jono

H.m.mm found I have the zinger 41 mm outlet on my abortion of a crossover pipe I wonder if the underside of the turbo is size matched between the two generations? The awd might dull the response of the larger bore zinger pipe because this engine does not rev out too easily like my other one did in my part time 4wd GLTA. I hated it. Was too quick. This might explain 130 in third the other day when dealingpass hole - I liked it then ! It has been pointed out to me that the later turbo also had solenoid control on the wadwaste gate. I don't have any controller on the waste gate though this engine likely did in its original body. I think for differences sake the smaller 1985 style 36 mm orifice cross over needs to go in. Done. Decided. Now for some action

A big thank you to the turkey who repaired 3 threads with coils and left the fourth stud hole to cause me issues Same turkey used gaskets without fire rings and not very generougenerous amount of gasket material

Come inside for a break while spilled coolant dries up to allow me to crawl about under ute without getting too wet. I hate the taste of coolant

Thanks mate but not before host site homeland hits it eh? I have this gremlin that starts ifI allow auto correctcorrect Look! See? I use auto correct option sometimes doubles up and cursor jumps back or forth

And you still have single port intake to heads?

Early first series turbo only pump out 120 psi on comp test. Don't think it is specified any different for second series but my second series turbo has 150 psi using same gauge as early model test. So, a comp above 150 would delete concept of turbo pistons on board

I have replaced hvla twice and resolved the tick. Never needed to replace the oil pump to fix the noise. Mizpah will will reco your lifters for peanuts. I think our oz market can still supply new hvla. My 87 carb block has hole threaded for knock sensor which came in handy when I fitted knock control equipment to it. An NA mpfi block will also have hole threaded

Flippin' heck ! 20 different exh pipe centre assy's (rssentiessentially the cat) 20 ??!!

Flippin' heck ! 20 different exh pipe centre assy's (rssentiessentially the cat) 20 ??!!

Got a Gremlin Cant quite decide Maybe the big Zinger?

P437 3-M09 Exhaust system for turbo Item # 26 Exhaust pipe f assembly 44101GA130 85&86 all three holes about 35mm inside diameter. No O2 sensor hole 44101GA160 87 onwards Hole under turbo ranges 40 & 41 mm I unknowingly once fitted the 160 to what had the 130 smaller diameter. It sort of flew to 6500 in no time at all which wasn't too bad, but I was used to riding the torque curve with a little more control over a little more time. Was happier to return to smaller diameter Now recall my 87 AWD Vort also sports the smaller diameter so parts manual may not reflect actual in all markets. The 160 larger orifice pipes also sport an O2 sensor port and sensor What models had sensor here? About to swap in one of thescan't quite decide and cant

In the sun at those temps is redickerless ...gets to about 55°C ...as it starts to cloud over iI get the idea of setting up the folding gazebo ! Might be a new years thing - get it done tonight. I have never had my helicoil repairs fail

Hey sparkyboy, you ever seen a Toyota Corona station wagon of early and mid eighties? They can be visually confused with EA82 L wagons. So EA82 styling is not as unique as EA81 body style don't you think?

Any red Mazda 626? Red not important but rwd is. at. Local wreckers? You need two ...one for you one for me tailshaft centre bearing cross member can be welded up to be excellent factory looking bolt to floor mount in Brumby

My notes say reverse switch lhs of box 4wd in is at the back at the top Low range rhs

While my box was out I pulled those switches out to test and adjusted one with an extra washer on installed when I found was not working in place. The MY body side connector reverse is green/white and green/ white - no typo! Lo range dash light is blue/ red. Earth is black wite

Thanks moosens but we are a little too far apart for you to help with supply. I have gaskets just lacking motivation ...got any of that? I need to tidy work area then prepare to start early in the cool of the day as getting high 30's C° at the moment

I have the real ones from std 13" rims if they'd what you want

Tested and found turbo sside head has stripped on exhaust stud. I am armed with that imperial stud thread upgrade - do the holes of manifold flanges need Oversizing? Also have helicoil kit in 10..1.25 Also have original asbestos filled gaskets with fire ring as well as perforated with fire ring May try big bore 42 mI have up pipe i Phone is corrupted or drumk

I know it has been done just by removing studs and slide new gasket in and button it back together but given my christmChristmas present if blown gasket can bet threads stuffed too....

and some people enjoy the challenge looking for bits, and hey, the reward can be a car you rebuild can deliver 300 to 800,000km on that build if maintained. And survivability can depend on your intended usage too. If only postage to US was affordable (reciprocal even ! )- I have a hoard of EA81 heads and oil pumps spare valves, even have a few sets of pistons OS I agree with everyone the EJ is a more advanced engine, more power, more parts, more lard, probably more reliable and fuel efficient and if you can make one fit and work - even more rewarding. It is always going to be a case of do what you want, assess the info offered. I used to hate the EA82, love the EA81, but other way now and as it sits I have an EJ20 and its AWD 5MT sitting in a Brumby waiting for more motivation and investigation. The AWD 5MT from a 2.0 litre Impreza fits the trans tunnel better than EA82 five speed. The EJ looks like it belongs there. Plenty of EA81 bits in Oz for export except new oil pumps

my first conversion was using a 200mm clutch not the 225mm - a diameter shared by later EA81 and all EA82. I retained the 200mm pressure plate and used a petrol Gemini (Isuzu) 1.6 l friction plate that loosely fitted the five speeds input shaft and was 200mm but problem was the throw out bearing connected further out than desired 225mm style and always required pedal to floor to engage disengage. then next conversion involved an EA82 and I found EA81 pedal pulled 15mm measured at clutch fork end. An L clutch requires 25mm, an L pedal delivered - much better :)

Only when box is in and mounted with engine in place and engine tramp stay rod in correct adjustment do you make hole in trans tunnel about 25 mm tear of stick hole for that mount at rear of gearbox levers stay rod thingy

If you follow my method I can help. Retain the L box levers and use L console to suit or cut the other L console that does not suit. pedal box cut off Brumby cable mount to flush. 10 mm thick x 40 mm spacer block of alloy to mount L cable between cable and pedal box. Throw L pedal box away after snaffling clutch pedal and safety pin of brake pedal to push rod use this at pedal end of clutch cable. L cable is longer so Brumby cable too short. Be prepared to remove seats. Get string line. Know that output shaftof box rrear and tail shaft and diff flange is all not central in car