chef_tim

Dealership should be able to get them for you too. Tha last time I bought a set I think they were about $40 each. Tim

New GCKs about $110, no core. If your planning on keeping the car, spend good money and get new ones. Later, Tim

I would suggest just spending the $100 and get a new one. Your just as likely to get junk from a junk yard and recoring these is a more or less a waste of money. There are some parts that souldn't be scrimped on and the radiator is one (especially in the desert). Later, Tim

I test fit an EA series radiator and it seems a littel wide. I could make it work but I spent about an hour on the "internets" looking for other radiators. Vehicles like Chevettes, Geos, and a couple of others were looking in the size range I was looking at. Price was right on most of them to. Next may be a trip to the wrecking yard just to look at fillers, inlet, and out lets. Later, Tim

Go ahead and build a new one................ $60 and a couple of day for one just like this (less $300 winch of course)....... (yes, this is a shameless atemp to show off my bumper again)

Just a warning (sorry, old guy...it's my job...LOL). it is against federal law to sell used cats, I don't know if it makes any difference in your area, but here I know that the wrecking yards are very addiment about not selling them. I had mine fabed at a shop on an old motor that I just put the two pipes from the head, minus the cat, on to. the exhaust guy took it from there. covered his bum, because it wasn't an exhaust "on a car". Oh, and the whole thing including new muffler was only $140. Later and make sure to let us know what you come up with, Tim

Hey Mick, glad to see this is getting an early start. If there is any thing I can help with just let me know. Just as a thought, Vicky really enjoyed the place we meet at two years ago, Saylor Lake (?). Would be nice to have a place to do some "light" wheeling too. Later, Tim

DITTO on my hatch DRTYGRL has 205/75/14 Courser OTD. Nice tyre not to bad on price and radials Tim

Good call on the thermo housing. I think once I lay it all out prior to mounting I'll "see" alot of possibilities. I called the radiator shop and he seemed willing to do what he could. Even had a few words of wisdom for me. Thanks again guys, I'm looking forward to some temps in at least the double digits (above 0) so I can start on this thing. Later, Tim

That's pretty much what I was thinking but reworking the neck. I guess cutting a hole in the front and soldering on a new filler would be good too. I'm now thinking this might get a start on my hatch and not wait to build a wagon to do it. Good stuff, thanks. Tim

Okay, now I've been thinking again, "How am I going to fill the thing and keep it full"???? So my thought was to make the radiator able to tip up at an angle, fill it then lay it back down. The one thing that does worry me is being at the highest point in the cooling system it will be the first to go dry if I do lose coolant (does that make sense???) The other thought I had was to have the fill neck reworked so that it is at a 90º angle, pop in a funnel and fill it up. Any ideas or thoughts welcomed, Tim

Why would you even concider paying $8000 for a car in that condition??? Do your self a favor and keep shopping. There's alot of deals to be found if you look about. Later, Tim

I drive both of mine as DD's. Of course I have enough vehicles that if I do break something I have a back up. GD is correct about power, economy, comfoft etc, they all go down hill very quickly. However, the pride of driving that thing through town makes up for most of that stufff . Tim

^^^ I used the "standard" 3009(?) bulb on mine.

WAY SWEET :clap:

Same here and on the passenger side too. I got a OEM socket from a guy on NASIOC. I spliced them together with a bit of extra lenght, I think that could be a part of the problem. It seemed like quite a strech to get the original socket on the bulb. So far so good, hope it works out for you, Tim

Picture is worth a lot of words..... Hand made axle tool. I also have a cam gear tool that Caleb left to me in his red wagon. Sorry no pic of that one.

Congratulations Dave :banana: . I read on here that there are holes in the body channels so you can get at the plugs. When I did my motor the plugs were already in so I didn't have to deal with that but the plug wires were a nightmare:eek: . Give me a call when you get a sec and tell me about the new toy. Later, Tim

My thought too, even did a search to see what the resalution was. Later, Tim

With enough warning I *might* be down for a road trip to CO. I'd just make it a week of camping and such. Oh, and we'd represent old and new ("Ruzilla", 86 hatch and "Crack Head", 97 OBW) Later, Tim

^^^You forgot point "C", the most importaint and correct answer....... To cheap to buy the real tool when cheese graters are $.50 at the Goodwill

You mean like this........... :clap:

I did end up having a guy from Bellarus do the install. I did all the finish work on it. The main problem is the Brat roof line is about 25mm higher then the Hatch. The only problem after the fact is some slight leaks, but it's an off roader so I'm not worried about that. I don't think I'll ever live down the "cheese grater/rasp":lol: . Later, Tim

Not you silly, the guy who scanned the book. $4 to help off set his cost Later, Tim

Bolts right in. You will need to do some plumbing work from the motor to the radiator IIRC. Remember to use the Flywheel and clutch that matches the tranny, not the motor. Need any thing else I'll try and remember. Tim