hassey

http://www.kbb.com http://www.carfax.com hassey

Bridgestone Tire Company Of America Corporate ofice 2000 West 190th st Torrance, Ca 90504 213-320-6030 District Offices 810 east 233rd St carson, Ca 90745 213- 518-2140 2210 N.E. Riverside Way Portland, Or 97211 508-288-9321 4023 West hollow Park Dr Huston Tx 77082 713-496-5843 South Middiesex Ave South Middiesex industrial Park, Cranbury, NJ 08512 201-521-4300 Bridgestone toll free number 1-800-621-5199 for Illinois the number is 1-800-972-5855 Every time I replced my tires on the brat Befor the Mod Discount Tire allways had the same Bridgestone tires See what a person can come up with when he keeps all the pamplets and owners manuel and window sticker when you buy A Brat Brand new right off the show room floor with just 6 miles on it Hassey

http://www.carfax.com last time I used carfax account a year ago the first time was free for one car and you got the full report. it's only $29.00 a month and you can research as many as you like not a bad price. As for the 5 or 6 important records found in the database could be anything from an accident to it passing emisions or failing emisions to a lien on the title to a salvage title, to title transfer The reports the were posted above are incomplete other wise there would be a discription of thoes 5 or 6 important records telling you what they consist of Hassey

Motor and tranny stay in the same spot. they are not drop nor are they lifted with blocks. You have no other choice but to do welding on a prodject like this the steering shaft well need to be lenghtend same goes for the shifter and the hi/lo shifter, they all needs to be lengthend Hassey

If your looking for a AM/FM CD player for your Brat for a fact and with out a dout, Pioneer DEH-1500 same as DEH-15 will fit as will as the Pioneer DEH-P3100 same as DEH-P31 both have detachable faces They will fit as long as you do not mind looseing the ashtray. It will mount in the same spot as the original radio is Take the console out and use a jig saw and cut that section out leaving a 1/2 bourder on all 4 sides cut 1/16 sheet metal to cover hole and cut opening so CD player sleve will slide into it line up new face plate you just made and drill holes in the 4 corners use pop rivets to hold in place use scrap metal for backing to prevent pop rivets from pulling out cover with matching vinyl insert the CD player and follow the instruction on the wireing if you go this route you don't need to worry about the wireing harness I have 2 = 5 1/4 200w speakers in the front one under the steering colum (Yes theres room and it will fit) cut a hole in the plastic shroud under the colum. And one just above the tray. again cutting a hole. And behind the seats there are 2 = 6"x9"s 200w and 2 = 6" 200w mounted in speaker boxes Hassey

That would be Me hassey

The bushwacker flares go over your fenders to extend the fenders for wider tires by about 4". I never heard of cut outs Hassey

They are 1989 Toyota Bushwacker flares. And thats the same as subarubrat used. The idea and the instructions came from me and my web site. And there are about $300.00 for a set of four I guess it also depends on what you are putting them on the 1989 bw flares match up pretty close to the conture of the Brat with just a little triming/notching. need to cut half tear drop shape on front fender flares so the doors will open The hatch and wagon will work too with a little more triming Hassey

Or better yet go to any auto glass shop and with out a dought they will fix you up. No more searching hunting, web searches, quick and simple. And even if you saw the type of topper you have on the web link above it really does not matter. it does not tell you what kind they are only a photo big deal. The auto glass shop or topper shop will still look at it and tell you what you need. Hassey

most of these were allready mentioned Gem Top, Snug Top, Lear, and the best of all toppers, Vista If all you are looking for is the weather strip any topper shop will fix you up. As all of that stuff is basicly universal for all toppers/caps for the most part they will still need to see the topper to match things up. I needed the latch for mine drilled the pop rivets out put the new one in only had to cut the bars to the right lenght. and now i have the keys as i did not before I Also got both new spring risres or what ever you call them for the hatch. now the hatch stays open when you open it no more broom handles. I have no idea what topper they came from and do not care it looks factory and works thats all that matters. So take it by the topper shop and they will have it you may have to cut it to the right size. Hassey

The seats realy weren't designed to be remove all though you can and a lot of people did and do. they were held in place with 4 bolts the nuts were welded to the frame, The bolts were speical clutch type heads I could never figure out what type so I drilled them out and replaced with regular allen key bolts. with out the handles that are part of the U bracket that GD told you about not much you can do in mounting them. Did you get the seat belt too? Ebay had a complete pair for sale bidding may still be going on this inclued the seat belt check it out I'm 95% sure that any year Brat will fit i'm sure some one will post on the other 5% if I'm wrong My game plan in removing the seats was to take out the wall between the cab and the bed so it would be a pass through. put a full roll cage in the cab an to the bed remount the frame and seats facing forward on 3/4 ply wood and with the topper I'd have a four seat SUV then i would just slide the plywood/seats (one piece) out if i need hauling room I would carpet it to match through out Hassey

Matt when you get tired of playing around with your car do your self a favor and go to the auto store and get your self G2P/Gaurantee 2 Pass they make it for both carb and fuel injected follow the instructions exactly as it tells you. its perfectly legal and they will give your money back if it does not pass It's about $8.00 what have you got to loose? Hassey

My brat Failed horrabliey too 2yrs ago i had to get a wavier even after tons of money on tune ups carb ajustments oil chages and a hole lot of stuff and it still failed every freakin time.; I got this stuff called Gaurantee 2 Pass or G2P or (you money back) follow the direction on the box Mine passed with flying colors You can find G2P at checkers or autozone or like stores I tell you this stuff realy works I talked to several people and they all either used it them self or know of some one that did Hassey

No it would not swing you'd pull a pin/bolt and it would slide out so you can open the tail gate but the arms would still be long enough that it would remain in the square sleeves this is what i'm builing for my brat but the appication will work on your Hatch or wagon like i said above i got the idea from the trailer hitches that you can see on all most any suv or truck the hitch slides out so you can replace with diferant sizes hithches or a bike rack or just remove for the winter but on mine the arms will be about 20 inches to 25 inches long so it will slide out just enough to open the tail gate Hassey

I just thought of an easrier way to decribe my idea above I know every ones seen those remove able trailer hitches that you can remove for either a diferant size, or to replace with a bike rack and what not. mines the same idea except i would double it with one on eihter side of the licence plate and i would use round tubing going in to the square so no matter what angle you need to join the two at the top it won't bind the tube going into the square will be about 20 inches long or so, and will just slide out and still stay in place so i can open the tail gate but i can slide it all the way out in needed Hassey

OK how this for a tire carrier this is the way I'm building mine 2x2 tubing about 39 in with 2 2/16 or 3/16 (L) brackets welded on the ends. on mine thats the measurements between the tow hooks in the rear drill a hole in the end of the (L) bracket so you can bolt it in place or you can weld it. take 2 2x2 tubing about 20 inch long and just so they just stick out on each side of the licence plate of the bumber (so that the end sticks out does that make sence?) and weld them in place then use 2 inch round tubing so that it will slide inside the 2x2 square tubing bend it in a (U) shape then on the side view bend it in a (L) shape. this is custom to your subaru but the idea is that the round tubing will slide in and out of the square 2x2 tubing weld the bracket to hold the tire drill 2 holes to keep from sliding in and out use 1/4 inch bolts or 1/4 pins hope this make sence to atleast a couple of you kinda hard to decribe Hassey

The link that Rooinator has on his site to my link will be back up and running shortly. I had takin it down and chage it for my birds and i'm in the proccess of putting it back togetther but now geocities is down and can't log on hassey

jonofscio Thanks for you input but, just to clear some things up for you. It was my lift, and My hub convertion, that I brought to the board of the idea of re-drilling the hubs. and there is no lip that needs to be sanded if your refering to those nibs on the back those do not have to be ground off either, it's ok if you do but its not nessasary mine aren't the lugs will still seat just fine trust me like i said re-drilling the hubs came from me. Hassey

Please tell me your not going to be one of thoses that drill the rim, instead of doing it, the right way and re-drill the hubs. Please please tell me it's the hubs, thoses rims are too nice to mess up. Hassey

Subaru shops and mechanics have been doing that for years, it's called a shift modification. The only thing thats done differant is the hozitional cut needs to go all the way accross not just half way. It very easy to do Ive done 4 of them but any subaru shop will charge about $60.00 to do it. but it's really a no brainer. Hassey

No bythesea by stock position i mean exactly THAT the engine and tranny never ever get moved either up or down it is excatly where fuji put it. and where it stays you have to extend the linkage for the shifter the hi/lo the streering the engine suport un hook the brake line in the front from there keepers Thank you mlkldom (Mike) for your input and suport glad it worked out for you subrubrat coppied mine to with no problems either Hassey

All you need to do is forget about the wires from the old radio and run new wires follow the instruction you got with the new pioneer and run them direct to the fuse box there are special little leads just for that purpose ( there flat and will slide right in between the fuse and the fuse clip) there at radio shack for 1.00 yellow wire will go to the clock or any fuse that suplies constent power with ignition off take the red wire and start touching in tell you find the fuse that supplies power that where you hook the yellow wire to the red wire can go to the radio fuse the blue/white wire is the power amp white white/black==left front green green/black==left rear gray gray/black==right front violet violet/black==right rear and of coures black ==ground hassey

By the sea Just let it go, it's very ovious you just do not understand just to clear it up, a lift does not lower the suspention it raises the body hince the words BODY LIFT hassey

Thats the whole idea of this lift is that the engine and tranny do and will stay in the stock postion you will have to extend the linkage both shifter and the hi/lo, engine suport, steering linkage. hassey

Adam It's nice to see that you remembered the lift on my brat just a couple things you missed. Counting the blocks from front to rear [1]=[2]=[3]=[4] there is a 5th block on the inside in between blocks 3-4 ----------------^ The double tubing on each side in the rear is a little over kill if you remember I have one in the center conecting both sides. And theres a 22" piece of 2x2 tubing coming straight off block [1]=== just under bumper and conected to the other side with a 36" piece of 2x2 tubing so that I have a complte sub fram all the way around the brat (that is the frame is sold on all 4 sides) Everyone this lift idea did come straight off from my Brat and I've been running this lift for 8 to 9 yrs now. And I ran a web site on how to build this for 4 yrs I have sence took it down. It's a lot of hard work but then again it's not brain sugery either Hassey