quantum500

I meant that it did not have the fuse in place to make it FWD. There is a place for it.

Easy there hotrod. I understand that "some" new parts may be required, such as brake pads, oil and oil filter. Hard parts will be used if I can get them. I have some 10 odd subarus in various states of repair. So I'm not a newb sub owner. I'm just here to get some sound advice to my questions. So I will ask them again. What kind of prices for the awd unit and what is the proper terminology when I ask. Out of the ten or more subs I have, only 2 are autos and they are not going to get parted out any time soon. Thanks in advance for any info anyone may have for me.

Thanks for the opinion on new vs used but you have realize this is a $300 car. I'm not the least bit inclined to put any new parts on it or in it. Can't I just take out the transmission support tilt the transmission down and replace the awd unit anyhow? Doese'nt sound like all that much of a hassle to me.

I take it that the awd is seperate from the tranny? What kind of junkyard prices should I be looking at and what terminoligy should I be useing when I ask around?

Bought a '90 legacy sedan for $300 looks to be a fairly clean car except that it doesn't have power to the rear. It is an auto, it is not fused. The drive line is intact and the diff seems to be intact. I jacked it up in park and spun one rear tire and it spins the drive line or the other rear tire. I've gone over the basics. What do I check next?

Again I didn't check I put them on at night at about 0 degrees out so I was kind of in a hurry. The hub center looks to fit perfectly. I have no balance problem. I have one that has a leaky tire so in the next couple of days I will post the numbers on the back.

Sorry I didn't give the offset. The wheels are GT specific so no not all grand am wheels will fit. In fact I doubt that any other GM wheels will fit. They also are running 205/55/R16 tires I didn't check the offset but it is very close and with that wide of a tire wheel combo I don't think it will be a problem.

Just found something that may be of intrest. I bought some snow tires that were mounted on grand am gt wheels cheap off of craigs list and found that they will fit any 5 hole suby pattern. Rare knowledge I tell you

How low is low? I just did a input shaft seal and it would hold just enough oil to touch the dipstick with the seal leaking badly. On your clutch wear question, is your clutch hydraulic or manual? Could of came out of adjustment to slip like that. Is it wearing on the little brass rivots? That is a usually a good indicator of a worn clutch. The snout? Do you mean the fingers that the throw out bearing come against? There has to be some wear there. That is what disengages the clutch when you push the pedal. Machining the flywheel is to get it back into spec if it is warped. Did you notice it jerking when you would engage it? If not and its not scored from the clutch going too far I wouldn't worry about that part of it. Good deal on the clutch kit by the way.

I have the parts, tell me exactly what you need and give me an offer.

So I got it back together but not in the car yet. Everything seems to work fine. No pics, sorry, wasn't that ambitious. Basic run down on how to do it. You have to get the center dif housing and the tail shaft housing off to split the transmission. They will stay together when you do this. The shift shaft goes through the center dif housing and must be disassembled to get them apart. You must take the end off of the shift shaft witch has a double roll pin set up. Thats the first one I have ever seen. Next open up the inspection cover on the center dif housing and remove the bolt out of the shift shaft the holds the detent foot. This will let the shift shaft slide completly out of the center dif housing. Once you get that off you will see the overdrive gear on the back of the transmission. On the bottom gear set there is a collared bearing that you must take the bolts out of. Next is all of the bolts that hold the transmission halves together once you get all of those apart you can split the transmission by tapping it with a rubber mallet. It comes apart with the dipstick side up and off and that leaves the gear sets and the front dif in the other side. Don't try the wrong side first or you will have gears all over the floor. When you reassamble make sure all of the bearing are seated on the appropriate stud and that you apply a very small amount of silocine around the mating surfaces, as there is no gasket. The hard part is getting the shift shaft back in the right place. First step is to slide it into the center dif housing and getting the detent foot on the shaft but not bolted on. Once you have that you can place the shift shaft into the shift forks and slide everything home. Bolt the center dif housing to the transmission and then set the detent foot up so you can bolt it to the shaft. That should get you back together. Make sure the shift shaft is locked into place and you can shift gears before you reinstal the transmission.

Has anybody taken a blown up 2.5 and put another series of heads on it? Say from a 2.2 or 2.0? The 2.0 heads are supposed to be the ticked, bumping compression way up and making the motor much more reliable. A good alternative for anybody out there that is having problems with your blow up special 2.5.

Oh I wouldn't say that. I live on my parents ranch and my mom drives a 87 gl wagon that has never been tagged for as long as she has owned cause it never hits pavement. It has had a very rough life and is almost ready to hit the 200k mark. It has had some pretty bad carb probelms. The accelorator pump is out of it and the vacum choke was causing major problems so I put a manual choke on it by running a lawn mower throttel cable inside. Almost double the gas mileage! Figure that one out. Still only gets a little better than 10. But it only goes 4 miles a day and never really gets out of third.

My tranny has 142,000 on it and I can't see that anything is wrong. Minumal amount of debri on the drain plug when I drained it. All gears are polished with little wear. I think the only thing that can really go bad and cause harm is bearings, and syncros. That is a whole different ball game though. Bearing failure is what most likely causes high mileage trannsmission whine. The transmission splits vertical unlike everthing else I have ever seen wich has a inspection cover on the top then some sort of tail housing that comes apart. To get the gear sets out you have to partial disassemble one of them and then slide them out. Not fun, and not how subaru builds their transmissions. Because of the vertical split design bearings have a more likley chance to spin. The bearings are machined with a small hole in the outer race that sits on a stud in the case to lock it into position. If the bearing gets too much resistance it breaks the aluminum stud off and spins in the case. Creating the noise from spinning and also changing the clearance between the gear sets wich really makes noise. Just some thing I noticed while taking mine apart. I think if you catch it quick enough you can replace the offending bearing and glue it back in the case with super glue or what ever you think might work instead of spending big money on a new transmission or cases. There are five seals in the whole transmission/center dif housing/tail housing. The input shaft seal, the two front axle seals,the shift rod seal, and the out put shaft seal. The input and the shift shaft being the ones that need disassembley of some sort to get to. The tail shaft seal can be done by only removeing the rear drive shaft. The front axle seals by removing the front axels. Thats about all I know. I'll try and update when I get a chance to work on it again. By the way its the shift shaft that is giving me trouble. It goes all the way through the center dif housing in to the transmission and has to be very carefully put back into place as you slide the two pieces back together. Lets just say a few curse words have been uttered in the presence of these two pieces.

I think they are all chickens! I know that those seals go out from time to time. I have heard of more than one transmission on this board making funny sounds or not shifting right. So the lack of excuses to open one up is nil. Further more where is the spirit of learning about how things work?

I actually have some good ones around that I could have swapped but for a seal?? I must be cheap or something but I think I can find much better use of those trannies than trading them off for a seal. I'll take some pictures of the hard part of disassebly and reassembly and post them up. I know one thing for sure, no one should be afraid to do it. I'm totally blown away that this big of a board has not one member that knows anything about the internals of a tranny!!

Really! Its quite easy. I have had a few full size truck trannies apart and these are a breeze compared. I think I have it figured out. Didn't have time to try it out today. Maybe I will post some info if anybody is interested in digging around in their trannies

Its only about 2 feet thick in the center, somebody really t-boned it. It still drove when I bought it though. I didn't go too far with it, only on the trailer. Still pretty impressive!

So nobody has had a tranny apart on here??

I always thought it would be cool to rig up something with the hill holder mechanism so that it was like the ulitmate security system. If the bad guy didn't know the secret switch the first time he hit the brakes he was done. Hahaha! Now that would be funny!

So I had a input shaft seal go out on me in a 96 OBW with 2.2 and manual transmission. Needed a clutch and timing belt so I tore a bunch of stuff out of my car all at once. Had lots of bonding time too Anyhow I'm putting the tranny back together and I'm not liking how the shift rod is sitting in the shift forks. It just doesn't feel quit right. I have the center dif house on the trans axle. Its just kind of sitting there with 2 bolts in it. I'm just not liking how it feels. Of course you can't really get a shift lever on it. It feels as if its not locking the shift rod into the apporpriate gear once you put the transmission into gear. Like it has potential to get in 2 gears at once. So my question is what is the stantard procedure for putting the center dif housing on the transaxle and getting every thing lined up so it works right. Any help will be appreciated.

Glad to become a memeber of the ultimate subaru forum. I have right now. A 96 OBW 2.2 five speed, 97 OBW 2.5 auto, 95 legacy wagon 2.2 five speed, a parts only 93 impreza, and a parts only 95 legacy. I try and trade them around fairly quickly. Usually isn't too hard in western colorado. Looking forward to getting to know every body.