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When the transmission is shifted from P to R, R to D, or D to R, there is usually a pronounced "clunk" noise. The car drives fine, with smooth shifting. Somebody with mechanical expertise suggested CV joint, but said that would be unusual because the car has only done 60 000 miles. I would appreciate any suggestions as to origins of the noise, as well as any tests that might be conducted to ascertain suggestions. Thanks muchly.

Agree with you there. I just do a D & R with every dino oil change. Its cheap and easy enough.

OK, but that's not going to give you a full flush, you're still left with 30% original fluid after 3 drain and refills. I think we've been around the block with this one before. It takes 10 D & R's to get to about 2% original fluid.

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"The tranny should be flushed really once every 30,000 miles. You can do it yourself at home with a set of ramps." Could you explain the procedure please, Nipper?

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At the risk of having someone burn rubber on my head I also applaud Sonyhome's efforts here. This is an extensively discussed topic with a confusing array of sometimes cotradictory information and opinions. A concise, systematic summation of the facts can only be useful to those new to the topic. While Nipper and Grossgary's basic tenet that 'all that needs to be said is "all EJ25's from 1996-(sometime in) 2003 are suspect". ' sums it up, people need more info than that, particularly when it comes to buying decisions. Also, for owners like myself, with 55k on the clock, looking at a distinct possibility in the future, I want to be as well-informed as I can before that possibility eventuates.

Thanks, this SubaruPartsForYou.com seems to be the one - the search function is a lot quicker and more user-friendly than other sites, they seem to have a more comprehensive inventory, and the prices are definitely competitive. I'll try the price-match suggestion with the local dealer, otherwise these are the guys.

I don't want to highjack this thread, but if a if a brief diversion is permissible Nipper could you outline the reasoning behind this: "You use a spare fuse in that slot when you have to run on the spare tire."?

Who would you recommend for online purchases? Thanks.

Not quite - a drain and refill replaces one third of the fluid in the transmission. 3 drain and refills will leave you with about 30% original fluid. The 1st d & r will leave you with 66.6% original fluid. The 2nd d &r replaces one third of that, which leaves 44.4% original. The 3rd leaves 29.6% original fluid. Theoretically, it takes 10 d & r's to get close to a complete flush (1.8% original remaining).

Peered into the coolant reservoir and noticed what appear to be blackish deposit on the walls, as per pics. I understand from various threads here that this could be a sign of an internal HG leak. No other symptoms though, temp needle rises to mid-point then doesn't budge till the engine is off, no bubbles in radiator etc. The coolant hasn't been changed in 2 years. Only 56k on the clock. Please say it ain't so.

Yeah, but you're just lucky that your wife has got big strong legs...

Agreed, that has to be one of the handsomest car designs ever.

"...they don't appreciate being fully extended in their middle age." Yes, don't we all, especially when it comes to "knocking".

"i paid him to do it. gets riid of that "what do i do with this oil" problem." C'maaan Nipper, you've got wrench-envy, admit it. If you didn't have a bad back you'd be rolling around in a big 'ol oil puddle on the garage floor along with the rest of the nickel and dime crowd here. Oh dear, what on earth do I do with the used oil? Puh-leeese!

"or just pay a mechanic to do a flush." Aha! Glad to see someone understood what I was saying.

"Riddle me that Batman" - OK gentlemen, I fired up the ol' abacus and after the smoke cleared (it hadn't been used in a while) the following conclusion emerged: After 3 drain and refillls of ATF, 30% of the fluid is still "old". The first d & r leaves 66.6% original fluid. The second d & r replaces 33.3% of 66.6%, which leaves 44.4% original. The third d & r replaces 33.3% of 44.4%, which leaves 29.6% original fluid. 8 d & r's should get you to about 2% original, which is pretty much a "flush". By that time the first d & r is starting to get old, so just keep going. Seems that one needs to do a d & r pretty much every oil change to keep it "fresh" overall?

Recently replaced T-B, 4 cam, main, and oil-pump seals, plus drive-belts, for $600 incl. tax, at Gold Coast Subaru, Glen Cove, LI. For the same job minus drive-belts was quoted $700 by two other Subaru dealers, and $600 by an independent. For just the T-B was quoted $395 by one dealer.

"You know just for giggles go to glen cove subaru and see what price they quote you. i like them because they never try to sell me a new car when i get parts, and i havent heard a bad thing about them. Sometimes Subaru runs a special on timing belt service. Lateley ive been finding subaru competative with local shops for some things (they were the same price as a tranny shop to repair my AWD guess who got the job). I used grand Prix SUbaru for that job." Actually, the $600 quote for belt + all seals was from North Coast Subaru in Glen Cove (the local shop where I get gas also quoted the same, so NCS is being competitive here as you noted, the important difference is obviously Subaru Techs). Grand Prix quoted $395 for T-B only, $75 more for main seal, all seals would probably be over $600. I with you on the games people play, Grossgary, preferably I'd like someone to open the car up and show me the problem on the spot. svxpert, can you give me a cross-street so I can see how far it is from here? If I could just pop over the Throgs Neck and down a mile or two that's one thing, if you're at the other end of the tpk its another - where's exit 3?

"...its such a bother going to that foreign country" - Well, I'm into foreign adventuriesm, and I've heard all about those people over there in that there place, Nuu Joisey, maybe a walk on the wild side wouldn't be out of consideration. Where in NJ are you, svxpert? I'm in the Glen Cove area nipper, watcha got?

OK, got a few quotes, from just the timing-belt, $395, to TB + 4 cam, main and oil-pump seals, $600. Obviously, replacing all seals while in there is the best option, but how can one be certain that the shop wont just replace the leaking seal/s and charge for all of them? To discourage this should I ask for a warranty of non-leakage, and if so, for how long? I don't want to have to go through this again in another 10K. Thanks.

"Wow. I need to start charging more." - No you don't, this is Long Island, it ain't cheap, ask Nipper. You probably need to charge about $99.99 with a discount for cash, up there in Alaska. I'll get some more specific quotes and post them here, just in case anyone's interested.