jamal
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Posts posted by jamal
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I made an adapter harness for the 93-94 legacy that allows you to put any 95+ radio in the car.
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I just swapped the buckle. I did have to drill out a rivet but after that it fit on there and worked fine. The only problem was occasionally having to dig for the lap belt because I didn't stick on the plastic guide.
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I'll be there next thursday-tuesday
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Looking at this site below if it does not work there must be a lot of suckers out there -
Hey guess what you're one of them.
Here's a nice explanation why it won't work:
You can't run your car on half-water, half-gas. The amount of power you'd need to split enough water per hour to power the car would be phenominal. You'd probably have to tow around a trailer full of car batteries to do it.Most of the home-make HHO kits create so little HHO as to be absolutely pointless, because creating enough to actually affect anything takes a ton of power.
Here are some calculations derived from an old post I had a couple of months ago regarding the Scorpion hybrid hydrogen-gasoline car:
Lets assume your STi can get 30 mpg under ideal conditions driving at 60 mph on the highway. That means that you use approximately 2 gallons of gas per hour. If the hydrogen kits could actually give you 50% mileage increases, they would need to reduce that to 1.33 gallons, or replace 0.67 gallons per hour of gasoline with hydrogen.
A gallon of gas weighs approximately 6 pounds, or 2.73 kg. We need to replace 0.67 gallons, so that's approximately 1.8kg of gas. Hydrogen has 2.73 times the energy density of gas, so we only need 0.66 kg of hydrogen gas to replace that gasoline. Now to the unfortunate part. It takes approximately 9 kg of water to create 1 kg of hydrogen gas, so we need to be able to break down about 6 kg of water per hour to meet our hydrogen needs. For those who don't think well in kg, that's 6 liters per hour.
Breaking down 1 kg of water per hour requires roughly 33kW-h of power. Since we need to break down 6 kg per hour, we'll need 198kW-h of power available. If we're getting our power from conventional 12V car batteries, that means we'll need to be continuously drawing 16,500 amps. Not sure what a typical car battery can supply continuously, but I doubt it's much more than 100 amps. So you'd need something on the order of 165 spare batteries in a trailer behind your car to keep the system running. And even then, it would only work for as long as your batteries last. And I'm guessing that towing around the 3000 or 4000 lbs of batteries would probably negate most of the fuel savings.
The home kits generally only draw something on the order of 10 amps from your car's electrical system. Assuming that they run at 12V, that gives you 120w-H to work with. That is enough to split 3.6g of water per hour (about 3/4 of a teaspoon). That would result in approximately 0.4g of hydrogen, which with its higher energy density, replaces approximately 1.1g of gasoline (roughly 1 teaspoon). So instead of using 1536 teaspoons of gas per hour (2 gallons), your STi would now use 1535 teaspoons, for a whopping mileage increase of 0.065%.
Water fuel conversion is a giant hoax. Always has been, always will be. There's no way to steal enough power from your engine's electrical system to create enough HHO to do anything meaningful in your engine. If you could buy pressurized hydrogen tanks, and either run the engine on pure hydrogen, or inject the hydrogen into the intake manifold, then it would be a great fuel source. But making it from water on-board is a losing proposition all-around.
if you really want to save money on gas drive less or trade-in for a corolla.
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yeah I got mine for $100 (fronts only).
they'll sit about an inch higher at the lowest setting, and you can't swap rails.
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Yes mcmaster has that style too on pg 249. They call them "Type 430 Stainless Steel Nonperforated Worm-Drive Hose and Tube Clamps" - 'Also known as smooth band clamps, these have a nonperforated band with rolled edges to prevent damage to hose and tube.'
Those, or T-bolt clamps, are the way to go.
too bad they're $5-10 each.
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hho is a scam and you will never see a net gain.
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turbo is oil lubricated, and water-cooled.
Oh, and here's a piston I pulled out of an 07 sti today:
I like to call that reason #1 not to have some guy opensource road tune your car.
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Be aware, a more than ordinary number of 2.5 Turbo engines have cracked pistons early in life. It seems the very lean fuel mixture required to meet latest emission laws are causing extreme combustion temperatures.
Subaru over here are replacing engines under warranty.
I've seen a few of them (ok there are 4 at our shop right now) but it generally only happens when they're poorly modified and tuned.
I'd take the turbo because it's a much better base to get more power out of. With a downpipe and good tune you'll see at least an extra 50 hp at the wheels.
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Well, you can always just make your own. An intake, downpipe and a tune is about all it takes to be at the 380S power levels.
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if you have the same year, the only difference is the angle of the bolt holes in the clevis if you're using wrx sedan parts.
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I posted that here too btw in the repair manual.
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a wrx is an impreza
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put a little dab of the sealant on the valve cover gasket anywhere it makes a sharp corner up or down (from the plane of the head) too.
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it's not like subaru has their own foundry and makes the rotors themselves anyway. They're probably made by centric or something.
Subaru also has a Canadian/American line of parts, so there can be two part numbers for the same thing, where one is from Subaru of Japan and the other is from SOC.
Plus rotors are basically a flat piece of iron. As long as they're straight when they come out of the box it doesn't matter much.
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there's no adjustment. Are the slider pins greased up?
otherwise the caliper can stick a bit and wedge the pad against the rotor. Once you start moving it won't be a problem unless they're really seized up.
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I posted that here too actually.
Although the nasioc thread has been updated slightly.
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I think there may be a thread somewhere that explains the different brakes that are on Subarus. Perhaps in the repair manual section with brake stuff.
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probably wear clips. you pop them onto the corners of the pads so that when they wear down the clip squeals on the rotor.
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Not sure what Ru your diagram is for but, the 97 Outback has the hub and rotor as a single piece. It would be easy to swap hubs, unfortunately not in this case. Later, Tim
no. Pull the caliper bracket and the rotor pops right off.
But for reference the lug part number is 610-401
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yeah, there are these two things I like to call the green brackets of death. They sit right above the fuel rails and don't really do all that much. Generally after I take them off they don't get put back on the car.
There are also just a few random tapped holes that aren't used for anything I think.
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It's easier with something like this:
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Uh, were talking about different type of lift. Not a service lift, or shop lift. This kit definately won't fit ALL Subarus
Ha, I was a little confused there...
Anyhow, the subframe mounting is the same on all 1st and 2nd gen cars, so it should work on all 90-99 Legacys, all 93-01 Imprezas, all Foresters, and 95-99 Outbacks. Manuals and automatics have different transmission mounting so that would probably be an issue if you wanted to space that out. You'd probably also want to make new pitch stops depending on the amount of lift.
What does change is the rear strut top bolt pattern. 1st and 2nd gen differ. So plates that space the struts tops downward would have to be different for a 2nd gen car.
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93-01 Impreza and 90-94 Legacy are the 1st generation of the cars, and the platform is nearly the same except for the length. The Legacy is about 4" longer from what I've heard. The 98-02 Forester is also based on the 1st gen impreza chassis.
The 02-07 Impreza and 95-99 Legacy (2nd gen) are also very similar, once again except for length. 2nd gen foresters once again are based off this impreza chassis.
The 3rd gen Legacy 00-04 is kind of an odd-ball and doesn't share much with other cars.
The new 08 Imprezas and 05+ Legacys are also nearly the same chassis.
Anyway, the lift points are the pinch seams below the doors, and if the lift can adjust 6 or so inches in length it will work on all subarus.
So i finally broke down and bought.....
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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oh come on. My friend/coworker drives a 430whp 460wtq 06 wrx and so far (a year or so) his 5-speed is holding up fine. I can think of at least two other people I know personally running 400+whp through a 5-speed without trouble, one for over 40k miles.
Yeah, they'll break, but generally only when you're doing something stupid.