jamal

not even close. Drive a Saab 9-2x or 9-6, however, and you might be reminded of a Subaru.

Putting the FWD fuse in causes duty solenoid C to go to 100% uh... duty. Driving like that for extended periods of time might cause the solenoid to wear out, I hear, which is an expensive fix.

I think they'll fit, but it'd be best to just try putting one on a front wheel.

The air filter hasn't been changed in 158k? Is that like a pretend picture in your sig and you don't actually do any work on your car? On a more serious note, I hear K&N filters have the potential to really mess things up if they're not cleaned and oiled properly. Just get one for like $10 at a parts store.

Well, it's worth it as a good, solid, reliable motor that will last you many years. A freer flowing muffler will bring out the boxer rumble, but there's really nothing you can do to make more power. The intake is already pretty efficient, and you can't reliable push much boost through a stock open-deck block. I've come to live with that, and instead dumped some money on suspension and brakes. If you want a fast Subaru on the cheap, I'd suggest picking up an older Impreza shell and swapping a WRX driveline. I know of a place in SoCal that will do everything for you for $6500, parts included. One of these days...

You could do what all the cool kids are doing: As far as rotors go, you could check the regular online places like buybrakes.com and importrp.com. I think napa has pretty inexpensive rotors. I mean, as long as they're flat, I don't see much of a difference between a $200 slotted disc and a $30 no-name blank. I might pick up some Hella Supertones one of these days.

My 4eat only made it 135,000 miles.

They won't turn on with the parking lights on? Below the bumper isn't all that great of a place to put driving lights. Too much light will get reflected off the road in front of you, and not as much will be where you need it- far ahead of the car. The lights will also have to be aimed higher, which makes things worse, because then most of the light is just shining up into the sky. I've got my Hella FF1000s ghetto rigged above my bumper, and I feel they're in the perfect position. I kind of shake my head when I see guys with expensive lights on expensive light bars, mounted 3 inches from the ground. I'd suggest putting some better fogs in the fog lamp holes and re-wiring them to come on whenever you want. The Hella 500s fog lights are good. Danielsternlighting is a great online resource for lighting information. Edit- picture:

I'm going to assume you're putting 04-05 STi springs on 93-01 AGXs. A little bit of looking through a stickied thread on nasioc gives me this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=308442 and this: http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/techdocs/spring/spring.html. The struts should work fine with the spring rates, but the STi spring has a different lower diameter than the GC Impreza. Not only that, but I get the feeling you'll have a hard time finding an upper spring perch to work with the STi springs, as they have a weird strut top/spring perch combo piece as opposed to the more common seperate strut top and spring perch. If you were to try to use the STi tops, you'd have to do some "modification" to your strut towers. It's what I had to do after I couldn't find a spring perch to work with my STi take-offs and GC group N tops.

Any reason you change your oil every 2 months or have to use Genuine Subaru filters? Last I heard, Purlator makes Subaru filters, and I got a PureOne for like $4 at Autozone. You could stretch that interval out quite a bit by going with a semi- or full--synthetic oil, as well. This oil filter study should give you a fairly good idea of which non-OEM filters are good.

Yeah, totally. My car tries to flip over all the time. The exclamation marks mean you're joking, right?

Well, the really nice thing is that it's more durable than dino oil, as in it doesn't really break down. You can go much longer between changes. I just switched to that Mobil 7500 mile semi-syn, and while I haven't noticed a performance difference, it was less than twice as much, and I'll be using it for twice as long. These people are doing a study on synthetic oil.

You're in Texas, so you could just cut the muffler off.

I only took pictures afterwards. My friend has some in-car footage on tape somewhere, though.

Yes, it is a WRX with a Saab front end and a little more insulation (heavier), and the option for a sunroof, HIDs, and leather. Unfortunatly, you're probably not going to be able to find a 5-speed aeros. The linear is the 2.5 n/a and the aero has the turbo. I think they also have slightly softer springs and some STi suspension and steering parts. Also, don't buy it for more than $8000 less than sticker.

I've been doing it for years.

I just saw it and thought it was hilarious. I also like the one with all the other cars driving around on two wheels.

Well, the 05 Outback does have between 8.4 and 8.7" of ground clearance, which isn't much less than an Explorer (9.2) or Jeep Liberty (8.9). It has more than an MDX (8.0) or Highlander (7.7).

I put a jy tranny in my auto 93 Legacy L AWD. Reverse stopped working for me at 130,000, and when I went to a transmission shop, independant Subaru mechanic, and the dealer, I was quoted at over $2000 at the dealer and tranny shop, and the mechanic referred me to that tranny place. We found one with 80k miles for about $700 I think, had it installed by a mechanic my dad knows, and it's been working fine for the last 20,000 miles.

23mpg on my freeway commute in my 93 Legacy L AWD. It has WRX wheels and RE92s, which are a little taller than stock. 60 miles each way mostly moving pretty well. I've seen as high as 27, but it's a little low at the moment. I'm assuming it's because my p/s pump is on the way out and cruise at 80 and I'll hit 90+ when I get open space. I think I'll get a V1 with my next paycheck, which is going to be huge. I've also been meaning to bump up the tire pressure a few psi to see what it does. Going up ~2 psi made a noticable difference awhile back. I'm at 34f/33r right now and I've been meaning to go up to maybe 36/35. My roof rack will probably go back on in the near future, so I'll see how that affects mileage as well. Having to fill up every 5 one-way trips gives me a pretty easy and accurate way to keep track of mileage.

Heh, yeah. I have a growing pile of stickers I might someday put on the faring, although now I have the racks completely off. I mostly just commute to work now, but I'll probably be needing the bike rack sometime soon.

I haven't ever driven my car without the faring, but riding in cars with a similar rack, I noticed mine was much quieter. I did see a slight improvement in economy with the rack off altogether. I also get better mileage with the bike rack than with the ski rack (and less noise). I didn't pay as much attention in fluid mechanics as I should have, but it seems to me that it reduces drag a bit. Plus, cars just look so much better with fairings, as long as they're not all bumpy / put on half-assedly. I think I spend like 30 min getting mine perfect.

Tinted windows and heated seats?

I hear WRX seats aren't hard to get in, either. Are there Imprezas with pass-through rear seats? I'd like to someday pick up some RS seats for my 93 Legacy, but wouldn't want to lose the folding down capability, although it is heavy and I don't use it frequently.

Well, I accidentally posted my for sale ad in here, so I thought I'd turn this into something useful: I have a 93 Legacy AWD sedan, and I'm in the process of installing 04 STi struts and springs (front go in tomorrow). The fronts bolt right in, and the rears don't. The rear strut top has a slightly different bolt pattern, so you either need to change the tops, or make new holes. My original plan was to use some group N rear strut tops (which are now for sale), and use my existing spring perches, because I was told they would fit on the STi springs. Unfortunately, the spring perches are too big, and I have no idea if there are perches that will actually fit. I went to a dealership and they didn't have any, so I resorted to option two: making new holes. The bolts on the STi top are spaced a little farther apart than those on my car, so I drilled two holes inside of the inner holes on the strut tower. The plan was to give a little bit of negative camber. The tops didn't fit, though, because they rubbed up against the inside of the tower. So then the two holes became slots and I filed out the outer holes. I was careful to file the outer holes the same amount, so there shouldn't be any wierd alignment problems. I have camber bolts and I'm getting it aligned next week, so I'll find out then in any case. So, with the modified strut towers, everything fit right in and now my 93 Legacy will have new STi suspension. Yay. The ride height in the rear seems to be the same, and it feels much more solid. My old struts were pretty much done for, so I needed to replace this stuff anyway. I found the suspension used on nasioc. Here's a thread on legacycentral with some pictures and stuff. Update: Got the fronts in, it rides pretty stiff and handles well, but likes to rotate. There's a little bit of positive rear camber, so I'll need to put in the camber bolts I bought.