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OB99W

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Posts posted by OB99W


  1. Become a member of subaruforester.org and go to this thread:

    http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/piston-slap-03-forester-2833/

    Download the InsiderInfoEndFall03.pdf file from post #5.

    Read the section "Assembling 1997 And Newer Engines".

     

    If for some reason you're unsuccessful doing the above, let us know and I'll see if I can post the information.


  2. Your current mileage is well under the recommended change interval for the timing belt. You might want to get in touch with Subaru of America over that.

     

    In addition, I'd ask the dealer to show you the language in the extended warrantee which excludes the problem. If it really is excluded, your mocking attitude is probably justified.


  3. Congrats on the progress.

     

    P0134 is "O2 (A/F) Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected". Simply put, it's not being seen by the ECU -- assuming the sensor is good and the correct one, it's apparently not wired correctly to the ECU. It's possibly been that way since the swap, but because the sensor wasn't up to operating temperaure since it's heater wasn't working properly, the ECU couldn't tell. Something to check is continuity of the thin white and black sensor wires back to the ECU.

     

    However, be aware that you sometimes can't run ground wires between any two points without consequences. There's a reason why grounds run to particular locations, and usually it's because other paths cause signals to be interfered with. You might want to see if you can trace the A7/A15/C1 ground wiring and find out why it isn't doing the job, rather than adding other wiring.


  4. I'm seeing this as two separate issues. Initially, the #4 inj was stuck partially open, based on that it apparently still had output even when disconnected. (Otherwise, why would disconnecting #4 not cause "a stumble" while disconnecting the other three did?) After the swap and whatever else might have been done, there was an electrically-related problem, based on the code 17.


  5. I`m having trouble seeing how a stuck injector would set code 17 w/o any disruption in the electrical circuit.

     

    An injector/ecu wire that grounded out to the chassis could give massive fuel and a code though.

     

    I would unplug the ecu and measure resistance between #4 injector ground(at inj plug) and battery - while moving the harness around before trying another injector.Or just take the old injector out and try to blow through it.

    I missed the comment about the code 17, so what you said is something to look at.

     

    In the first post of the thread, it was mentioned that the wiring harness was changed, but the problem persisted. The question is, exactly what "harness" was replaced? A short to ground on the #4 inj control line from the ECU could be anywhere along it, including the possibility of there being a problem in the ECU itself. If just a pigtail at the injector was used, maybe it wasn't insulated well enough.


  6. [...] I finally tried disconnecting the injectors and found that injector #4 was the only one not causing a stumble when disconnected.

    That might happen from two possible scenarios:

     

    1) You were only running on three cylinders. #4 was dead (due to any cause), so disabling any of the remaining three would make for a really rough engine. Possible, but not likely -- you'd probably have noticed a dead cylinder :).

     

    2) The #4 injector was leaky, so it had output even when it was electrically disconnected. More likely.

     

     

    Upon starting the car with the new injector everything seemed fixed and my rough idle was gone! unfortunately, after driving it for a day, my rough idle returned, and again it seems to be the #4 injector.

    If I'm correct that the original injector was hanging open, since the replacement was initially okay and then developed the same symptom, there may be crud in the rail. Or, it was leaking for other reasons.

     

    I'm with GD on getting a used rail with injectors already mounted. Be sure to protect the open ends from dirt until things are back together. The fuel filter does a good job of protecting the injectors, but it can't stop stuff from reaching the injectors that gets in the line after it.

     

    You may now have gas dilution of the oil. You should probably change it as a precaution.


  7. My 04 Forester developed a VERY high frequency low volume scream under the hood after a recent 300 mile run through cold/icey roads. [...]

     

    I can hear it when the engine is off, key out. [...]

     

    Any ideas?

    I can't say for sure, but there's a common cause of that noise. It's typically due to a corroded connection at the keyless remote entry "beeper". That's located just behind the grill, where it's vulnerable to road salt, and the cold weather can make a poor connection worse due to metal contracting.

     

    If you have a couple feet of rubber or plastic tubing around, you can use it as a stethescope -- put one end to your ear, and the other near the beeper. If that's the culprit, you can try unplugging the connector and cleaning the connection. If it's badly corroded, you might have to replace the beeper and/or the connector.


  8. Sorry, I was wrong-- I should have said that connecting pins 1 and 4 cause the fan to come on. I just realized that connecting 2 and 4 also make it come on. I'm assuming this would be a better place to put a switch, since these are the relay contacts, correct?

    Okay, that makes more sense.

     

    Using 1 & 4 passes the motor current through the fuse and wiring for the mode control, which isn't designed to handle the motor load.

     

    Definitely use 2 & 4 only (yes, that's where the relay contacts would normally be).


  9. You could put a switch (capable of handling the blower motor current) in place of the relay contacts. Agreed, it's a hack job, but I understand your circumstances.

     

    However, you have me puzzled. :-\ The wiring diagram I have (not factory) shows pins #2 & #4 as going to the relay contacts. It indicates #1 & #3 as going to the relay coil -- assuming that's correct, connecting those two pins together should blow the mode control's fuse, if the ground connection through the control was working. Without the ground (which seemed to be the case), the fuse wouldn't blow -- but either way, connecting #1 & #3 should theoretically not cause the blower to come on.

     

    Care to pursue this?


  10. Okay, the fan is not working and pins 2 and 4 have power across them, but 1 and 3 do not. It's the same whether or not the fan is turned on.

    The last check is to see if there's power at pin #1 with respect to chassis ground. If there is, then...

     

     

    Unfortunately I've been rapping on the dash for a good year now, to no avail ;)

    ...the mode control is likely the culprit, which is where I was going and Josh went into detail about.


  11. Thanks! Yes, when it stops it stops completely. None of the speeds work. Is it it correct to assume that if it were the resistor the highest speed would still work?

    That's right, in the highest speed position the resistor isn't in the circuit.

     

    Since you've already changed the relay, there are a couple of things you can try next time the blower quits. The first is to rap on the dash in the area of the mode control, and see if the blower comes back on. The other is to remove the relay and see if its coil is getting power -- it should be on pins #1 & #3 of the socket shown in the attached diagram. (Since the relay contacts normally are across pins #2 & #4, you'd see battery voltage across them as well.)

     

    Let us know what you find.

    post-15889-136027645564_thumb.gif


  12. I suggest checking the PCV -- the valve for proper operation (or just replace it), and the plumbing to make sure it isn't full of sludge. An engine that's mainly used for short trips at slow speeds can tend to have problems in that respect.

     

    Also, you might have worn valve stem seals (not common, but does happen), or stuck rings. Again, the type of driving you've described moves that up on the possibility scale.

     

    If you haven't replaced the air filter recently, take a look at it or just replace it. (Yes, I said air filter. :))

     

    EDIT: Assuming the oil is being burned, enough of it can cause knock, which would of course lead to the timing being retarded.


  13. brand new oem denso sensor

    The only thing I can comment on, then, is that the sensor for the WRX (2.0 turbo) seems to be a different one than that for the 2.5/RS. I don't know which one you're using, or if that's related to your problem. I would suggest trying a Subaru sensor that is meant for the 2003 WRX, since that's the ECU you're using.

     

    Other than that, I've run out of ideas. When the wiring gets changed significantly from stock, some of the usual diagnostic techniques aren't valid any longer.

     

    It seems to me that the best way to approach this is to either look at the changes that were made, and see if any impact the A/F sensor, or talk to folks who have successfully done the swap and see if they have any further insight.


  14. ive been hearing alot about this green wire thing, [...]

    The connectors are green, the wires may not be. They should be easy to get to. Look under the dash, above the accelerator pedal. They'll probably be hanging down. Unplug them from each other.

     

    They look like the ones on the right in the picture (click on the link):

    http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads/Knowledge/EU_WRX03_flash_connectors.gif


  15. [...]my fuel pump comes on and then go's off again.when fuel pump comes on

     

    under the hood i can hear a hissing sound There are silinoids clicking

     

    under the hood when i turn the key on and my check engine light flashes too.

     

    I also put an obd code reader on it and it shows ( p 1100 p 1101 p

     

    1120 p 1121 p 1540 p 130 p 136 p p 500 I know what the

     

    codes are but why are there so many codes.

     

    [...]This has got to be something simple

    It is something simple. You have the green test mode connectors under the dash coupled together. Disconnect them.

     

    If there are still problems after doing that, let us know.


  16. Okay, I spent some more time online, and found:

     

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=883750

    See the first post (ignore other two). This raises the question as to whether your heater also is coming on momentarily, which would be good to know. What I'd suggest is to leave the key off, connect your voltmeter to the white heater wires and ground, start the engine and immediately read the meter. If it's anything less than battery voltage (even for a few seconds), it means the ECU is trying to activate the heater.

     

    http://www.scoobymods.com/oxygen-sensor-t13105.html

    You might want to get back to these guys with the voltages you measured when the sensor is connected.

     

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=87

    RS to WRX swap info

     

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1486051

    '99 RS to '02 WRX

     

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25447283&postcount=2

    '02-'05 WRX to '98 RS

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