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About dburton97128

  • Rank
    New User
  • Birthday 05/30/1955

Profile Information

  • Location
    McMinnville, OR
  • Referral
    you made me come here to complete my profile.
  • Biography
    Oregon, Subaru Legacy L wagon 1995. I replaced all the drive line with parts from a 1992 after the tranny went out. Even the Diff since the gear rations were different from the original.
  • Vehicles
    1995 Subaru Legacy L wago
  1. I replaced the tensioners, guides and chains. ~2k mi and so far so good. (5 hrs at 90 mph cruising since I forgot about the time zone one hour loss on a trip I was making. Thank goodness for 80 mph speed limits). Haven't heard any more chain rattle sounds. After the repair I did an engine flush and dropped the pan and cleaned it out. Some sludge in the low spot around the magnet, but didn't see anything concerning.
  2. My local dealer got me the right one from clear across the country in 2 days for only a $5 expedite fee. I'm happy enough.
  3. $9 for a pack of 50. What a deal. Are these going to be the some composition as OEM? Thanks.
  4. Does anyone know the OEM specs for this orange O-ring? For 2003 Outback H6. 806919080 So much trouble to find a $6 O-ring. If I new OEM specs maybe I could find one elsewhere. Want this one to be correct though. My cars down for a week or more if I can't find a substitute. ID ~19mm OD ~24.5mm thickness ~2mm Thanks.
  5. It's the passenger side chain because it's as if the chain between the P side cam sprockets is a bit too long. Chains on the pulling sides are as tight as they can get without running the engine. The non-pulling side is tensioned only by the tensioner springs.
  6. The driver side chain looked the same as the new one. The P side chain appeared to be a tiny bit stretched compared to the new one. It improved the alignment by about half, but there is still a little bit (maybe 1/8 of a sprocket tooth) misalignment between the P side cam sprockets.
  7. I carefully re-checked this multiple times. Chains are under tension and cranked in the driving direction. Either this is normal or it could be the P side chain is stretched. I ordered new chains and will report if it makes any difference.
  8. I notice a slight misalignment in my timing marks on the Passenger side when the Drive side cams are lined up. Is this a normal or does this indicate stretching of the P side chain? Alignment is off by about 1/4 tooth between the upper and lower sprockets. P side: D side:
  9. In replacing the center small guide a spacing of 8.4-8.6 mm is specified. From the dwg in the manual it's not totally clear to me the reference planes for that measurement. It looks like the back of the bushing on the right side, and I'm not quite sure on the left, though it looks like the front face of the guide (if that's a small gap between the face of the bushing and the chain in the diag.
  10. I did find several suppliers ranging from $700 for a more stripped engine to $1300-1700 for a complete engine. I decided I don't really want to swap an engine so I'll replace everything in this one that looks like it would be iffy to go another 100k miles and hope for the best. While I have the tensioners and pressure relief plate off I'll back flush whatever passages I can to make sure they are clear and see if any residue comes out. Is there anything I need to be careful about while doing that? I'll use 0W-20 oil for that. After re-assembly I'll run it a day then do an engine flush and then a fresh oil change. I'll check the pan with a bore scope camera and if it looks like there is any build up in the pan I'll drop that and clean it up as well. Here's to hoping for the best.
  11. That looks legit. They don't show stock status for my motor. I'll call them tomorrow. Thanks.
  12. It looks like I don't get to check (or replace) the oil pump. Those bolts are ridiculously tight. Supposed to be put on with 4.7FP, but even with 30-40 FP they aren't coming loose. One began to cam out so that ends that. No room for an impact driver in there, if that would even work. I see older year H6 motors from JDM on ebay, but my security says they have malware and won't let me go to their web page. No warranty on those motors unless I am a certified mechanic doing the install. Maybe I'll just do what I can on this one and go for a replacement later if it doesn't hold up.
  13. Makes sense. But back to the cam chain tension issues: I'm copying this from another forum post in case anyone over here knows about it. --- I'm checking my oil pressure relief valve and pump and finding very sparse info about the PRV. Is there a procedure for checking the relief valve? I can pressurize one port with air until it starts to flow. What should the relief pressure be? Do I dare take the end cap off to clean and inspect it? Those are NLA so a good check and restore of this one is in order. *** There is a protrusion with an orifice that spays oil on the chain. The oriface was not plugged, but there is a small plastic piece behind it with a tiny screen. That screen is no more. A remaining fragment proved to be basically decomposed and turned to dust at the slightest touch. This part does not appear in the parts guides. Must be a part of the NLA PRV assembly. I can't imagine them making you buy a $200 part to replace a $3 screen though. Any info on that screen? Thanks.
  14. How about the Amsoil 5W-50? That seems it would help alleviate the cold start issue some, though you are probably using the 'racing' oil for other reasons as well. The 40C viscosity is still higher than the other oils, but I didn't see data for actual cold temperatures. I thought I saw a graph of real data somewhere that showed Amsoil 5w-30 vs 10W-30 and there was no difference above about 20F.
  15. I believe that is a legitimate point. The article gives quite a bit of rational for increasing hot viscosity as engines age older. His point though is that you need to be monitoring oil pressure vs rpm at operating temperature to be able to make that decision correctly. I'm thinking if there is chain rattle at low rpm or a situation as you described above then increasing weight a bit until it resolves would be a good thing, though at the expense of a bit of fuel economy. A key point he makes though is to use an oil that retains the proper low viscosity at low temperatures so you get good oil flow when cold. There are great options today with 0W-30 even up to 5W-50. I'm sold on good synthetics even more now since seeing all the varnish in my current car. I've run synthetics in all cars for the last 35 years and never had an engine lubrication related failure. My truck has over 200k mi and I started it on synthetic after the first oil change with a bypass filter. I changed oil 3 times in 200k mi, and each time the oil was still good for continued use. I notice things like my valves never need adjustment. The gaps remain the same, in my imagination indicating minuscule wear in the engine. The only exception has been my Toyota Cressida which my daughter ran out of oil and drove until it seized.