scrap487

have you ever been in a rollover? doesnt sound like it. I have and I was lucky there was a tree in the way to stop it or I'd be another statistic because I wasnt wearing mine. I've watched a couple friends roll a dodge truck at SLOW speeds, less than 15mph, rolled twice. driver was wearing his seatbelt, my other friend wasnt and was flung from the vehicle on the first roll, he was lucky he only punctured a lung got a severe concussion and fractured his hip. Another one of my friends dad rolled their older bronco just recently coming back from estecada, he wasnt wearing his seatbelt and they had the top off. His dad was killed and his passanger who wasnt wearing his seatbelt either is still in critical condition on lifesupport. I've seen a few bad car wrecks that resulted with later model CARS(not trucks) being completely demolished and rolled several times, it was only the seatbelts and airbags that allowed the victims to walk away from the wrecks completely unharmed. If you have a problem with the government, find a better way to protest because when you get hurt in an accident you will just become another statistic supporting thier laws.

sorry to go a little off topic but... SWEET SCORE, that car is friggin awesome

cool... didnt see mine, hahah... thats awesome dude thanks for sharing

how does it run other than burning oil? any back firing through the carb or exhaust? sounds like bad valve stems/seals to me.

cool... when you're done maybe take some bondo and smooth it out before you paint it

easy, dont use pvc, use ABS, its a lot stronger and way more durable. simple test, take a piece of sch40 pcv and a peice of abs the same size, and hit them both with a hammer, the pvc will shatter and it wont do anything to the abs. anyways, its looking really good... make sure you post pics for when you're finished

why not use ABS instead of PVC? last I knew it is a lot more durable

I submitted a small write up about rear shocks to zap awhile ago for the faq but I never got any response from him... pretty much what you need to do is measure how much length you will need and how much compression, and then find a specification chart from rancho(http://www.gorancho.com/products/appguides/2005/2005_productshock_spec.pdf) or from someone else, and find their shock that fits your specs and mounting type and order it. Don't have to deal with BS such as trying to find a shock off this vehicle, screw that and do it right. you MAY have to press out the top mounting pin on your old shocks and reuse that, but when I got my shocks from procomp they came with a variety of differant pins and one of them worked for me.

yeah... and the wildcats are actually a pretty darn good tire. I have a set of balding cookie cutter type ones on my nissan and they've been awesome for an a/t type tire

ok well I think I may spend more time at the lake n stuff not really doing much, was thinking about maybe taking a shot at badger lake too... if someone is in the area give me a call 503-880-7316 and I'm definately down to go exploring/wheeling whatever.

stock rig welcome cause thats what I got... thinking about exploring some trails above green point resevoir bout 20 minutes out of hood river, I found some awesome rockcrawling type stuff that a stock rig could do... just gotta be careful not to pop tires cause i popped 2 the first time I went up the trail(was going a little faster than I should have and came down right on the sidewall/rim, big dent, completelydemolished sidewall). I'm thinking about heading up during the day and then maybe taking a break at the lake later in the afternoon and then probably going for some more or taking off up to my farm.

should go into the usrm...

yeah, usually what I do is just put about a quart or so of diesel or kerosene in with some oil and run it for bout 5 minutes or so... tho I think there is quite a differance between a ford 300 straight 6 and a little subaru 1.8, but I dunno... I'd be tempted to try it on my beast that already has bad rod knock but not on my daily driver.

2 cotter pins you have to pull, one in each end, I believe the right size punch is 3/16 but double check form another source cause I dont remember, I use a special screwdriver thats perfect for it... might need some help from a bfh to break the rear axles loose from the splines, since they dont usually go bad they will be really old and corroded together. You may need to jack up the car at the diff to relieve the suspension a little bit so you have room to get the axle off... make sure you use jackstands if you work underneath your rig.

not sure on brands, but definately go for semi-metalic, you will HATE yourself for buying organic brake pads the first long steep descent you have to go on... I'm light on the brakes and I use the engine to slow down as much as possible without excessively wearing on my clutch, and I'm also fairly used to semi metal pads and then I went to organic on my new subaru... they fade like no other REALLY fast, start becoming useless for any braking longer than bout 5 seconds or so...

nice... yeah you definately need to protect those lights, what you gonna do when you gotta go through a bush or push a log out of the way etc... when possible its a lot nicer and easier to push something big out of the way rather than deal with tow straps n stuff to pull it... and bushwacking is a whole other story... I lost everything off my front end except the grill doing that cause my bumper does protect that. [edit] I'm friggin jealous

only if this was posted yesterday... sigh er I mean only if I saw it yesterday... posted in january doh

well its back together and runs great, still need to sort out a minor linkage problem but anyways I took some pics along the way: after a few hours of scrubbing: the hole filled with jb weld: comparing the original intake with the weberized one: and what keeps me sane later in the day after several hours of work/sitting around: and yes, the white paint makes it go much faster than it did before AND the clearance is just barely enough for the tall weber filter

everything is back together, I havent yet drilled and tapped the jbwelded hole yet, but so far with a bunch of rtv and new gaskets and letting the rtv cure for a bit before tightened down the intake helped. no coolant leaks from the intake after running it for a bit. so I guess problem *solved* for now. now i just need to tune the carb right and figure out why my idle is so jumpy, I think my vac advance might be bad because it wasnt so weird on the other subaru.

yeah... similar to nissan 720s ifs... I got my own ideas involving a hydraulic drivetrain, and now that the beast is retired to the farm I can do whatever i want to it... shhhh keep it on the d/l

I dont have a stereo in my monster just because of the fact that I'm so paranoid something is going to go wrong i listen to every little sound it makes and if I cant hear something I pull over and figure out whats wrong

I think they're pretty much the same thing, just differant brand names n such.

I dont like the fact that i have to use it either... if this doesnt work what I think I will do is drill it out a bit bigger and jb weld a stud in place... and hopefully something will be reliable for long enough to get what i need to rebuild my extra heads and get them machined and get the gaskets so I'm all ready.

ok... the hole is fubar, helicoil and drilling/retapping is out of the question, the bolt would have to be larger than the hole in the intake to have any decent threads left. I'm gonna try some jbweld or something similar. btw its one of the long bolts that broke.

second that... with a proper push bar even trees would not have stopped us, I could only push that last one so far untill it would have come up and smashed my grill and hood.