OB99W

Welcome to the forum. I'm not saying anything more, since I've already put my foot in my mouth in this thread. Want to comment, Olnick ?

Thanks for sharing your experiences, John. A typical "12 volt" automotive battery has six cells in series, each at 2.1 volts when charged, for a total of 12.6 volts. Due to various factors (improper charging, excessive vibration, etc.), as the battery ages some of the plate material finds it's way to the bottom of the cells, and forms a conductive "sludge" or "mud". If that sludge level gets high enough, it can partially short out the plates in the cell. Such a cell can no longer be charged to 2.1 volts. The alternator will attempt to keep the voltage at whatever level its regulator is set to -- let's say that's 14.4 volts. If all's okay with the battery, that voltage will be about evenly shared across each of the cells, 2.4 volts apiece. Now, let's assume that one cell has too much sludge (but the other cells are okay), and only 1.3 volts appears across the bad one during charging. That leaves 14.4 minus 1.1, or 13.5 volts to be shared by the remaining five cells. Those five will each see about 2.7 volts, instead of the usual 2.4. That's enough to overcharge those five cells (it's the equivalent of the alternator outputting 16.2 volts into six healthy cells), and electrolyte venting would not be unexpected. A more complete short in one cell, or a partial short in more than one, would make matters worse. For anyone interested, I found a link to some good battery info: http://www.landiss.com/battery.htm

Fairtax4me makes a valid point, so it's good to use an OEM or equal. Some people run into stalling problems with a lightweight clutch/flywheel, or at least find that they have to modify their technique.

Thanks -- don't know how I missed that. I probably need to get more sleep!

From the first post of this thread, "2000 Subaru Forester L" -- mileage not given as of yet.

Is the AT Oil Temp light blinking after the car is first started? Have you tried inserting a fuse in the FWD holder (under hood, near passenger side strut tower) to see if that changes the symptom? EDIT: Forget the above, it applies only to the 4EAT -- see the next two posts.

There are several possible conditions that can cause excessive shift shock. One of them is inability of the TCU to see the throttle position. However, that and others that are electrical in nature typically make themselves known via TCU trouble codes being triggered. Unfortunately, the TCU can't report on problems that are strictly mechanical.

To clarify the -10 or -11: 10 mm = .39 inch 11 mm = .44 inch

Welcome to the forum. See http://www.furi-dorifto.com/tech/Subaru_dox/ABSInsiderEWFall05.pdf . EDIT: If the above doesn't help, here's some general info: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/brakes/FtSubaruABSS99.pdf http://www.furi-dorifto.com/tech/Subaru_dox/ABSEWFall05.pdf

A '93 has hydraulic lash adjusters ("lifters") -- there are no adjustments. See http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtEngineOverhaulSp98.pdf for servicing information and some diagnosis of noise. Also, the screws holding the back plate of the oil pump can loosen, resulting in lessened oil delivery and valve train noise.

Lack of engine braking can indicate an internal trans problem. On the other hand, a bad trans mount can allow the driveline to "wind up" and suddenly release, and possibly cause what you're experiencing. I'd change the mount before further analysis.

That sort of driving (short, non-highway) can lead to fuel dilution of the oil and moisture buildup, especially in cold weather. Even with the low total annual miles, one oil change per year may not be enough. I'd suggest considering a six-month change interval, with the filter replaced every other time. (The amount of "used" oil left in the filter isn't very significant, given their small size.) Unless those trips are typically with the headlights and heavy-current-draw accessories running, the charging system should be capable of keeping up with the demand. You might want to check the connections, and make sure the alternator drive belt is properly tensioned -- perhaps verify the alternator output is sufficient. If the battery isn't in good condition itself, it might not be able to hold a charge well. EDIT: Nipper's suggestion of having an oil analysis done (at least once) has merit. It could confirm the need for changes more frequent than annually, or ease your concern over once per year being enough.

When you do use it, how long is a typical trip?

The connector you're looking at is probably the one for the Select Monitor. The 6-pin diagnosis connector, B82, is usually black. It and the two ground probes are typically taped up to the harness (might just look like a lump), near the connector you found and the green ones. You probably have either the ABS 5.3 or 5.3i system. See: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/brakes/FtSubaruABSS99.pdf --and-- http://porcupine73.com/pics/diagrammatics/tcu-diagnosis-connector-96-1.gif --and-- http://porcupine73.com/pics/diagrammatics/tcu-diagnosis-connector-96-2.gif

If coasting downhill in 3rd, is there engine braking?

Probably, but to what degree depends on where the timing is off. One tooth at the crank sprocket is about 15 degrees, while at cams it's half that. One tooth off at only one cam would act differently than if it was at both. The effect will also vary depending on whether the error creates an advance or retardation.

The ECU and TCU constantly communicate with each other. There are engine-related faults that the TCU "knows" about (TPS and baro come to mind offhand). Reading the TCU fault code(s) could be helpful in finding the problem.

See http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtEngineOverhaulSp98.pdf .

If the fuel pump is working and the injectors aren't leaking, even with the key off the fuel lines will remain under about 40 psi of pressure for quite a while -- be prepared for some gas to squirt out if you open a hose connection.

Although it may not be what's lacking in this case, I'd add "air" to the list.

a '93 dohc?

Okay on being able to pass air through the return line. That eliminates it as a cause of the high fuel pressure, leaving the FPR. Yes, the leak is probably due to the O-ring having gotten damaged or no longer being resilient. It should be replaced if you intend to drive before you get the new FPR -- please don't use the car while there's a gas leak. You're right, the manual doesn't seem to have a section concerning R&R of the FPR. Who needs service info, anyway? The FPR typically comes with an O-ring already installed in the groove (but you should probably verify that from wherever you purchase the FPR, just to be sure). Yes, I would suggest OEM. More and more aftermarket parts seem to be coming from questionable suppliers. (The recall problems that Toyota and Honda have been having lately might be traced back to from whom they're buying parts, so it isn't just the aftermarket in some cases.) As to the front A/F sensor -- as we've discussed before, it should probably be replaced eventually. Whether you purchase it along with the FPR is a personal decision. What I would advise is that you change the FPR first, just to see what effect that has, including checking gas mileage (I'd expect at least a slight improvement). If the car seems to run okay, and gets adequate mileage, you might be able to put off the A/F sensor a bit longer. If there's still a drivability problem after changing the FPR, or the mileage isn't enough improved, then I wouldn't wait to change the A/F sensor. Replacing a sluggish sensor that's sufficiently impacting gas mileage can actually pay for itself in reduced gas expense. Once the FPR is replaced, the ECU should have it's memory erased, either via the 3130 or by disconnecting the battery for a while. The reason I'm suggesting that is primarily because the long term fuel trim is probably compensating for the excessive fuel pressure -- once the pressure is correct, the current LTFT would be incorrect and confuse things.

Please post all codes you're getting (P030x and any others, not the code definitions). It's unlikely that you can detect a bad coil pack by "specs" (I'm assuming by that you mean resistance of the windings). Subaru uses more than one supplier for the coils, and there are measureable differences. If the two primary windings read about the same, and the two secondary windings also do, then if the resistance is close to "spec", it's probably okay. What do the wires read? Have you checked for insulation breakdown? (A light misting of water after dark will allow you to see sparks if the insulation isn't holding up.) If you replace the ignition wires, be sure to use only OEM Subaru ones. Based on your reply, it seems the fuel filter hasn't been changed recently -- I'd suggest considering doing that. Just how much did you have apart?

Welcome to the forum. Is the Check Engine light lit? If so, have you read any codes? What prompted you to change the TPS, other than symptoms? How many miles are on the engine? What maintenance has been done recently? Fuel filter changed?

If anyone has a problem with fuse 5 blowing on a 2000 Legacy, see the attachment.