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crazyman03

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crazyman03 last won the day on July 28 2018

crazyman03 had the most liked content!

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About crazyman03

  • Rank
    Frost
  • Birthday 09/17/1985

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.frost.solutions
  • Skype
    justin.frieze

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lakewood, CO
  • Interests
    computers, Subie, Off-Roading
  • Occupation
    Webmaster; Network Engineer
  • Vehicles
    '09 Forester, '98 VW Golf 2.0

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  1. I pulled it's dipstick (definitely gear oil in this one) it's looking pretty full. Considering I checked it on my inclined driveway.. Back to the drawing board. -Justin
  2. I'm working on a my wife's 2009 Forester. 180k automagic. I've noticed a bit of what i would call gear noise while driving. The easiest i can describe it is the sound of knobby tires on pavement. its not *terribly* loud however it is noticeable. the sound doesnt appear to speed up or slow down depending on speed. Neutral doesn't change its pitch. I also dont have anything special in terms of tires - just all-weathers. I checked the transmission dipstick and it was about half a quart low so i topped it off with the spiffy ATF-HP that is recommended for it. The noise seems to have gotten a little quieter but idk if its just a placebo or not. i feel like this is a silly question but - the ATF covers the front dif, no? -Justin
  3. I had thought about that. It doesn't make a sound when jacked up. As far as location, it sounds like passenger front.
  4. I really dont have a better way at describing this so.. here goes. My wife's '09 forester started a loud burrrrrrr/buzzzzzz sound when backing up. It kind've sounds like the sound you would get when low on power steering fluid except it only happens when in reverse and regardless of actually moving. Yes, I have checked my fluids and am not low on power steering or brake fluid. I ran into this sound once before on a buddy's car that ended up going away when we did a caliper swap on all 4. Any ideas? Braking is fine, pads are fine, fluids are fine. it just does it when in reverse only. Ideas? I'll try and get some audio of it later edit: i just tried to get the sound to record and it didnt do it unless i was moving in reverse so, scratch the whole not moving part. -Justin
  5. When you "get on it" and the engine revs down - it'll rattle. I've had rod knock before on another vehicle, it sounds the same. GD, I didnt think of going that route - I'll defiantly keep that in mind. Rock auto has a whole longblock for 2600 after core, maybe worth going that route and getting the whole thing reman'd? -Justin
  6. When you say this, do you mean you did a passthru under the seat? or that you ran your speaker wires for your new amp to behind the head unit? If you have a factory amp for your car - the speakers will all go to the amp, not the deck. If you ran your after market amp wires to behind your deck (to the would-be speaker wires) you werent actually driving your speakers by your amp. What you'll want to do is check the wire diagram. If you have a factory amp, Likely you will have 4 sets of wires (Front L/R and Rear L/R) from the deck to the amp, then (from the amp) you will have another 4 sets of wires (Front L/R and Rear L/R) that are outputting from the amp to the actual speakers themselves. Those wires (on the harness side, NOT the amp side) that are going to the speakers are going to be where you actually want to attach your amp wires to. The 4 sets fo wires that are going from the Deck TO the amp - you will want to use those leads (harness side) FROM the deck to drive your amp - Hi-input - NOT RCA. If you do want to do RCA you will want to get a line converter to go from High Input to Low input. otherwise you will clip. -Justin
  7. Yeah, I figure its HG - I'm just not looking forward to doing it. I think i have a bit of rod-knock chatter so i'm debating just pulling it and doing an overhaul. She needs timing done so with all of the above i might as well make a party out of it. @ShawnW, you wanna take a "crack" at my motor? lol I've heard bad things about splitting the block and not mating it right again. -Justin
  8. Common guys, Lets not get on someone because they didnt make make a purchase you would have. This is USMB - There are tons of things we do on here that some other "sane" person wouldnt dare do, yet here we are with our jacked up Subaru's. He made his purchase based on what he thought was right for his budget at the time. I rock 200$ lowering coilovers on my VW that everyone told me (after the fact) were a horrible purchase and I absolutely LOVE them -Justin
  9. lol not 10 quarts - no. Since it has leaked a bit i topped it with maybe an extra half quart or so. Rookie, sure but since it leaks a bit i wanted a bit more time before i had to top it off. It doesnt leak a whole lot but never had a problem topping it off a bit like that -Justin
  10. Understood. I'll try the Pressure switch first then the solenoid if needed. So you think that the fact that i have a bit too much oil in there is likely unrelated? -Justin
  11. I do have an oil leak but its the HG/Valve covers. the AVLS do you mean the pressure switch that the code refers? Looks like theres one by the oil spout and a matching one on the Passenger Side? Edit: The sensor that the P0026 refers to is "Intake Valve Control Solenoid". GD, i see that part is all of 2 bucks - i'll def. look into replacing it alongside. Any thoughts on the Valve control solenoid? -Justin
  12. So I just did the oil on my wife's Forester over the last weekend and after doing it it started sputtering/shuttering when you let off the gas. Never got a code just acted weird. Welp, it finally threw a code - P0026. It was running fine up until the oil change. What are the odds that it the Pressure switch that the code refers to? I also noticed that i topped it off a bit too much on the oil - I was thinking maybe draining a bit out? Thoughts? 2009 Forester 200k. -Justin
  13. *waves* Welcome to the forum, btw. -Justin
  14. I typically run new wire so that If i decide to pull everything and go back to stock I'm not ripping the dash apart to make the radio work again with the stock unit Theres also the argument of the wire in the car being 12-14GA. But usually it boils down to ^ -Justin
  15. Ah. Typically I dont have issues running wire down the side. You can pull the side down a bit if you feel its tight - should have enough room. Easiest route would be to run both your fronts forward and cut the right channel across the dashboard. I'd do the rears a similar way except I'd run across either under the bottom of the back seat or behind the hinge of the back of the seat. -Justin
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