tunered

this sounds like it is starving for fluid,does it have a filter of any type?

im betting on high pressure blowing seals,cant be the trans fault.might be a pressure line going to radiator mashed not letting fluid circulate causing pressure build up,maybe way off base but the odds of two trans doing the same thing is very high.i would double check everything.

something smells here,first off if its a soc off one tooth i dont think you would have enough power to test drive,secondly you still have about the same problem you had with less money in your pocket.does it drive out better now,after the belt job?

unless im confused here the front dff. and the trans is two seperate items.the front diff should have gear oil,is this where you found the shavings?

if the trans fluid made it to the over flow,coolant should have made it to the trans,check transmission to see if it is milky.if not im taking bets on head gaskets. dont kill the messenger.

it seems odd that the rear brakes seem to take turns at getting hot at different times,i think i would also jack up the rear and have somebody apply the brakes and see if they are releasing.i cant imanagine not having any brakes when this happens,99 times out of 100 when you have to pump the pedal to get brakes its because of air in the lines,having said that when pressure builds from heat like you are saying that you think it is usally makes more brakes,not less. sometimes it feels like brake fade at its worst but usually you have pedal. kinda stumped here. let us know how it goes.

i dont think thats it,your parking brake does not use the same pads as the rear brakes,even tho heat might transfer that far but i dought it.i would think you would notice dragging brakes,will it coast on a slight grade?im taking bets that there is air in the system. even if it was what you think,i dont think it would effect the front brakes so much as having none.i think a good bleeding would be my first task plus look for leaks around the wheels and under car.

good to hear it went well,keep us updated.

more than likely coolant blowing into cylnder not letting plug fire= no power.does oil have a milky look? radiator was cold because no coolant had been running thru it for a little while,the hoses were warm from the block heat.

chef, i had a set of goodyears that felt the same way,mushy steering responce and moved around alot in the wind, it was like driving on ballons. why dont you pump up the tires to maybe 35lbs and stiffen the sidewall and take a little drive,it will be a harsher ride on rough road but you will be able to tell if it is in the tires. i have had cars that the struts were wore out 2 years before i got the car and they did not drive all that bad on good road. just a thought .

forgot to mention that when you go in for the alingment have your gas tank filled to at least 1/2 full,and if you carry anything heavy with you while you drive leave it in the car too. let us know how it works out.

why would you run the engine while changing trans fluid? you more than likley scored the pump,it will probaly quit making that noise after it wears back in,but your line pressure will likley be low.

im betting that when you changed struts you raised the car some and created more positive camber[thats when the tires tilt out on top looking from the front of the car]this will cause your issues,also toe more than likley went more toe in.

the first thing you have to learn is to not let shops rip you off,dont know how long its been since they did the work but it would have been taken back if it was mine or never left their shop with the same noise for a thousand dollars. tell us a little more about the noise,only on the gas?how about when you are coasting?does it have the same sound in every gear?

isnt that the place where you put the hp chip? the one that gives you 450 hp with465 foot lbs of torque,at 42 mpg?

assuming the mech diagnosed the right thing,it could also be a wheel bearing in the rear,ask her if the noise gets worse while going around a turn in either direction.

tell us a little more,auto? standard? if its a 93 im guessing auto,and if it is try putting the fuse in the fwd holder and see if that does anything for it.

i have always found that a lifter that has bled down from sitting will pump back up faster if you start the engine and shut it off,do this 6-8 times in a row and just let it run for about 5 seconds at a time.

whats the chance of a wrong crank sensor? would a completly plugged cat cause this?

the same button that activates the overhead light also works the seatbelt,its in the door jam. you might tape it,or if the door is coming close you might tape a coin to the door to make it contact the switch.

the fuel pressure regulator keeps fuel pressure from being to high,if the injectors are weak and the regulator is bad i guess the extra pressure could possibly flood the engine,other car brands that i have worked on with the vaccum hose off only raised the pressure 3-5 lbs so i really dought that this is the problem.

a oil filter might cause a tick at startup but not after pressure has built up,i would bet that the springs in the lifters are wore out. i think you have done everything that could be done to a good lifter,your pressure is good,you have cleaned everything,so that only leaves the lifter at fault.

if your battery had a decent charge when the alternator went[assuming it did] it should still run till the battery went low,is the battery still charged?

this is more than likely rotor warpage,at slow speed you dont really notice it unless it is real bad,under heavy braking it acts the same. this is not a major job to do your self but im not sure about being covered.

that;ll be an extra $250.00 for parking in the handicap area. i saw the handicap sign and had to say that,nice car.