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Does anyone know the size, thread count, and grade of the ball joint pinch bolt? Car is a 1999 Legacy Outback. Thanks for any help rendered....the part number is 901550072 but I cant find any other information

Well, the I've seen the pump leak not only from the o ring on the reservoir, but the gasket on the back of the pump itself where the housing comes together. I know for a '99 legacy the part number for the reseal kit is 34419AA150, its pretty cheap and worth a shot

Is there any chance the engine overheated before you got it? I drove my 2.5dohc from 89,000 miles till 119,400 with all the proper maintenence and no problems at all. Until the head gaskets went. Then a mishap from a dealer led to an overheat (they never plugged the fans in after the hg job), the next day it sounded like a diesel, a couple of days after it broke down on the highway with a spun bearing. I have the records from the previous owner, they all seemed in order. Hopefully this isn't the case with your engine...but I second what mdjdc said :-\

I wouldn't be suprised if this was mechanic error, this particular dealership has had less then steller results with this car. I havent gotten to take a look at the oil pump yet, this is just what they've told me so far. What I find odd about it is, shoulden't the oil pressure light have come on if the pump did fail? I know the bulb is good because it illuminates on startup.

Anyone here ever see an oil pump in a remanufactured shortblock fail before its first oil change? The thing had less then 2k miles on it and it gave out. No oil pressure light on the dash, just some noises an engine should never make and a complete lack of power. It starved both heads for oil and developed a pleasant sounding knock... Engine was a DOHC 2.5, replaced by a dealership with all subaru parts. Its now getting another reman block and heads under warrenty.

Latest is I just got the car back last Friday, its been over 4 months. :cool: The idle is a little rough but the dealer can not explain why. Its got a new shortblock and drivers side head. Compression and leakdown tests are good, timing is correct and theres no vacuum leak. I also checked the injector wires and plug wires...its a mystery. I'm still dealing with them...all I can say is avoid Loman Subaru like the plague.

Little update....as per the mechanic the valves are adjusted correctly, compression and leakdown tests came up good, there are no vacuum leakes, the mounts are ok and the timing is dead on. This is a mystery, anyone have any ideas?

There should be white tape around one from each side, I believe those go towards the front of the car. The other two will have a black marking on them.

I've just been through every vacuum line, no leaks that I can find. I'm starting to think the mechanic did mess up my valves, looks like tomorrow the cars back in the shop

ahh crap these guys have messed up my car enough, it took them three months most of which without a loaner car (luckily SOA stepped up to the plate and paid for a rental near the end of this ordeal) I hope its a simple vacuum leak, otherwise this wont be fun

The car is a 5spd and the idle is rough with the clutch in as well as in neutral with it out:-\ Thanks for the suggestion, but I dont think thats it. I'm going to have to get a vaccum gauge I guess, and take it to someone with a feeler gauge who can check my valve lash.

Out of curiosity, what kind of damage would the engine sustain if the valves were too tight? They did have me driving the car when the valves were mis-adjusted, and this is the same head. I hope they got the clearances right, at least it no longer miss fires as it did.

Actually, now that vacuum lines have been mentioned...I noticed now that for the first time ever, the cruise control seems to have a little bit of difficulty in keeping a constant speed. Nothing major, just +- 1 or 2mph, but this is something its never had a problem with before.

I know the injectors are hooked up properly, I checked that as well. The valve clearances are something I don't have the ability to check, I certainly hope they were adjusted properly. :-\ Tomorrow I'll check the all the vacuum lines. And yeah, square one I guess...this place really messed up. Everything from allowing the car to fall off a jack, to forgetting to plug in the cooling fans, to messing up the valve clearances even ignoring a progressively worse engine knock. Can't say I'm impressed with this mechanics track record.

Well, I finally have my car back from a 3 month long ordeal in which a dealer mechanic managed to destroy a healthy DOHC EJ25. Some background, the shortblock has now been replaced as well as the drivers side head. Both are SOA remanufactured parts. Wires and plugs are new NGK and subaru wires. EGR system did bring up a P0400 code, but the valve was "cleaned" by the mechanic and is no longer causing the code. The motor mounts were checked by the mechanic and found to be good. The engine is not miss firing and does run smooth under acceleration, but the idle is rough. The rpms do hold steady though according to the tach. Its enough to shake the car when stopped at lights. The dealers mechanic can't find the problem, he recomends I drive the car for a couple of days to see if it gets better or worse. For obvious reasons, I don't have much faith in this mechanic, but I'm stuck having him do the work. Anyone have any ideas on what I should check?