dmanaenk
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Posts posted by dmanaenk
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Water pump was done with TB job last summer. It was new and oem. Tensioner also was also new and oem, as were all other rollers and pulleys, put on by a decent mechanic that works at subaru dealership. Around 120k miles on the car now.
Kinda hard to describe noise more precisely, its not exactly metallic, more like marble rattling/smth getting chopped by a fan I would say.
Engine bay looked fine in the light of a flash light, will take a closer look tomorrow.
Personally I think its a spun rod, but I didn't have any experience with those and don't know if they can develop that quickly with no prior signs and cause the car not to start.
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Er, thanks. Any thoughts on the topic?
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While taking my exit from the highway the car quickly developed some crackling/rattling/marbly sound coming from the engine. Related to rmps (or possibly to turbo rmps) and most pronounced while giving it gas. Was able to make it to the second traffic light and died there. With some effort and lots of gas pedal application I was able to start it (was probably a very stupid thing to do) and make it two more blocks (where it died at the stop light again) so that I can park it and walk home. While making these two blocks sounds were very loud, car was very sluggish. Before going home quickly checked oil level (fine, and does not leak in general), transmission oil level (fine) and coolant (fine). No CEL's before today, did not check if there are any now. It did not smoke while making these noises, although I think I did smell a bit of oil, but not too sure.
Before this it did not really have any drivability problems, car drove fine until the very moment noises developed. It did have some issue related to water temp sensor (I think - it was not starting on the second try if it did not fully warm up). And I did not drive the car for 2-3 days, and it seemed just a tad slow to start relative to usual when I was driving it to a couple of places today.
I need ideas for some simple things to check tomorrow, before calling AAA and having it towed to my mechanic. A little background, car is 5spd 94 legacy turbo, no engine mods, timing belt with all oem pulleys/rollers/tensioner done last summer, tune up (plugs, wires) last spring.
The only two simple things I can think of that I can check with a wrench on a car parked on the street - dying alternator with seized bearing, or dead and seized up turbo, and I'm not even sure those can have such simptoms. Any other ideas?
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Ok, tried pulling belts while braking and they do lock up, should be enough for daily drving for now. And if I see belts that lock up when pulled on some junkyard legacys - I'll swap mine. And I was thinking about harness/bar for rally/auto-x anyway.
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There's the two weights that lock the belt when it's pulled out hard enough, but there is often anothe weight that swings based on the motion of the body to lock the seatbelts. This is the one that locks the belts when you're on an offcamber hill or stopping/accelerating hard. The flywheights, which lock when you jerk the seatbelt, may be gummed up. The inertia lock weight may still be fine. Only real way to test is go out and hammer on the brakes, and see if the belt holds you back. The seatbelt retractors on your car are mounted in the center console. It's wicked easy to get to, there's usually a screw in the compartment under the elbow rest, and a couple on the side. Pull up the shifter boot surround, and undo the screws there. Pull on the handbrake, and slide the center console out over it. That will give you a good look at the shoulder belt retractors. The lap belt retractors are in the B-pillar.
Thanks, I'm gonna get to shoulder belts tomorrow, but how hard is it to get to lap ones? Do I have to pull b-pillar and carpet?
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They have a little counter weight in them. The only real way to find out is to do a control hard stop and see if they hold. Pulling them out fast doesnt always work.
nipper
Don't think so. I could easily generate acceleration comparable with hard stop with pulling the belt hard enough.
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I wonder if this has to do with the presence of an airbag? Maybe they don't want you locked in with the belt with the airbag present.
No, its exactly the opposite in those years - they have to lock you in for airbag to do its job. Way later models (not sure any subarus do it) can adjust airbag power depending on seat belt status.
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You can test this by yanking on the seat belt very fast, and it should lock in position. I know the back belts in my 91 did.
Yes, that's what I did, and they won't lock. The rears lock when I pull them less than third as fast as the front ones (and that's about the same as I have to pull the belts on my 96 to lock them.
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Yeah, that seemed a little odd that all 4 fronts won't lock. But why rear ones do? So is there a way to test if they lock? Like step on the brake while parked and pull?
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Just picked up a 94 for some autox/rallycross action, usually troublesome retraction works etc, but when you pull hard on either shoulder or lap belt - they just won't lock in place, so pretty useless and dangerous. True of all front belts. Rear belts are fine and lock like they should.
I'm new to 1st gen, so maybe I'm missing smth and there is some electrical issue afterall (belt light is not on)?
So the question how hard is it to fix(?)/replace?
I can't find any instructions so far, nothing in Haynes too, and I suppose all the 2nd generation FSMs I have are useless. I downloaded 90 FSM supplement but the relevant part is missing there.
Seems like shoulder belt should be just an issue of going to the j/y and taking the belt. But I have no idea how to get to lap belt, do I have to pull the carpet etc?
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Uhm.... why?
This oil has less than 30min run time on it. Along with the new filter.
-Brian
Your injectors were working all the time, and quite a bit of gas probably made its way into oil, thinning it.
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Congratulations! Change the oil too.
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Tapping that goes away when warmed up - piston slap, its a feature. Tapping sound that does not go away, hm. I'd walk away, although it could be that engine just needs valve adjustment. As for coolant leak, go for a test drive, then park, put some paper towels under the pass side head, and see. Also you might be able to smell it while driving.
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Thought I should post back.
Got back home on wednesday.
I have thought about it (and looked at weather forecast for wed.: -20F ) and took nippers advice - paid to fix it
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Thanks guys.
I'll call around tomorrow, to see if there are used oem axles on some local j/y and install quotes, if I don't like them, I'll just buy a spare axle, some grease and probably smth to put the grease onto the joint on the road (don't know yet, turkey baster maybe?). Does it make sense to duct-tape over the split boot with fresh grease, or not really cause it will fall off very soon anyway?
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Yeah, I'm probably gonna try to limp home in few days, and buy one in autozone to have in the trunk during the trip, just in case mine blows up, so that I don't have to wait for some random shop to look around for a replacement.
So what's the theory/practice on what happens if the joint blows up on the highway (I have a 50/50 split MT) apart from possible damage to the underbody/brake lines etc? I suppose first front looses all the torque, then as VC heats up it (the side that did not get blown up) might get some torque. I'm just wondering if it will try to put me into the ditch, or just loose power a lot but drive straight.
What concerns me also is overheating my wheel bearing...
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Long story short: got occasional bad vibration/clicking/rubbing/grinding at highway speeds, split (for a while) CV boot, clicking in turns. Will it go 400 miles or I should pay to fix it?
So, I have split CV boot on OEM axle (I think) since august (put maybe 6k miles on it). No clicking or any other symptoms for that matter until now. Today, halfway through 400 mile trip I first get some occasional jolts in the steering wheel (the car goes straight) then few minutes later, get mild vibration. Take first exit, inspect everything, have tires checked for balance. After checking it starts clicking in left turns. So I decide to go on HW, after like 10-20 miles with no vibration I decide not to turn back, and in another 50 miles it comes back with more vibration, clicking, rubbing,grinding while driving straight. I take exit to cool down for like 2-3 minutes and it goes away for another 20-30 miles and so on. I stopped doing cool down stops after I got within 100 mile range (so that AAA can tow me to my destination
), and vibration/rubbing/grinding would come on once in a while and go away. Now I'm away from home for a few days (Evanton, IL), only basic tools (few sockets, 1/2 breaker bar, torque wrench up to 120lbs-ft I thinkg, only stock jack), don't want to get cheap lifetime warranty type axles in local stores. There's a dealer here, so I can probably get an OEM reman axle installed around $300+.The question is - should I get it fixed here, or how it makes it 400 miles (ok 300 +100 on tow
) so I can get a MWE axle and put it in myself?Your advice, guys?
Thanks
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Price seems right for the complete kit, but I doubt that its in stock. Paid about that more than a year ago for a Legacy. Install was very easy.
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I'll take that wrx wheel, hehe
Good that you're ok.
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Why would you want a ribbed tube? If you do get custom tube - at least get a smooth one. No idea what the stock box does, but definitely not blocking the sound. I don't have the box from factory and the sound is fine. Silencer is in the fender.
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sounds inner tie rod/steering rack/rack bushing related.
Start with the bushings, it's easy assuming you don't break off a bolt.
When was the alignment done?
Already ordered bushings. Will start with those an hope it helps. While changing those will try to have a closer look and what's moving when the wheel is moved.
Alignment is less than a month old, and did not affect the issue.
I myself would lean towards the inner tie rod (*thinking* if the rack was loose you would see/feel it on both sides).You don't mention your car's mileage,
I can think of really bad bushing on one side, so that rack can slide up/down a little and when I push the wheel - tierod just bends up a little at ball joint. Will have to take a closer look
Milage is at 125k.
Anyway, what usually goes bad in inner tierods? Ball joint? All the pictures I have seen call for removal of rack to change inner tierods, can this be done on the car?
As someone who lives near the windy city, I can't tell you how how many times I've thought something was wrong with my alignment only to realize it is just really strong wind. You may really have an issue. I'm just saying the wind can really blow around here. Sometimes you just can't keep it straight no matter what condition you're front end is in.Yeah, it did not bother me while driving in IL, since, usually, once I got to WI the issue almost went away. But, of course, a local climate change can never be discounted as an explanation
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A problem is developing. Started a few months ago while driving around IL and felt like being blown off the road (not present on numerous previous trips to IL). Now on highway I frequently feel how the car surges (nothing major, just feel laternal acceleration) to one side or another, and have to do minor corrections. Depends a lot on the surface and wind. The issue definitely was not there last fall.
Now to some diagnostics:
Major symptom: If I jack up left front wheel - I can rotate it a little front-back (not up-down) and the tie rod moves with the wheel. So, I take it, its not wheel bearing or ball joint/tie rod end?
Right front wheel is tight.
Other stuff:
Alignment is fine, all wheels are recently balanced with around 50% tread remaining, tire pressures +3psi from spec all around, no slop in steering wheel (while parked, engine off, I move a steering wheel just bit - wheels also move), PS fluid level is fine and no visible leaks.
At the moment is sounds like a steering rack, mainly because of absence of the same symptom on the right front wheel. If there was some movement there I would have thought these were caused by bad rack bushings. Can this be caused by bad bushing only on one side?
Any other thoughts?
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All brighton and 95-96 L Legacies have rear drums, and from 97-01 rear discs were an option on ABS equipped L models. All the LS, LSi, and GT cars have rear discs.
Not true.
All Brightons- true. FWD 95's - true. 95 L had rear disks std., on 96 rear disks +abs were an option, 97+ L had rear disks std.
2012 Subaru Forester: Oil in Coolant
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by dmanaenk
Doesn't have oil cooler either, that the H6.