chef_tim

There is no such thing as "sure prevention" when it comes to salt metal and rust. You might be able to slow it down a bit, but all it takes is a pin hole or a scratch and it is started. The only sure way to prevent rust is not drive it in the winter. My 92 S10 came from OK, has never seen a salted road and doesn't have a bit of rust. A lot to ask from that vintage of Chevy . Later, tim

I'm in the salt belt too and my 84 T-coupe wont see winter roads either. As long as you have another vehicle avilable I say keep that one nice. Later, Tim

That's about 400 miles from me, but a midwest meet would be very tempting. Keep me in the loop Shawn. Welcome to the mid-west, not so bad if you can live with out moutains.....

Welcome aboard, Mick and I and a few others have an annual camp out at Sailorville Lake. Alot of chill'n around the camp fire at night and well just more chill'n during the day . Later, Tim PS We always bring our 97 OBW down so you'll be in good company!!!

This web-magazine showed up on the Tire Rack Email. Might be ugly, but 0-60 in in 4.8 makes me feel kinda warm and fuzzy:grin: Later, Tim http://magazine.windingroad.com/windingroad/200802partners/?folio=1

That was my exact first thought. That would be concidered "rust free" out here . Tim

Store bought hood scoop, we don't need no stinking store bought hood scoop.........

Hows this......

I'll be in Toledo for a couple of days in February, anyone out that way???? Tim

Dawn dish washing soap and warm water, followed by windex to get rid of the soap film. Tim

welkom . There are a few others from your area on here already, if memory serves me. This is a great place to feed your Subby addiction. Tim

I was following your previous thread, I'm glad it looks like it will all work out. Tim

You were trying to post in the "Repair Manual", that is a submit for aproval situation. This would be better posted in the "Old Gen" forum, it will probably get moved for you shortly. The consense will probably be that it is more work then it is worth. Along with needing the comp, you would need to swap exhaust and cross member. Tim

Okay Rob, since this thread was buried in the "Off Road" forum I'll give it to you as a free-bee, a nugget of pure gold, the beggining of knowledge............ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29778&highlight=weber Later, tim

Your best bett would be to contact Emilly at CCR and then let the rest of us know. I did a quick search and the couple of times this has been asked there never has been a definative answer. Thanks, tim

This is from the last time you asked this.......... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80327&highlight=mirror Just put a "bump" in your original post if you don't get an answer right off. I'm thinking of a small set of the stick ons too to supliment my fender mirrors. Tim

Hey Carl, look up "POR15". A lot of restorers swear by it. I think the website is www.por15.com .They have a multitude of products, I tried a "starter kit" and it seemed to hold up well on spot repairs. Later, Tim

The clamps that are on my GCK axle are stamped with "GCK". I would imagine that is probably part of their warrenty, kind of like a seal. Might not want to mess with them. Just a thought, Tim

So I'm gonna try and NOT be a D**K to you, okay? would it be possible for you to please not post stuff that you "think". Unless you know an answer for sure, it would be best if you just read along with the rest of the class and learned some stuff. This is a scan I just made for you, from 1983 owners manual. I would have used a Loyales but I didn't want to spend any more time digging through owners manuals. Just think, if they had it in 1983, why would they not have it into the early 90's:confused: :confused: Sorry to seem harsh, but you don't seem to get it when others have told you the same thing in other threads in a nice manor. Okay, just to verify........ http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=233553675&dealer_id=613238&car_year=1992&model=LOYALE&num_records=25&systime=1194710831296&make2=&start_year=1989&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=used&distance=0&marketZipError=false&search_lang=&make=SUB&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=57055&advanced=&end_year=1994&doors=&transmission=&max_price=&cardist=698

Well while we're showing pictures, here's a couple of the one I had..... And 33/100.... Just dealer add-ons :-p

You do realize that it is either just a GL-5 or more likely a GL with some dealer installed decals, right???

Link to tyres please;) . Tim

The new clutch is in. It was cooked to well done. both the fly wheel and PP had heat discoloration and the disk was pretty tore up too. The girl at the paper work counter tried to give me the "this is operator caused" and that it wouldn't be replaced again under warrenty. At that point I had a talk with the tech who did the replacement. I told him there was no way this was an operator caused problem, car runs fine for 7,770 miles and then all of a sudden we're ridding the clutch:confused: :confused: . After I filled him in on the pedal acting up he was in agreement and told me to keep a close eye on it. The pedal does seem alot "lighter" now, it might be the new clutch or I could be imagining it but that's how it seems. Over all I'd give them an 8 out of 10 and that just because of the paper work girl trying to "pull one over on me" Later, Tim

Wow!!! and I thought I was twisted:eek: . The twins just look wild in there:headbang: :headbang: . Later, Tim

Why would you think the USMC would want them??? We may be a bit rough, but we have a ton of honor instilled in us. Oh, and contrary to popular belief, they teach Marines to avoid bullets