bpm

if there is a groove on the crank, the easiest way to repair this is to use a speedi sleeve. just measure the crank with verniers and order one from your local parts shop. very easy to fit.

jeez, you must have a pretty clean brat (or wagon), good luck with the set screw method, that aint guna work. the tube isnt thick enough to tap a thread into mate, spose you could weld some nuts onto the tube for a thread but i guess that might be a little too "ghetto" for you. i didnt know they had TIGs in the ghetto...

ok, after trying the drill a bigger hole and bolt method, and then the cut a slot in the tube method, slop came back after a couple of days. so i got the shts, fitted a new selector shaft seal and welded the thing solid to the selector shaft. solid as a rock now, and you can still remove the shift lever if need be. only prob is going to be if i have to remove the rear housing of the box, but with the box out cutting the welds off will be easy.

i have done this conversion not too long ago. some people say you dont have to touch the frame rails but i found i had to massage them with a hammer. the engine fitted without doing this but touched when the motor rocked on its mounts when running. if your gonna lift it you will definetley have to cut and shut the rails to clear the cambelt covers. cut and strengthen the crossmember to clear the exhaust crossover pipe. i used the original dr 4speed so i dunno about the 5 speed conversion.

ive done a few piston swaps without splitting the block. getting em out is easy. getting em back in requires lots of patience and a piece of welding wire to lift the conrod up through the piston pin hole. grinding a small chamfer onto the piston pin also helps.

with the engine warm and the valve open, it will idle at about 2.5krpm:eek: . you will have to screw the idle down at the throttle body, but then it still wont idle when cold.......

it should be full open with the engine cold. it should slowly close over about 3-4 mins with 12v hooked up. the heat from the thermostat housing helps it shut too, but with just 12v hooked up it should be completley shut within 10 mins. if it doesnt move at all it is stuffed.

yep, just dug out the invoices, its an auto 1 part no.,GROUP 16 PART NO. 910C.

hey there, if ur in aus, you should have no problem finding a boss kit to suit and ea81. i have done a few and have just fitted a momo wheel to my brumby. got the boss from auto 1 in nsw.

hey fellas, just purchased a td04off an 03 wrx. just wanted to see how much laggier they are compared to the rhb5 on these engines (ea82t). anyone that has done the swap care to comment?

i can give u the pulse widths and timing settings from my 82t but im running a microtech, any help?

ok, forget the dyno debate, i fitted 9.5:1 pistons to my ea82t. i am running 15psi through an rs liberty cooler using stock injectors, a ford f250 fuel pump and an aussie Microtech engine management ecu. these run a map sensor only (no air flow meter) and has fully programmable fuel and ignition curves versus rpm and engine load. my wot afrs are at a nice and safe 12.2:1 as measured by wideband all the way to 7000rpm where the stocko rhb5 turbo is well out of puff. Power? buggered if i know or care, it goes ok for what it is. i have seen 10.5:1 engines run upto 20psi on our 98 octane fuel safely, make sure you have good intercooling and run the best engine management you can afford. its all in the tune.

rally cars hae antilag, off the throttle on decel, air is injected into the exhaust manifold and the injector open time is increased. when the unburnt fuel reaches the exhaust manifold it mixes with the fresh air it ignites, expands and spools the turbo (and creates very bloud backfiring). these things can make 6-7psi boost on decel. i have found with old ea81s and 2s if the idle mixture is lean u will get backfiring on decel. try winding ur mixture screw in a bit, not 2 much or it wont idle well. im usually doing the opposite, most people dont like decel backfiring.

i used an efi pump from a ford f250 as it had the 8mm sized intake which makes things a hellava lot easier. screwed it up under the tray in a coil bracket and ran a wire through the chassis rail up to the front where i used a relay to switch it. the only prob doing it this way is that the brumby return line is tiny, not really big enough for an efi car. you can run a new one in fuel hose, just make sure its well protected and secure.

sorry, already posted