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rocksnap

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    rocksnap

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  1. no preventive maintenance to speak of as far as replacing the tensioner. i would think the only thing related to this you could do is oil changes but even that may not be any good. once it fails..............
  2. Sounds like it could be the AMM and/or the ECU engine temp sensor. When cold these cars run primarily off the AMM. As they warm up the transition to O-2 sensors.
  3. I have a 2001 Outback 3.0 with the H-6 EZ30 engine. At about 81,000 miles the engine developed a tic most noticed primarily in the 3000 rpm range. This was diagnosed as the Cam Chain Tensioner by myself and the dealer. Luckily this car was under a short 30 day NY state used car warrantee. The selling dealer was responsible for the repair. For a tensioner this was no easy repair. A 1 - 1 1/2 day job with a half page list of part and something like 102 bolts to remove. All was no charge to me but you can imagine this would have easily cost $1000 - $1500 for parts and labor. I have replaced the chain tensioner on a 85' Saab 900. The origional design only applied tension via hydraulic (oil) pressure. The later design has a one way ratchet mechanism that was also hydraulic but with the ratchet would allow only extension. If/when the hydraulic seal was lost the tensioner would stay extended. The time to swap the tensioners? 15 minutes with a simple socket and ratchet. Also on the H6 engine. The water pump is apparently buried in the engine requiring an extensive tear down to replace (according to the dealer). I am not looking forward to that repair and am hoping for the water pump to last the life of the engine. Wish me luck!
  4. I have a 2001 Outback LL Bean H-6 which I just bought used at 81,000 miles. A few days after purchase the cam chain tensioner WAS making the noise. Thankfully, the dealer did repair it under my 1 month, 1 thousand mile warrantee all at no charge! At least a 1 1/2 day job the dealer tells me. There was a long parts list involved though I don't know what it would cost. I told them to replace the water pump as preventive maintenance as long as all was apart since I figured it would be small potato's labor wise to do so. Well, they didn't replace it. I was told there was much more involved for the water pump. Much more engine disasembly involved if not engine removial! Tell me it isn't so. I pray I don't EVER have to replace the water pump.
  5. Follow up to my cam chain tensioner noise a few posts back. I have a 2001 Outback LL Bean H-6 which I just bought used at 81,000 miles. A few days after purchase the tensioner WAS making the noise. Thankfully, the dealer did repair it under my 1 month, 1 thousand mile warrantee all at no charge! There was a long parts list involved though I don't know what it would cost. I told them to replace the water pump as preventive maintenance since I figured it would be small potato's labor wise to do so. Well, they didn't replace it. I was told there was much more involved for the water pump. Much more engine disasembly involved if not engine removial! Tell me it isn't so. I pray I don't EVER have to replace the water pump.
  6. I have on 01' LL Bean with the 3.0 H-6, 81,000 miles on it. This is my first Subi. I bought it from a dealer 2 hours away with a 30 day/1000 mile "Lemon Law" warrantee. Well, I only drove it a couple days when it started to develop some engine noise at 2100 +- 200 RPM. Initial diagnosis from an independant 16 year Subaru mechanic is one of the two cam chain tensioners (one for each side/cylinder bank). I have it at a local Subaru dealer for additional diagnosis. If this is correct I hope the selling dealer will let the local dealer do the work. I am told it is no small job. Much of the front of the engine has to be disassembled to reach the chain tensioner. I am hoping this is an isolated problem. The H-6 hasn't been around long enough to have a track record/history. Wish me luck.
  7. I have on 01' LL Bean with the 3.0 H-6, 81,000 miles on it. This is my first Subi. I bought it from a dealer 2 hours away with a 30 day/1000 mile "Lemon Law" warrantee. Well, I only drove it a couple days when it started to develop some engine noise at 2100 +- 200 RPM. Initial diagnosis from an independant 16 year Subaru mechanic is one of the two cam chain tensioners (one for each side/cylinder bank). I have it at a local Subaru dealer for additional diagnosis. If this is correct I hope the selling dealer will let the local dealer do the work. I am told it is no small job. Much of the front of the engine has to be disassembled to reach the chain tensioner. I am hoping this is an isolated problem. The H-6 hasn't been around long enough to have a track record/history. Wish me luck.
  8. New Subi owner here with an 01 OBW H-6. I am going to replace my AT fluid with Red Line Synethic along with the diff's. Is there a need to bring it to a tranny shop to adjust the bands while the AT pan is off or should I just go ahead with the fluid change which I can do myself? I have combed the threads here and did not find any mention of getting a AT tuned up beyond a fluid change and/or filter swap.
  9. You can not go wrong changing to a synethic in any of the lubricated internal parts engine, tranny, dif's etc. I did a partial AT fluid swap on a SUV which wsa about 1/2 the fluid it held. Before the swap the center console would get warm enough to melt a choclate bar. After the swap, no more melting! Why did this happen? Less friction along with better heat shedding capabilitles! I just bought an 01' OBW and will be swapping out the tranny (Dextron III), front/rear dif's (75W90) with Redline Oil, a full synethic which I have been using for years with awesome results. I will also be swapping the engine oil with Castrol full synethic which I get CHEAPEST at any BMW dealer for $4.50 a quart. It was $4.00 a quart until a short time ago. I will also swap out the tranny spin on filter which can be bought at the dealer or online a several Subi parts sites. My only question is do I have a tranny shop drop the pan to see if any band adjustments need to be made. Otherwise it is a pretty streight forward job that I can easily do myself. Any help with that question? For a AT filter see subaruwrxparts.com Filter is $25 there
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