exercion

So apparently it's a "Cover Catcher". I so love how Subaru names stuff

I already did that, it holds the same fuel pressure when it successfully starts, when it goes through its shutdown phase, and when it refuses to start.

I finally got a pressure gauge in, between other life issues, work etc. According to the gauge, it runs at 23psi, and this doesn't waver when it goes through its bucking shut-off phase.

I have a new to me 2017 Crosstrek. One thing I need to take care of is this. Passenger side rear door sill has this plastic piece that a stud on the door fits into, while the drivers side has a hole. Not sure what it does or what it's called to look up ordering one. So does anyone know what the plastic part is, or what Subaru calls it? Better yet any idea of a PN? Eric

I should have a pressure gauge in today or tomorrow

Up til this little episode my Subie has been my daily driver, 40 miles round trip to work 5 days a week, plus assorted running around.

Following up with this, it's more than simply not wanting to restart after running. While trying to nail this down, I found this out: It starts and runs beautifully in the morning/evening/anytime it's been sitting for hours. Idles high til it warms up, then drops the idle to normal rpm's Purrs like the proverbial kitten, no missing, sputtering, throttle needed, etc. 25 minutes after start-up, almost enough to set your watch by, it bucks stutters, sounds like an old carbed engine loading up, pops a bit, then shuts off. Will not restart for at least an hour and a half, two is better. Even then it hesitates to actually light off. Let it sit a few hours, and it's back to hit the key and boom, starts right up. No vacuum leaks external (sprayed starting fluid at all vacuum connections), idles at 21-22" vacuum. EGR valve is stuck in whatever position it is in (guessing closed since it's holding good vacuum, and I took the valve off to see if it needed cleaned etc. and it seems closed). I have not checked fuel pressure yet, have a gauge coming, but the fact that it is so predictable as far as when it happens makes me doubt that, but I'll check. Also, I can drive it, no loss of power, climbs the mountain well, as long as I don't turn it off. Changed spark plugs (they were due) no bad signs there. Checked resistance on the coil, it was in spec, but one of the screws had bad threads, so I changed that. Same issue. Tested volts and resistance on CTS, in spec. Had another so I tested it, in spec. Installed, same issue. On the chance that it still was a temp issue causing the no-restart thing, when I had it in that mode I plugged in the cool CTS, so it would maybe think it was cooler and adjust to allow a start. Didn't work. Only codes flashing are 34 & 35 EGR and purge, as noted the EGR is stuck, and I have my vacuum gauge plugged into the line that goes to the canister. No other stored codes in either read memory or D-check. Pretty baffled here.

Hi Dave, thanks for the reply. Those are the threads I used to learn about testing the sensor. It was about 15F when I checked cold, and if memory serves I was approx 5K ohms. Started it up, warmed to approx 160 (based on the current 160 thermostat, going to switch to a warmer one) and had 500 ohms. Which seemed to follow the correct pattern. Hope you don't mind a dumb question, but where is the ecu, and do you know the pinout? I have two manuals but not access to either at the moment. Eric

1988 GL SPFI 5spd. Having the issue that when it's cold, even subzero cold the car starts fine. However, after a drive, if I shut it off, it doesn't want to start. If it sits long enough, it does start up as normal. I searched the forum and read about testing the ohms in the temp sensor and it seemed to be fine (Good resistance cold, dropping hen the car is warm). Contacts were clean, but I cleaned anyway. Not sure my next step. Thinking I should try to get it to do it (I haven't gotten a solid pattern on just how warm and how long to create the issue) and then measure resistance. Next play could be replace the sensor. Not sure. Thoughts? Eric

Replaced both alternator and AC belts. Rewired starter system to include a start relay. Replaced starter positive lead, and both heater hoses while I was at it. Switched to LED headlight bulbs.

Thank you! It sounds like I'm on the right track then, mine does have the hill holder and appears to have 3 ports. I am disc front/drum rear (did any wagons come with 4 wheel discs? I'd love to convert) Eric

My issue is that rare though it may be, my 32 year old master cylinder is bad. Yes I can rebuild, I had not decided which way to go, but it seems there are two different internal diameters 13/16" and 15/16" so I'm still stuck wanting to know which cylinder I'm looking for so even for a rebuild kit to order.

I seem to be finding all sorts of quirks and issues on my elderly GL. Having master cylinder issues, and when I look on Rock Auto I see a bunch of different ones and am not sure just which one I need for my 88 GL 5spd 4WD wagon. Most of the confusion for me seems to be the number of ports. If I am counting things right, mine has three lines connected to the master cylinder. The descriptions on Rock for three ports says for coupe and sedan, it does list the wagon ones with no description of ports, etc. Anyone know which OEM part number I should be looking at to cross reference? Eric

Well, like the subject says. Was driving along, pulled into a parking lot and the trusty Subie shut off. Popped the hood, and could see the drivers side belt was off. Didn't have the needed wrenches (thinking that it had just skipped off the sprockets) and the engine was hot and I was under a time constraint, so I arranged a tow home. Went out today, looked underneath and low and behold, the oil pump pulley is gone. Guessing I maybe didn't have the nut tight enough when I did a full reseal, pump rebuild a couple thousand miles ago. Anyway, I either need the pulley/nut, or I'd take a whole pump at this stage. Trying to find one online with no success, and there are zero EA 82 Subies in the salvage yards around here. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Eric

Thanks guys. No luck with a paint code. I reckon it's 50/50. Unless someone knows which of the two blues Lake Metallic and Saphire Metallic is darker?

Ok, where under the hood do you find the tag?

Ok, so more correctly, how do I find out what color I have? 88 GL, blue. But there are apparently two different blue's. I can't find any sticker for a color code, unless I'm not looking in the right place (inside door jambs, under hood). Is it part of a VIN? Eric

Drivers side is up. No error there. Found a vac line off, and when I went into old school mechanic mode and started checking plugs for fouling I found my plugs desperately needed replacing. Replaced plugs, connected vac line and it ran pretty good. Hit it with a timing light (with the green plugs connected) and set to 20 BTC. Runs pretty good now. Have new cap and coil for it to put on next, since both are likely 30+ years old.

Ok so I checked timing again. This is where I have it. If anything is out, it looks like maybe a half tooth on passenger side. Curiously, it will not start now. I read another thread about checking for #1 TDC, and when I followed that, with my cam marks pass side up and out approx 45 deg. drivers down and out, my rotor is pointing to #1. I did notice some flaky white deposits on the posts inside the cap, which I cleaned off. Thoughts?? Eric

Thanks Ferp, I'll look more closely. Might have moved when I adjusted tension. I absolutely did do the 360 rotation after doing the drivers side belt.

So belts are in, my trusty GL did start, but very rough and won't take throttle. So I'm guessing I'm 180 out. Will these engines start like that? Or is that more symptomatic of being a tooth or so off? It looked fine to me after I carefully followed the advice and videos posted here. And if it is 180 out, can you just rewire the dist cap to correct? Eric

ok so the belts are on and the car starts. Next dumb question: I got a new water pump since I had had a leak which I thought was the pump (it wasn't) and I can't remember how old this pump is. But the flange on my new pump isn't quite as far from the body of the pump as the old one, so the pulleys don't line up. It's an Aisin, and is supposed to be the correct one for my application (I believe it because the offset if you will is only about 3/16", not lining up with either of the grooves on the other pulleys (I have factory AC) Can you put a puller on that flange and slide it out to where the fan will fit and the pulley line up? It has been way too many years since I've done that sort of thing and figured I'd ask the guru's

Wow I had no idea my question about which timing belts to get would trigger a peeing contest about how much snow there is or isn't in Tahoe (for the record I have seen winters with a metric f%*k-ton of snow there and ones with not really any to speak of, let alone ski on) But anyway I figured I'd update: I went with the Gates from RA, and while I haven't put them on yet, the parts do say "Made in USA". Interestingly enough, this is the same brand as is on now, if the remaining belt is any indication (same part #) Eric

Was in Tahoe, but live on the other side of the country now. I'll definitely be planning to run the belts naked so to speak.

So I snapped the drivers side belt in my 88 GL wagon. I have the car apart to look at what all parts I need but have the question of which timing belts to purchase. On Rock Auoto, Gates Powergrip premium belts are $5 a piece, and ordering from Subaru belts are $35 each. Are the factory belts 7 times better? Just kidding, but seriously which should I consider and why? Or other source even? Thanks, Eric