RenaissanceMan

Bumpidy

Stubshaft issue isnt a problem for me, the tranny is apart, and I have a set of both turbo and non turbo stubshafts, I just need some lengths, cause I am redesigning the front suspension and kicking out the front wheels a few inches to compensate for camber problems.

Can someone please tell me the lengths of the front Axles on an EA81 compared to the EA82s? and are the EA82T axles really any stronger?? thanks guys -Mike

Adjusting camber on macpherson struts is a big pain in the arse, it gets even worse when you change suspension geometry like I did. one thing to check is I am not sure how BYB did their strut lift blocks, but they should have an offset from the top to the bottom, (that is if you want to keep the camber the same) and the offset should go "inward" of the vehicle, because of the steering axis inclination the struts are set at. IF the blocks have no offset to them and they are just straight up and down, you're just SOL because it will push the top of the strut out. Like mentioned earier, you have to slot holes and hammer away at strut towers or something...I have no experience with the BYB lift, so I dunno if they had that offset or not..

Can someone enlighten me on the "governor problem", aside from the one running this state? I also have an EA82 FWD 3AT, and mine will go into 2nd if you force it to. otherwise when its in drive, under normal acceleration, it goes from 1st, almost in second like its kidding me, and sorta "slurrs" into 3rd gear at 30 mph, which, provides very poor acceleration. If you go WOT goin on the freeway it will use second gear till about 55, but it sure seems eager to get in that damn 3rd gear.. -Mike

you might wanna make sure they put carb camshafts in it. MPFI turbo camshafts are also the same, but if they put in a motor/cams from a SPFI which is highly possible, then you have a lot more overlap than your supposed to. which at idle will also cause a lower vacuum resulting in less fuel... but more fuel at high RPMs... just my 2 cents... -Mike

ya, my subaru averaged at about 27 mpg as well, partially because I had that damn exhaust leak that messed with my oxygen sensor, and it was only a 3 speed auto so that thing was spinnin like a top at 75 mph. But in short, I am just happy I made it home and the car did too.

I would be interested when my beast is running, persay late fall early winter time? And I think somewhere closer to las vegas/az/death valley would be much easier for some cali people... utah is far away man..

Ok everyone, so I rolled into san jose, CA around 3AM monday morning, spent most of the day with my parents which I hadnt seen in forever, left around 9:45PM monday, and finally made it to Arroyo Grande, CA, around 1:15 in the morning. So I pulled out my calculator today and did some adding up, with the help of mapquest, etc.. For a grand total round trip of 1,870 miles. With, as some people know, a rather noisy exhaust. After driving that long you get out of the car and you can feel your head pulsating and cant hear much of anything. Brian, it was awesome finally meeting you, I hear some 4wheelin excursions in the future, Seeing as you are in a resonable distance. also btw, I have some WCSS6 pics to send you so you can post. Dave, Laurel, Mike (from portland), Austin, Danoi, Noah. Theres so many people I met this weekend and my lack of ability to remember names real well is hindering. You all were reall cool to hang out with. Well anyway, Awesome weekend overall. So who can top my milage round trip? (driven -noah, I know you flew in) Peace out people, and I'll see if I can make it up there sometime this winter in "the beast" -Mike (for those who dont remember who I am, cause I am usually rather quiet, I had the beat up blue 87 DL auto wagon that I drove up with the tigerstripe seats, and I had my friend brandon from SJ camping with me.)

Sorry guys, been extremely busy getting my transportation road worthy for such a long trip. I'll probably be leaving here thursday afternoon and be in the northern cali area on thursday night, and see where I end up friday morning anyone that wants to meet up with me somewhere in california, let me know by PM or email, or something... smoke signals from a fire.. rev your loud subaru engine in morse code... -Mike

Haha, this time I wont be a smart@$$. so anyway. It sounds like the speed sensor in the spedometer is fubar. at least I think on those carb models it was in the spedo... Time to check the FSM on where that little buggar is. Hope that can point you in the right direction.. -Mike

go down to the hardware store, and get a throttle control lever and cable, for a lawn mower. Mount the sucker on the console and attach the cable to the carburetor. boom, instant cruse control garunteed not to fail.

arch and GD, both quit it, you guys arent helping my post. So anyway I have heard about the 95 legacy piece before, however, I am a poor college student. I want to do something that I can either build or find in el junke (junkyard). I think I am just gonna do a little more cutting and welding, and maybe replace that rubber piece with a new one thats a bit stronger. my linkage might just need a darn support frame to keep things from twisting wrong. Thanks everyone for Ur input.

there will be no arguments in my thread thankyou guys.. arch and gd, you both have good points. As for me, I just want to stick with non power steering cause I want to be able to feel how much grip my front wheels have, and also its one less thing taking away crank HP, and gas milage, etc.. so ANYWAY, I was thinking I would have to shorten up the steer column to get a better angle. btw, for y'all, the lift is 100% homebrew, so I have no idea what the PK & OZ, 3 and 4 inch kit did Fox, I like your idea but I didnt want to put that much of a strain on that steering dampener by turning it off at some strange angle like that. any other inputs people out there?

I just had a question for those that have done this. What exactly do you people do to lengthen the steering linkage on an EA81? Yesterday I was at school and did some major fab work and still ran into a couple problems. I took the the double U joint piece used on ea82 cars, cut it in half, and lengthened it with solid rod and welding. Then I took the lower piece that bolts the the steering dampener and shortened that one about 3 inches, so I had two U-joints spaced about 6 inches or so apart. The problem I am running into is the top U-joint is too steep of an angle I guess and binds up a little whenever I turn the wheel over to the left. Mind you I am running 28" ssr's so I need my steering linkage to be "beefy", and no I dont want power steering either. of you people that have done this before, what exactly did you do? Thanks, -Mike

Hey guys, as reluctant as I am, I am probably gonna come up in my POS 2wd DL, cuz my monster wont be running by then. I'll be meetin y'all at the walmart parking lot probably friday night. Brian -we need to touch base -Mike

naw see, I just wanna get back the original subaru engine RPM to speed ratio, now that I am gonna have these monster tires on it. Also for those who run even larger, like 33s, compared to my 28's I wanna drop the final down to around 4.4 to 1, which will make my ride feel like it had the original 22 inch tires on it. I dont want to shred axles, Just make the car acceleration practical on the street not having to use low gear. Also save the clutch too. I was just gona stick with the 1.47 to 1 low gear out of the EA82 p/t 4wd tranny, and the full time aspect of the RX tranny. I believe the RX tranny also has shorter gears than the normal 5 speed too.

Hey ya'll, just thought I'd bring up that I have two transaxles split apart with me scratching my head trying to figure this one out at the other end. modefying the final drive and all. the ring gear is the easy part. modefying the pinion gear to fit a FT 4wd is the hard part. I was thinking about looking into aftermarket datsun 510 stuff to find the shorter gears actually.

No! you cant do that! that was my idea! I am in the process of doing that to my ea81 soob right now. Well anyway. I was gonna do that and throw an exo-skeleton roll cage over the whole thing. I'll let you know in about 4 weeks how it turns out

Thanks a bunch gravelRX, I'll go ahead and look into that. looks like they fit nicely in your car. MorganM: ya I have to agree that the ea82GL seats are more "rump friendly" however I need some seats that are gonna hold me in place as I am going ape$%!# on the sand dunes and whatnot -Mike

best economy mixture and best power mixture are slightly off from eachother. Your car is supposed to use stoichiometric, which would be around 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel (by mass). You can slightly improve power, but the fuel economy drops off, by going to a mixture of around 12.5 to 1 or so. Achieving exactly around that mixture is difficult with fuel injection, so if its overly rich, the unburnt fuel causes deposits. The reason it cant precisely obtain around that mixture is because first off your computer doesnt pay attention to your oxy sensor when it is cold. also your oxygen sensor isnt designed to give you a reading like that. The oxygen sensor is sorta an "approximation" for the computer. Its designed to give around .2-.3 volts when lean, and .8-.9 volts when it is rich (comparing to stoichiometric 14.7 to 1). so it doesnt have a very large range. basically anything richer than 13 or leaner than 16, isnt really measured. the computer just sees it as "rich" or "lean". Modern OBD2 fords or GM's, I cant remember, use a new type of oxy sensor that is more precise, and is measured by the computer in current, not voltage output So after all that. your problem might actually be your oxy sensor. Hook up a volt meter to it and a good ground when it is hot. at idle it should read .8 volts-ish. rev the engine up to around 2500 and hold it, and you should then see the voltage start to bump back and forth between .2 and .9 volts. if it doesnt, or the voltage is low, persay around .4 at the most, then something is wrong.

so I have these car seats, that need to go in the wagon, I am about to jump into it next week when I am at school, but is there anyone that has already done this and can point me in the right direction as to how easy/difficult the modification is? any pointers?

ok guys, this one isnt that difficult to mess with. What you do is disconnect the ect "engine coolant temp sensor" and replace it with a 5K variable resistor. This way you will at least be able to change the reading if you need to. When the resistor has a resistance of around 3K ohms the computer will think the engine is cold and dump more fuel in it. when its around 200 Ohms of resistance your computer will think the engine is warmed up. and so on for resistances inbetween. You can start making a scale to figure out your preferred setting. HOWEVER.. beforewarned that long term running at a rich mixture will cause your spark plugs to foul, deposits to build up in the combustion chamber, and eventually burn up and kill your cat if you still have it on there. btw, if there is only 1 wire on the sensor, connect the other end to ground. what you really might wanna think about is adding a switch to the wiring to be able to switch between the computer reading from the ECT, and your "modification" anyone that doesnt know anything about electronics and wants to be able to do this PM me and I can help further.

S'ko, thusday will work for me no prob. as far as your question to brian, I just have to say, we are in subarus... sleeping in the back at rest stops is what its all about!

That was me from Pismo. I am gonna do my best to get my car "moving". Driving my 2wd DL wouldent be nearly as fun as driving my monsterized 4wd GL, if I could get it running by then.... I might have to kill my plans for a backpacking trip if I cant get this forking car running in time. Brian, sorry I havent been online for a long time. Keep in touch, I'll see about meeting up with you somewhere along the excursion -Mike