DaveT

Ah, the only button 4wd I've seen are automatic. The standard shift cars had a lever.

Here are pictures. Close up looking into plug hole. The wires are powering an LED to help see inside. EA82 head, one Freeze out plug removed:

I have not experienced that problem. I do have a couple of 3ATs with over 200,000 on them. The button fires a solenoid that routs ATF to the clutch to activate the rear drive. The pressure to that clutch also activates a switch that lights the light.

I can try to get some pics tonight.

The plugs I am writing about are not external. They are in the space under the rocker covers.

I've seen freeze out plugs on the blocks of other engines. I don't see any external freeze out plugs on my EA82 blocks. There are 3 plugs that look like freeze out plugs in the top of EA82 heads. I have a cracked head here, I can pull them out to be sure they close off coolant passages.

Oh, those are probably different. EA82s use really small bulbs.

@ mikaleda, I suspected there were some in that location. There are 3 on EA82 heads. I never had an EA81, but figured they were similar.

There are a few freeze plugs on each head. Those could allow oil and coolant to mix. I have not had that failure mode. Not sure if there are any in the block. No oil passage in the intake.

The mixed oil and coolant is most likely blown headgaskets or cracked head. Only 1 headgasket may be blown. Or both. No easy way to tell. Doesn't matter anyway, as what ever caused one to fail likely damaged the other. My experience has been this - run over normal temp with low coolant - even a little low - you will have blown headgasket /s. Sooner or later. Usually sooner. The intake cannot cause oil and water mix.

Should be a big plastic cover under the steering wheel about over your lower legs when driving. Remove it. Engine error led is visible in a hole in the ecu box, mounted to the bottom of the steering column. Count the long blinks and the fast blinks. That is the 2 digit error code.

Do you have a manufacturer / part number for the pre made ones? How do they compare to the stock lighting?

This is my experience with cold and shifting. It was a long time ago, with my 1976 4WD 4speed. Really stiff making that first shift or few. By the time it would move from 1st to 2nd, I would almost want to be back in first, the car slowed so much. I put Amsoil synthetic gear lube in the gearbox. Used the normal weight recommended in the Subaru manual. Never had the problem again. Temperature made had no effect on shifting any more. Never had a transmission problem with that car, made it over 250,00miles before the body rusted in half. I've been using their synthetic ATF and gear lube ever since. I experienced a similar effect with the 3AT transmissions - temperature has no effect on shifting after switching to their synthetic ATF. The single transmission / diff failure I have had in about 30 years of driving Subarus was due to the gear lube running low on one, and the pinion bearing failing. [slow leak, and I overlooked checking frequently enough - D'oh!]

Other bar with boot.... Tie rod? Those should not be having play. steering wheel jiggling in a narrow speed range has always been tire balance / bent rim or combo of the 2 for me.

Here is my web page with details. http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

Got tired of the dim / burned out lights for the Rear Wiper switch.

The EGR trouble code is caused by the solenoid failing open circuit. The solenoid controls the EGR valve . The ECM has no way of monitoring the egr valve. The OEM solenoids always fail. I replace them with ones from Toyota.

If the head gasket / s blown to the cooling system, [most likely way for them to fail] you will get exhaust gasses pumped into the cooling system, bubbles in the recovery bottle.

Added a relay to the starting circuit on my 1987 GL. No more turn key, click, no crank.

If you have a GL / Loyale 86-93 I can look it up.

What year & model, etc? I have & know GL & Loyale wagons. 86-93 Not too many connectors that you can mix up, if you match colors, and colors of wires. There is no substitute for a FSM.

I would sometimes get a CEL flash with mine. The problem is that the sensor isn't necessarily going out of a valid range, it's just lying.

Sounds like the beginning of my story in the intermittent idle thread a few more down from this one.

I never thought of that... I have enough donut tires to do that. But, no I won't because I'm not going to sTay under 55 on the highway. I but the rpms will be higher for a given speed as they are significantly smaller diameter.

I never thought of that... I have enough donut tires to do that. But, no I won't because I'm not going to sTay under 55 on the highway. I but the rpms will be higher for a given speed as they are significantly smaller diameter.