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subiekid

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About subiekid

  • Birthday 07/21/1987

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Coeur d'Alene, ID
  • Interests
    motors, boats
  • Occupation
    Equipment mechanic
  • Ezboard Name
    Subiekid
  • Vehicles
    88 GL-10, 06 Outback XT

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  1. Early honda crx (89-91 I believe) pods fit very well without trimming as well. I can snap a picture of mine if you want. Atm 20400 is the summit part number for the one I used. it is a 2 place pod, but I think a 3 place is available as well. Scott
  2. I had 7 lbs (stock is 19 iirc) taken off my ea flywheel when I had the ea82t in the turbo wagon, rev matching was wonderful.... taking off from a stop sign with the 6 puck and light flywheel was not so good. With a stock style clutch, I think it would be great. I can no longer use mine (ej now), if someone wants to try it, i'll sell it cheap compared to having a local machine shop do it for you.. I think I paid $75 to lighten, and re-balance. Scott
  3. If you can figure out how to make it work, please let me know! I haven't messed with it at all to be honest(everything else works), but I can plug other tachs into the ecu output (Autometer, analog EA), but nothing on the digital dash. Scott
  4. We don't suggest EJ swaps for no reason... Your going to dump $500 or more into the EA and blow it up just like the rest of us have (multiple times.... 6 or 7 personally, I lose count). The money spent on the EA will buy your EJ swap if you can do the work yourself. If your not a boost addict, you could build a good driver with the EA, just keep the boost down and don't rev it to the moon. I still own a EA turbo wagon and it makes a great daily driver, you just can't get carried away with it. I spent $300 on a 91 turbo legacy, put almost 10,000 miles on it in the legacy and then swapped it into my 88 GL10. The entire swap was only about $200, and I put a non turbo EJ in the legacy and sold it for $800. So really I payed nothing for my swap and still pocketed a few bucks (I had the n/a EJ all ready). Why bother, polishing turds still ends with turds no matter which way you look at it. On the other hand, I have a fresh rebuilt EA-82T .010 over with 1500 miles on it if you want to start fresh.... lol. Just my $.2 Scott
  5. The Ej ecu has the cooling fan output wire(I don't have my diagrams here to give you the pin and connector), I took the original EA fuel pump relay (it's unused with the EJ) and used that as my cooling fan relay (it's just a regular single throw relay, you could buy one as well if you want... just make sure the amperage draw isn't too much for the relay, I only have 1 fan). I would wire the fan/s on high if it were mine, but to each their own. This bypasses the a/c portion of the fan control system. Get on http://www.the12volt.com/ for information on wiring in relays. I don't have any of my diagrams where I'm at but I remember wondering about something like that when I made my harness... if it works.. don't fix it. I would hook it up to an old laptop with vrg3's scan tool (see legacycentral.org under the "electrical section") to be sure you have the proper coolant temp reading, Or hook up a DVOM to the cooling fan output wire and run the car at idle and make sure you get an output out of the wire (it should be a ground iirc).
  6. If it's turbo, I agree as the downpipe is bolted to the side of the trans. If non-turbo you should have that hanger, without it your going from the heads to the rear axle with no support at all. If your just cruising around town it would probably be fine but get off the pavement and beat on it a bit and see what happens... not good. Just my $.2.
  7. Its 3 wire because it's a 2 speed fan, one wire is low, one high, one ground. to reverse the fan you need to reverse the polarity and double check the blade direction (I don't remember what the ej fan looks like but you may be able to flip the fan blade over on the motor to make it push more air) Get yourself a battery, ground the black wire and play with the other two.. you will see what they do. Then reverse the polarity, hook the black to the positive and repeat.
  8. "ONLY" is the wrong way to put it, have you done this swap? There is a bit more too it than the drive line. It is done using all subaru parts but they must be modified for the particular vehicle they are being installed on. It doesn't matter which shift linkage you use: EA or EJ your going to modify it to work. If you find the xt6 crossmember pieces you will be good there otherwise your going to be modifying the stock front and rear crossmember piece to accept the center piece (not to mention the stock EA rear piece is too thin to do anything with anyway). Your also going to have to modify the exhaust hanger on the back of the trans to make either the EA or EJ hanger work. Any way you look at it there is more too it than shortening the driveline.
  9. Edit: The info below pertains to EA82 cars, I should have read the initial post closer. All though if you can fit the EA 5spd in the gen 1 (I don't know this for sure) there is no doubt in my mind that you can put the EJ 5 speed there too. The size difference is more width and length than height, and even then the difference is minor with the exception of length. EJ auto... good luck as said above they are much much bigger than the 5 spd There are really only 2 questions to ask yourself about an EA trans vs. an EJ trans... Do you want to have selectable 4wd and how much money do you want to spend. If you stick with the EA trans you need to buy the adapter plate (what ever that costs) and to my knowledge thats it. With the EJ trans you need to modify your front and rear trans crossmember to accept the ej center crossmember section (You can make the front member work but it is pretty close to the trans when everything is bolted up. I have some 1/8'' spacers under my front crossmember to give a little extra room. For the rear portion, I used a piece of 1/4'' x 4'' flat bar to make the rear section.) Or you can find xt6 crossmember pieces (front and rear) and use the ej center portion. The shift linkage is also different between the two transmissions. I used the original EA shifter handle and cup assy and just welded the end of the strut bar from the EJ linkage onto the EA parts (after you check length and shorten of coarse). The actual shift rod will bolt to the EJ trans but will need to be shortened. The driveshaft needs to be shortened 55mm (2'' - 2 1/8'') -not super critical I went with 2 1/8'' (This kept the cup around the output seal of the trans beyond the lip to protect it. It ended up in the exact same place as it was with the original ft4wd EA trans) For axles, all you need is EA turbo 25 spline axles. You could probably just buy the cups from rockford cv (I don't know that for sure though) For the clutch garbage, I took the cable bracket off my 88 ft4wd Trans and trimmed a little off of the bottom of it. It bolted right up to the '01 2.5RS trans I used. I also used the release fork off the ft4wd trans (there are 2 holes inside the bellhousing for the release fork pivot ball, the one closer to the input shaft is for the hydraulic clutch and the one further away is for the cable style) I don't know that all EJ trans have both holes but my '01 5spd did... someone else hopefully can clarify. I think that's it... I have about 4,000 problem free miles on my swap and the ej awd is far superior to the old ft4wd and even the selectable 4wd cars in my opinion. (from a street driving standpoint) You could feel the power difference with the center diff locked in the ft4wd trans and when in 4wd on the selectables. Also if you dumped the clutch with the ft4wd trans you could still get single front tire burnouts... not acceptable in my opinion. All in all, if you don't own the proper tools to modify things to make it all work... save yourself some money and buy the adapter plate. Scott
  10. Impact wrench for removal, strap wrench or old timing belt and vise grips for install. Torque to 55 ft/lbs IIRC. I use just a dab of blue loctite on all my/customers motors... just in case. Scott
  11. I shortened mine 2 1/8'', this is with the ej22t and '01 2.5rs 5 spd trans. 2 1/2'' would work fine but would pull the yolk out a little too much in my opinion. 2 1/8'' left me with roughly 3'' slip out and 1'' slip in (before bottoming out in the trans) Scott
  12. I will add that the tach doesn't work with an EJ swap and the digital dash, baccaruda has the orange style and I have the green..... neither one work. I'm another vote for the analog style... much nicer setup.
  13. For the engine I described above checked with starrett feeler gauge set in .01mm increments: New Subaru oem pistons .010 oversize with subaru rings as well - .05mm (.002) give or take a few tenths, for all top ring groove clearance, .06mm (.024) would not slide into any of them - .04mm (.0016) give or take a few tenths, for all second ring groove (not as critical but measured) as with the above .05mm would not slide into any. Per 88 FSM: Top ring- .04 - .08mm (.0016 - .0031in.) Limit .15mm (.0059in) Second- .03 - .07mm (.0012 - .0028in.) Limit .15mm (.0059in) As far as the back clearance is concerned, this particular original engine had 214k on it (20k of abuse) when the heads cracked down into the intake and exhaust ports. I would say that I don't need to be concerned with that measurement due to the fact that I can do nothing about it and it seemed to make it quite awhile from the factory.... your a fellow subaru owner, they seem to have their ************ together. I would not be so quick to assume what people do and don't know about their engines.... would you like any more clearances, I've got every one in the shortblock!
  14. I just completed a swap in my '88 gl10 wagon from a rebuilt healthy ea82t (uppipe, 3''downpipe +exh., spider intaked, td04, delta 260 cams, wrx intercooled, nissan injectors, etc), to a stock non intercooled ej22t with 176k. The ej has more grunt hands down, it's pretty close power wise (at least seat of the pants, I won't dyno a $500 car... lol) .... until you intercool, etc. the ej, then it's game over. I have never driven a ej swapped ea series car non turbo, but have driven many legacys turbo and non. There really isn't a huge power difference from an n/a ej22 to a stock ej22t. If you run the piss out of your ea82t, you will have problems it's just a matter of time. I have modded (and blown up) alot of ea turbo cars, they don't like to be pushed hard. Even if your fueling is safe (I always ran with a innovate wideband to monitor a/f ratio and egt for exh. temp) once you get beyond 10 psi, your out of what I call the "reliable" zone. I don't hate the ea by any means, it's a good commuter motor to leave alone and drive. The turbo version is a huge improvement power wise compared to the carb or spfi, but you kind of have to look at it as "it is what it is". Some can modify them and make them last, but I attribute that to driving sensibly, something i'm not very good at... lol. With a healthy n/a ej you have approx. 140 hp and can run the dog piss out of it day in, day out and it will be more driveable at the same time. Not to mention less maintnance; no cap, rotor, timing adjustments, etc. get in turn the key and go. My $.2 Scott
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