fix the problem. I was not worried about it until my wife noticed that the AC did not seem to work when this happens. I also just got a check engine light that gave the error code "P0480 - Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit". I think they are all related. I'm guessing that it is a failing relay but I don't know that for sure. Anybody have any thoughts on this or where the relay might be so I can try banging on it if the radio fails again? Thanks - Bill
  4. Ok I finally got around to getting my Outback fixed. I took it to a dealer and suggested it was either a frozen joint or the VC. They agreed that is was the VC. $1000 later I got my car back and no more torque breaking problem. Anyway thanks for the help and I hope this helps somone else out in th future.
  5. Thanks for the comments. I'll probably get the VC repleced in a couple weeks (going on vacation). I'll let everyone know how it turns out. BTW a waring to all Subaru drivers with the alloy wheels. I had the tires replaced because they kept going low. The giant tire wearhouse I went to just replaced the tires and did not clean the rims so I had the same leaking problem. Luckly my mechanic friend let me use his shop to pull the tires and clean the rims. The corrosion was some of the worst he had ever seen. With clean rims and rim sealer I have not had any more problems with tires going low. Many of my friends with Subarus complain about their alloy tires always going low so it seems like a common problem. It seems to me if low tires can destroy your VC you really owe it to yourself to make sure who ever replaces your tires cleans and seals the rims (sealing alone won't do it)! Thanks again and keep the comments comming if any one else would like to chime in. This BB is great! Bill
  6. This board seems to have many links on AT (automatic trans) torque binding but not for the MT (manual trans.). I have a 99 Subaru Outback Wagon with a 5sp. MT and 56Kmiles. It shudders as if binding when making a tight turns (left or right) but only after driving the car for a while (20-30 miles) and seems to get some what worse the longer I'm on the road. I took it to a mechanic I trust and he checked out all the CV joints and the drive train and did not find anything wrong. He said 4WD cars sometimes do this and not to worry. After reading the posts here I'm getting worried. I have fairly new tires (<10K) and keep the pressure up but have not checked the circumferance (will do tomorrow). I was having a problem with one of the old rear tires going low all the time so maybe I burned up my VC (viscous coupling)??? I have read conflicting reports here though. Some say the VC fails open so should not bind, but other say they replaced the VC and the problem went away. Who is right??? I'm quite sure I am experiencing a binding problem as the symptoms are identical to those described for the AT and I trust my mechanic to check all the obvious causes. No one has posted a good explaination for why a MT would have this problem even though I don't seem to be the only one with it. Any help??? If I'm going to drop a grand to fix the VC I want to know it's going to work. Thank Bill
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