sun417

Brand new in box carb fits toyota hillux 1969-1971 anybody out there know if it can be fitted on a 1987 subaru gl wagon gl. I can get it for $75.00 Would I have to go machine shop route to get conversion plate?

Great thats what I want to know which is bogus? Here is the rest of the stuff they claim http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/

[interesting info on lube. I have been looking into ways to get better performance on my 87 wagon. I no mechanic and the info on the link is contrary to most I have read but it makes some good ideas. Take a look and let me know what you guys think. Here is the link http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/ultra5.htm

You might want to look long and hard before running e85. My owners manuel spcifically warns against it. I have read quite alot about the stuff and used to be convinced it would be our salvation from weaning off oil but not in a older subbie. Take a look at this link and I know of a few others. http://running_on_alcohol.tripod.com/id26.html http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_motherearth/me1.html http://www.moonshine-still.com/page2.htm If you are thinking about building an engine mabe this link would help also http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/anodizing.html Good Luck

Chrome plated should be just like anodized both are just a thin coating. I am going to look aaround a little more just in case the comment about flaking is right. I just want to be able to burn e085. I also have to increase compression so it will burn about the same as gas engine. The been doing chrome piston rings ofr years. thats why it takes a about 8,000 miles for the newer soobies (gen I and II) to break in. nipper

I am looking into a rebuild of an ea82. Subaru specifically mentions the use of alchol in their 1987 engine. I was wondering if an anodized surface would protect the aluminum from the ill effects of the alchol. I understand that an anodized surface is near the hardness of a dimond. Looks like this would be a positive effect for an engine. I'm thinking anything aluminum be protected pistons, block, etc. Call me crazy but it's just a thought. Look forward to your comments. Here is where I got the info http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/anodizing.html

The guy I got the car from had already removed everything that could possibly remove. All A/C gone , all vac hoses and pollution stuff looks to be missing to tell the truth when you open the hood it looks like an empty closet. I have been in the process of stoping all oil leaks which is done. Now I want to try to bring the mpg up a little if I can right now its runs a broad spetrum 16-20. I had it plugged up at the garrage and they mechanic said all looked well. A 1.8 should get better than 20 shouldn't it? I also plan to remove the power steering for an electric unit some time when one flys by on e-bay

Is it possible to use this fan on a 1987 GL wagon 1.8? I know I can straight wire it with a fuse to the battery but It would be nice to control by temp. Live in ND, at -20 fan running might not be so good. Got any ideas or help. Thanks Bob<><

I am thinking about pulling my engine and do everything possible to increase the mpg. I have been looking at a link talking about grooving and other stuff http://www.somender-singh.com/ If anyone out there can think of anything to help improve the performance of a 1.8 engine, please share the info. crazy mabe but working on it might be fun.

I live in Grafton North Dakota. I'm a transplant from North Carolina.

I looked at what you said about the idle control valve and checked on prices. I got desperate then, they are outragiously high. I went back to some other posts and found one where they suggested unhooking the battery for awhile. This would make the computer relearn the car. Well it worked the idle is still low but no dyeing out at all even with a full load a/c, high beams, raidio, and fan running. Do you know what the rpm idle should be on this thing? Is the idle screw receased on the passenger side of the intake body? Thanks for the suggestions, I figure if I keep working on the kids cars someday I will know what I'm doing Bob<><

My daughter just picked up a 1993 Loyale 4 dr 3sp AT. I am at a dead end. When she stops it idle downs and dies, like when you let the clutch out to fast but its and auto. I have replaced plugs, wires, rotor, rotor cap, gas filter, and, PCV. All of this started when I replaced the air filter it was totally clogged but shortly after she starts dieing. Not sure if its related, anyone have any ideas. I don't know what the problem is. Runs fine when moving. Checked all vac hoses could not find any loose. Thanks for help Bob