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the gr-2's (from visual observation) are identical to oem. the problem you'll run into (as did I) is that if you order from tire rack, the fronts did not include the tab to secure the abs wire and i was not about to use zip ties as they had suggested. order from jason at auburn sube and you'll get a pretty fair price in mid-80's each. 99 leg l sedan 5mt 2.2l

99 leg l sedan 5m 85k miles. not slipping yet and probably 50/50 city-highway. but, 21 yo original owner till 55k miles.

would have to look up the bleed sequence but have used the motive products bleeder on a 928, corolla and 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5mt. the german cars have a screw-on master cyl cap, the japs just are a cap, so the product uses a couple of small chains on some j-hooks to hold the device to the top of the master cyl. the unit holds plenty of fluid, 2-4 qts, not sure. first, test the seal by pumping the tank tp 10 psi. that is all you use. if good seal, unscrew pump from tank, fill, pump to 10 psi and start loosening bleeder screws. have a catch bottle (8 oz oj/plastic) and some small tubing. it works and is worth the $$. i got the kit with 3 attachments including for american vehicles and it was like $80-100. you need one!

lemme tell you about subaru seats -- they stink. on long trips you'll arrive with a dislocated right hip. i'm now experimenting with a piece of 2" foam cut inside of the side bolsters and about 3-4" back of the thigh support. since foam will degrade and marr the seats with direct contact, it is contained within the packing plastic bag that it came in. this is a real jerry rig but the other choice is some nice aftermarket seats -- at least the driver's side! the seats are too thin in width, the mid-40's rear end was not considered by the 6-sigma design group. this problem really is a PITA. 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5mt 30th anniv

hey a97obw, great pic of the sep plate. what are the two "dowels" at the bottom of the engine? i see a pin about midway up on the right side. also, does anyone have part numbers for the plastic and aluminum plate in order to determine whether it is on a particular car? the sube parts listing may just show the superceded part number to the alum part. thanks 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5M 30th anniv.

it's funny, you don't know you need wheel bearings until you go for an alignment. no noise, no problems. pull the hub assy's and deliver them to a shop with a press. someone will give you torque specs for re-assy. depending on miles you're probably due for shocks, ball joints and outer tie-rod ends. my estimate: 50 each for bearings, 50 total to install, 75 each for shocks, 50 each for ball joints, 50 each for tie ends, plus 75 for an alignment. your bill: ouch.

did you have to tilt the engine rearward in order to gain clearance to slide the tranny off? how much distance between tranny and engine before it broke free? my only reference point is a clutch change on a 91 zr1, this looks to be a little more complicated.

what's being missed here is that the packed up snow/ice can smash out the plastic splashguards contained in the wheelwells either when turning or bottoming out. it will dust the plastic push-pins as well. no good solution other than close monitoring at fuel stops etc.

have you removed your old tranny, if so, how difficult was it? i may have to do a clutch on mine and the thought is just dreadful... 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5M 30th anniv.

my 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5M 30th anniv is a cal emission car and was originally sold in oregon. it does not have a maf sensor. it has a map/speed density sensor like a 92 vette. also, the airbox intake system is less convoluted as some i've seen. imagine that: a more desireable system on a california car. i backed into some good luck.

friend got in over his head and i told him i would go to the oracle for an answer. he's got an 03 baja and it has a shimmy from the rear upon brake application. he got the caliper out of the way and also removed the cv axle bolt but then got flustered and quit. question is: how is rotor removed from this point? he said there were some threaded holes where i guessed that some bolts could be inserted to push the rotor out. of course, he doesn't have metric bolts of proper length etc. i wonder is this setup like some hondas where the entire control arm has to be removed due to inside-mounted disc mount bolts? i'm not too sure about that though as i assume that there is an e-brake assembly behind there. it's not really my problem but i volunteered to attempt an inquiry. any quick answers guys?

i bought a factory carpet for my 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5M 30th anniv and it was about $300 plus. there was a part number on the old one too. there are some small plastic tabs on the sides that anchor it underneath the plastic door sill plates. don't just pull on the edges of the carpet to remove: carefully pry up the plastic door sill plates (they don't have to be completely removed) so you can release these plastic tabs. if you find the part number is unavailable you don't want to have pulled against these plastic tabs as the carpet may rip and you'll be up SC. careful on putting the front seats in too, I got one scuff by being a *********************. oops. also put in fresh speakers all around. yeah buddy.

can't help on the mechanic, but if yer heading through cathedral city you might stop to eat at el gallito for some of the freshest mex you've ever had. there's also a huge strip joint nearby although i've forgotten the name and street.

you may be right about that badge thing: my 99 leg l sedan 30th 2.2 5m has the badge and a build date of 12-98.

hey lawson, what kind of iron is your girl slingin' around?