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rverdoold

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About rverdoold

  • Rank
    Subaru Nut
  • Birthday 11/18/1982

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.out-back.nl
  • Skype
    rverdoold

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Netherlands
  • Interests
    alpinism, climbing
  • Occupation
    Post doc in biophysics and MEMS technology
  • Referral
    long long time ago
  • Biography
    Working in high tech semiconductor sensor industry developing for medical applications
  • Vehicles
    91 legacy, 99 impreza, 09 Outback
  1. My PowerSteering (PS) pump bearing showed signs of going bad with a ticking steel on steel noise especially in cold weather. Now I got one from a donor car but of course to the same model same engine number the pump is slightly different (only mine is 9 months newer). (mine is last BP 2009 OBW series EU). The main housing of the pump looks exactly the same. But then: 1. The one piece where the piping connects with the elbow has a different angle, pointing more forward. I was thing to just undo the screw and use the elbow one I have on car now. 2. The other piping connector is more a mystery, mine has the banjo bolt directly on the housing, but here seems a nut is there. Can i just remove that nut? and then put my current banjo on the housing. Or, do I have to put the banjo on top of this nut (seems to fit) Then the bracket that holds the cover is bend (donor had to hood damage, ran into a trailer after it was rear-ended), but can easily transfer my own as well. Will this work?
  2. The car: 2009 2.5 subaru outback with 4eat and vdc. with little over 100k miles. When the car is warm and gearbox too the downshifting during braking at a traffic light for example goes quite rough from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st. When accelerating the shift from 1st to second is smooth, from 2nd to 3rd is rough again. When arriving at a roundabout (through speed for 2nd or 3rd gear) it seems the gearbox is in doubt and at last moment dups it rough in 2nd. Shifting with the steering shifters is rough as well. When cold it drives fine. Now it is due to atf change in 3k miles. Now the questions: 1. Just replace the ATF 2. Flush the ATF 3. Flush ATF and remove bottom and replace filter 4. Flush ATF, replace filter and whatever else !?! It gave ones an error on atf temp sensor input low, never ever gave it again (10k miles ago), it was coincidently with an exhaust leak at center to front pipe connection.
  3. ATF is red. ATF is used in the gearbox if it is an automatic obviously. And ATF is used in the power steering. So It could be a leaking power steering system (check the fluid in reservoir) It could be your automatic is leaking ATF (bad) check the dipstick It could be that your gearbox seal between the front diff and automatic is broken (very bad) and that it is leaking out of the front diff. Check front diff dipstick. To check the PS: pump and lines and steering rack for leaks. There rubber boots around the moving parts of the steering rack, they age. Automatic: There cooling lines from the gearbox to the radiator, check those for leaks. Front diff: check the drive axle places where enter the diff. Check all drain plugs
  4. Usually I hardly visit the dealer and I was onced proven that I should avoid this one for sure in future. I had brought my 09 OBW (2003-2009 model) on LPG in for valve clearance adjustment, as LPG can wear the valve seats faster. I had only visited this dealer once before to replace the CV-boot and stabiliser ends and had an OK impression. Note that the number of official dealers in Netherlands is pretty low, and keep in mind that of the OBW from 2004 to 2009 only 2500 cars were sold in the Netherlands!! So it is rare and finding a good dealer or workshop with Subaru experience is quite touch. It took them 4 to 5 hours to check and adjust the valve clearance. I think this is WAY to much time. But ok, i can not judge as I have never done this myself on this car. I picked up the car and drove home with a quite constant smell of gasoline. Remember once running on LPG the gasoline injectors are shut off and but the fuel system remains pressurised. After 15 minute drive I arrived at home and opened the hood. Literally the whole engine compartment was drenched in gasoline. The cylinder 2 injector was blowing gasoline everywhere. I pulled the plug of the fuel pump and it stopped spraying. Road side assistance (dutch AAA) which has a good reputation had a quick look (as it is for 'free') and took the fuel rail of 2/4 off and showed a half missing seal rubber! This means for sure that they did not install it correctly and broke it and that for sure they did not test drive it. Amazing it did not burn down, knowing last week ik filled the gasoline tank full and LPG tank (110 L of fuel!). Questions: What is a reasonable time for valve clearance adjust and check working time? For me it is really valve covers off, fuel system off (injectors and rail) 1 timing belt cover to see cam position and measure from underneath as this gives best access, replace seals and reinstall. Once the fuel injectors are out, which seals do you normally replace? Was I lucky no BOOM happened? To put costs in perspective, One previous dealer (far away) costed 490 euro for ATF, Diff F, Diff R, LPG spark plugs and valve clearance adjust, this costed 466 euro only for valve check.
  5. So I checked it. Currently I still run winter tires which still have 5 mm of thread (was 8 or 9 when new) which are 225/55/R16 (and have 807 rev/mile) When I drive 80 on GPS (straight good lock 24 sats) it is 88 on speedo, which is a good 10%!!! Original size is 215/55/R17 which is 790 revs/mile and speedo should be 6 to 7% off which is normal here. If I would mount 225/55/R17 than it is 777 revs/mile and speedo still shows about 3% to much. However this tire is a full Inch taller than my current winter tire! My only worry is, will it clear the strut base and the fender inside? I will try to measure some with a spacer being a half inch, the width is the same as the winter tire only it reaches half inch higher on top. Ground clearance increases half inch too i think.
  6. Hi Guzzi, or Bongiorno, Yes I run on LPG with the 2.5, these cars are not fun on gasoline here, as tax goes to CO2 and weight (not engine size as Italy is I think). (I have a GSI-Flex lpg system without valve saver as I think it is not necessary, it runs about 11L 100km). I can run any tire I would want to in size as long as I do not damage the roads (no spikes).
  7. I have a 2009 OBW (2003-2009 model), now I am in the hunt for new tires. Originally the car was delivered with Geolandar g900 215-55-R17 tires. Unfortunately this is not a very common size over here. However if I check cars101 the US models were supplied with 225-55-R17, which also here is a way more common size. I can not imagine it would not fit, even the rims are 17jj so those are the same too. I am not interested in a super correct speedo, now it is about +8% at 100 km/h Are there suspension differences that could explain the wider tire would fit? My winter tires are 225-55-R16 so one inch smaller
  8. If you diagnose it by 'Failed' do you know what part did fail? (I assume you have an automatic) Did you loose drive (no more forward or backward movement)? = could be low on oil Did sprockets fall out (yes indeed completely shot). You can hook up an OBD reader and check for stored codes in the transmission. It might be something more simple than you right now think it is.
  9. My 1999 1.6 was just exactly the same as the 1.8 and 2.0 of those days. (the 1.6 is a 1.8 with different pistons, which is a part of the piston slap issue with these cars but they can last well over 400k km on LPG).
  10. Did you check the trans oil? If the TC looses oil it will stop working, and you loose drive. The pressure in the trans could be lost by leaking cooling line.
  11. That is what I did too. Without belt the noise is completely gone. Will rebuild the alternator bearing and brush. Those seem easy. The ps pump bearings seems harder.as it is differently mounted but haven't looked carefully to those diagrams yet.
  12. Indeed either alternator or ps pump. The alternator runs ok with no noticeable play in pulley, however the ps-pump has back and forward play in the pulley and imaginable torsional play. I reinstallEd the belt with somewhat less tension and noise is less. Are both bearings serviceable?
  13. I have an 2009 outback with factory HID lights and the now lasted 100k miles. I checked the bulb and would not worry on bulb lifetime. However I think everyone putting after market HID lamps in their car should be put in front of it and see if it does not blind other traffic. Factory HIDS have shutters and special lenses. So stay with Leds and check for blinding.
  14. Was going to check the alternator, should be easy by removing the belt. Is that bearing replaceable?
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