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No one is taking into account the efficiancy of the inverter, I know since these things are >90% it isn't much, but since its becoming a bit of a subject...

Oil pressure sensor?

On mine there were four clips, but the lens had a sealant around the edges which made it pretty much impossible to seperate from the body. Why do you need to remove it though?

Keep in mind they don't have to be police to look like a christmas tree driving down the road. I've got a nice setup of blue lights in my OBW but its for the local fire department. Have to admit, it dosent look too bad:grin:

Same happened to my '90. I ordered another lock assembly and swapped the tumblers out. The back of the lock cylender itself actually sheered off. Plus the alloy they used makes welding or glueing damned near impossible. So yeah, replacing is the only option.

I believe '99 is the year keyless became standard, take off the panel under the steering wheel, it should be a few screws and a few plastic snaps. Tucked under the steering colum should be a black box that says keyless entry unit on it, it will have a bunch of wires coming from it.

I'm not sure about a 98, but I know my 99 OBW had a recall on the master cylender for pretty much that same thing...in the cold the brakes have no power assist.

I know this sounds stupid, but when I got mine off the lot the rear hatch was stuck also. Turns out they threw the floor mats in the trunk and it got wedged in there. Simple enough to fix. As for access to the latch mechanism, the inner pannel will come off fairly easily, theres six little plastic things on the bottom, pull the cover off each then they slide out. The top is held in with snaps. The mechanism itself is a little bit tricky to get at, the metal panel of the door kind of blocks access. Hope this helps a little.

Haha, well you could get an emergency light permit and add strobes:drunk:wish I could get a good picture of that on mine but they go off too fast, the only way really is to make a movie. It does look cool though to have the only sub on the block that can pull people over...

Well, for just a CB you could power it off the wires to the accessory socket, get some of those vampire clips if you don't want to solder. Just dont transmit and use something else that drains a lot of current in the socket at the same time. CB's don't take too much power, so it should be ok. Just wire an inline fuse on the radio to be sure. But you're probly gonna get noise in the background from the alternator, kind of like a high pitched whine. Just do not use the accessory wireing for anything bigger, like a ham radio.

That is a little wierd, the fuel warning light is independant of the rehostats that control the actual gauge. It almost sounds like something is stopping the floaters from moving. Try taking the sending units out to clean them, its possible the little bushing they ride in got jammed up.

Hold on, I just remembered that the when these switches are installed you purposely break the bolt head off. So if you do get a used switch you're still going to need new bolts...or to find a new method of installation.:cool:

Well, I'm not sure about an ignition switch, but I've swapped tumblers over in a door lock. It just takes a few minutes really. Imagine my suprise last year when I went to unlock the door and the key did a 360 yet nothing happened:drunk:. Once the old switch is out it may be worth taking a look at on the bench, just don't mess with the new(er) one unless you're sure you can dissassemble and reassemble it.

Well, if it helps I've got a 99 OBW and its DOHC, the circular impressions on the over are clearly visible, so you shouldent have to pull the cover off.

Make sure the bulb is in fact good first, just turn the key to on but don't start the engine. The bulb should light. Sounds like it could be the idle air control valve. It could be a vacume leak though.

Wow....I wish I knew about these earlier, thank you very much:grin:

Would anyone happen to have the wireing diagram or at least pinout for a 1999 legacy(outback, not that that part matters) dash cluster? I went out to just buy a chiltons manual for this but I cant find anything on a 99 yet. Any help would be appreciated, but this is no rush....nothing is broken at least:rolleyes:

86K on a 99 OBW Phase 1 2.5 (second owner, first seems to have taken it to the dealer for everything, but no HG) and no problems. Coolant looks clean, engine runs great, never overheated while I've been driving it.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, if the light is steadily flashing, thats bad news. In that case don't go driving.

It probly is emmissions related, take it to autozone, they'll read the codes for free for you. As far as safety in driving, it shouldent hurt much, drove my '90 legacy for over a year with the CEL steady on and 7 miscelanious sensor codes, only reason I traded it in was rust. Still ran great.

Just get a wireing harness from someplace like best(aka worst)buy. You'll get ripped off for 17.99 but it'll have the correct colors, and you dont need to hack off your old connector.Or...befriend someone who works there and the part becomes 1.89 or so. Hmm...wonder why I quit that place now:-\

Strange...I have a 99OBW with the same problem, but only have one remote(thanks to it being a used car). The light comes on but does not always work. Im gonna diagnose it after the holidays though, if I find anything I'll post.

I can relate to that emergency responder 'get up and go' stuff, but my old '90 legacy didnt seem to mind too much. The new (to me) 99OBW takes it well too, its just kind of annoying to get to the firehouse at 3:00 in the morning for a false alarm just to turn around and go home again....or worse yet get a first aid call for someone with stomach pain because they didn't eat dinner:banghead: I do admit though, giving it an extra few minutes in the morning before I begin my commute is worth it, well..heat is nice at least:cool:

Diodes scary? Nah, think of them as a one way street, it just lets the electricity go one way. Well...and drops the voltage a little tiny bit, but forget about that for now. And transistors? Basicly think of them as a switched diode......now...large scale integrated circuits:drunk:thats the fun one:banghead: Anyway, if anyone decides to make a circuit to control this thing lemme know, I can probly provide some assistance. If I drove an auto I'd be out there right now working on it.

Does it seem like the pedal pulses a bit with each creak? Its a possibility your rotors need to be milled/replaced...just a thought