000utback

Thanks for all the helpful responses. In addition to the comments above, I noticed that removing 2 17mm bolt heads will allow me to take the bracket off the hub. Working with it in a vise was much easier. Better position finally enabled me to pull the sucker out. It is badly pitted. Polished the bore with steel wool wrapped round a drill bit, and polished the pin. Reassembled with NeverSeize so Wifey can get it inspected tomorrow. The little rubber belows was ruined by the torch. Anybody have a part number to get just the belows; and how does it attach to the bracket? Seems to be very secure. Well, thanks again. Your helpful was much more useful than digging through a manual.

Hey, trying to change the front pads on 2000 outback wagon. On each brake there is a bolt at the top and bottom that I removed to swing the caliper up and get the pads out. Those bolts are attached to slides in a frame, sealed with a bellows bushing. So, with new pads, those slides need to pushed in to the frame to get the caliper back on. THe top assemblies are in good shape, but the bottoms on left and right are frozen up. I managed to get one side loose with a torch, and can rotate it but not get it out. How can I get those slide things out so I can clean the hole and lubricate and stuff? A typical 15 minute brake job is turning in to all afternoon. THanks for any assistance!

Been looking all over this afternoon, can't find recommendations on spark plug wires for my 2000 outback wagon 2.5. Advance lists an OEM replacement, as well as some pricier Magstar, NGK, Autolite, and BWD. I'm leaning towards the Autolite Professional series, cuz maybe it's better than OEM but not as pricey as some. Any experience with these brands; or any others for that matter? car has been running bad and showing an ignition code on #2 cylinder. thanks!

Hey, yeah, thanks for the response. The nasioc website is where I found the link to the geocities wiring listing that I included. That shows most all Subies and definitely the wrx and outback using the same plug and the same pin-outs. I think that other link is for installing into an older Sube. Maybe I should walk up to somebody in the parking lot and ask them if I can take out their wrx radio and test my new/used wrx radio in their wrx. I doubt that they'll go for it. Thanks again for the comments. Any other thoughts?

thanks for the response. I hoped to get a good deal on a quick install oem from ebay or the forums. Here's an update: originally in 00 outback legacy wagon: 86201AE08A stereo/cassette/wb number P120, with auxiliary input, single din. always worked, still works. Original 6-CD changer H6240LS100 that plugged into stereo above. Mechanical malfunction, ate CDs, removed and trashed. Purchased "used" "excellent" 86201FC080 from '02 WRX. This is double din radio/cassette/6-cd. I can not get it to work. No power, lights, or sound. Purchased "used" but not nearly as nice 86201FC080 from '02 WRX. Same as above. Also, can not get it to work. No power, lights or sound. But my original radio works great! (but I can't play cds) http://www.geocities.com/svxdc/WRX-pinout.htm confirms that the pin-outs on these units are all the same. Can anyone confirm that these units are plug&play across the models? It's hard to imagine that I got 2 dead units in a row. The nice one was only used for a year. Am I, like, crazy?

Help! The CD part of my radio quit in my 2000 outback wagon. I got a used 2002 Subaru WRX OEM 6-disc CD changer Stereo from ebay. (label June 2001 model 86201FC080) The plugs on the back look identical. When I first connect it, the cd changer whines for a moment, then that's it. No radio, no lights, no power, no sound. I put my old radio back in and it fires up fine. Were the pin-outs changed, even though the plug is identical? Or did I get a bum deal? Any response appreciated.

Hey, well, autopart.com was verra good to deal with. Quick email answers to questions and the part was correct. Their number SG1089 oxygen sensor. They also offer sockets for removal, but I got the T75518 Ampro at Advance for 11.42. Very limited access, but I managed to get it through the rf wheel well without removing the heat shield. Subie is running much better now.

hey, yeah, thanks men. I finally went out in the cold and confirmed that mine is the 6-wahr rectangular plug. I didn't realize the plug was so easy to get to. I'll give this vendor a try and see what happens.

Looks like I want 22791AA00A oxygen sensor for my 00 outback wagon automatic. These guys www.autopart.com have the best price. The closeup photo on their website shows a 6-pin connector. http://www.autopart.com/O2Sensor/O22000SUBARUIMPREZA.htm But I've seen other references that say it's a 5 pin. Can anybody save me a trip under the car and confirm if it's 5 or 6? Also, has anybody done business with these folk? Their price is great but their disclaimer is huge. Thanks for any words... Jak

Men! I am installing a Subaru oem hitch receiver on my 2000 outback wagon. The instructions said use a hole saw to make 2 1.5" holes in the bottom of the bumper cover. That part worked. The bolts to mount the oem hitch go up into nuts that are factory welded onto the bumper supports. The hitch also bolts onto the factory towhooks. Well. I am having a terrible time running these 5" bolts vertically up into that welded nut on the bumper mount. The Subaru bolt pack (L1010LS100) lists the bolts as 1/2 x 5". They turn terribly hard and the threads are getting messed up. Looks to me like they're 1/2-13 US standard bolts. Aren't Subarus metric? I don't have a metric bolt here to try, but I wonder if the M12x1.75 would run right up there. Why would Subaru put 1/2-13 bolts in their package? What do you guys think - should these be metric bolts or us standard? Thanks in advance for any comments. The car is up on stands, the muffler is hanging loose, and the hardware stores are closed.

Oops, sorry, now I found it. It's in the owner's manual under "flat tire". Not under tires, wheels, maintenance, or specifications, where an engineer would look. Here it is for anybody else who follows the thread in hopes of an answer. "58 - 72 ft lb which is 88-110 lbs pressure" on their short lug wrench. The 19mm lug is nigh identical to a 3/4" socket.

hey, can't find any reference to wheel lug nut torque values for my 00 outback wagon, standard factory wheels. Any suggestions?

2000 Outback with 90k, auto trans. When I shift from Park to Drive or Reverse, there is a noticeable delay before the transmission engages. THis seems to be getting worse. Any suggestions? On a similar note - is there a Mobil1 spin-on filter that will fit the atf filter? Thanks!

My obw is rated at 2000lb towing. I also saw the class I hitch for the Impreza which still had a 1.25 square receiver for my bike rack. IT's also about 20 pounds lighter than the class II. But doggone apparently they don't make the same type for the obw. so it's either the Sub class I with flat tongue at $200 or several options of class II for $125. A wise man once said "just get a class II and don't pull a trailer over 2000lb." Incidentally, last year I got a very nice Alumna trailer with 2000# gross weight. Thanks for all the thoughts and ideas.

I can't find a class I hitch for the 2000 legacy outback wagon. good choices on Class II, but with a car rated at 2000#, the class I is sufficient. Has anybody found any specific models? I 've already spent an hour searching the online stores. Thanks! Live to hunt; hunt to live.