mitch184

Does anyone konw the torque spec for the axle nut. i just uded a chisel and a big hammer to get it pretty tight. Everything was put back together right and I even had my friend at les schwaab press the new bearings in.

I just put a new front driverside wheel bearing in about two weeks ago and it is already making bad sounds and seems to be blown out. I was thinking that the half shaft is crap and i just found a tear in the boot. Assuming that I put the wheel bearing in correctly, is there much else it could be besides the half shaft? thanks

I just wanted to add that I did use CRC Copper Weld block sealer a couple months ago because i did find the white/yellow creamy stuff on top of the oil cap. I was wondering if the copper weld might have clogged things up. I did follow the instructions very carefully and didn't use too much. The radiator was very low and i'm pretty sure the cap is shot because since last time i added coolant, the overflow tank filled up, but never emptied back into the radiator. I filled the radiator back up full and drove on the freeway. It still got up to 5 bars, then when i turned on the heater, it jumped up 2 bars at one time. Then when i shut it off, it dropped back down 2 bars after a couple seconds. I'm real confused with this situation. I'm going to get a new cap to see if that helps.

my turbowagon has ran with 4 bars on temp for a year straight. Never got more than 5 at anytime. Now whenever i turn on the heater or fan, the bar goes up to 5 and sometimes 6. when i turn the heater off, it slowly drops back down to 4 but sometimes it doesn't. When i first drive it around in the mornings i hear this bubbling/cavitating noise coming from the motor when i rev it up. Then today with the heat off, It got up to 5 bars on the freeway driving normal. (a first). I just flushed the system about a month ago. I tried to burp it the best i can but am not sure if i did it right. Anyone else ever had this problem?

thanks for the advice. the dipstick looks fine so i'll try running the motor with the cap off. thanks again, just wanted to make sure that coolant isn't getting into the oil.

I have noticed some yellow/brownish cream that is forming on the underside of the oil fill cap. There is also some waterish clear liquid accompanying it. I have an 87 turbowagon. I have the mechanical and electric fans. The digital dash is all working and the motor never gets above 4 bars. I also have a 180 thermostat. It seems to get worse when i only make short trips. I'm assuming that the oil temps aren't high enough to bake out all the condensation. What should i do to cure this or is it really that bad? Any one else have this problem?

i just finished putting my exhaust my 87 turbo wagon. I have 2 in. downpipe and 2 in. exhuast all the way back. No cats or muffler anywhere. The spool up time is crazy. I get 10 psi around 2000 rpm. Full boost 12 psi. around 2100. Boost starts coming in good around 1600. Its awesome. I do get boost creep up to about 14 psi though. It is not terribly loud. Sounds great at a low 600 rpm idle. Only downside is compression braking. It is quite loud and filled with popping, cracking, and a few backfires. All in all it is a liveable sound and the performance difference is great.

Just another little tid bit, but discs are a lot lighter weight and might relieve some stress on the rear half shafts.

From what i've picked up and had experiences with, drums tend to get mud inside them and gum up the spings,shoes and internals of drums. That happened on my 89 GL Wagon a couple times. My knew 87 wagon has discs and they are pretty selfcleaning. Discs lose a little stopping power in the mud, but not nearing as much that is lost by having gummed up drums. And all you have to do to clean them is take a hose to them. Discs all the way. That's just my 2 cents.

There's a turbo wagon in the lynnwood pull-a-part that still has the rear swaybar and rear control arms if anyone in the area is looking to upgrade their handling. It looks like the shocks were already taken off and it might be pretty painless. There were were two wagons with sway bars but, one ended up on my car. Hope that helps.

The buttons for my heater, bilevel, defrost, etc. got jammed so when i tried to take them out, everything broke. The whole shebang fell apart. Has anyone experienced this or have any words of wisdom and how to reassemble this stupid mess.

I just made a new catless downpipe for my 87 turbowagon. I have not yet bolted the two turbo/downpipe heatshields back on. I was wondering if it is completely necessary to have those heat shields. Are you guys with custom downpipes running them? I don't want to hook them back up but also don't want to hurt anything. Any thoughts?

Actually i have a 5 speed. I'm running 175/80 13's right now. I also have some 185/80 13 snow tires but they seem to bog the motor down.

I've got an 87 turbo wagon with a pretty tight motor. I run mobil one and have never had any cooling problems. i was wondering what's the max rpm's to pull SAFELY for extended periods of time. When i cruise about 60 mph, my vacuum is about 9 in. , but when i cruise at 70 it jumps to about 11 in. 70 is also about 3500. Does anyone else get about the same vacuum readings and how fast does everyone else cruise.

Yeah, i was kinda figuring that a turbo motor would be best to start with, but I've got a non turbo motor in perfect shape and and easy access to av gas. I think av gas is rated around 130 octane but i'm probably wrong. Each masserati turbo is a little bit smaller than a subaru turbo, so boost probably!? wouldn't be too high. How important are having the dual port heads?