dburton97128

Not a spark plug problem, sparks plugs don't fail all at once like this. Could have been total absence of spark, maybe coil or something, but I would have thought I would get a code for that. Check engine light on but that is expected when the engine is not running. Goes out a few seconds after starting. It was not particularly cold. ~125,000 mi. I'll look into the fuel pump cap issue. Does sound like that could be it. I'd like to identify exactly what parts my car might need before opening it up. Hopefully can figure that out from that thread. BTW this is actually a 2003, not 2004. Thanks.

My 2003 H6 failed to start the other day. It turned over and fired for a fraction of a second and then just cranked with no attempt to fire at all. I checked the oil and it was at the low line so I filled it up. It still would not start, but after craning for 10-15 seconds several times it started to fire roughly and then began to run fine. It's been running perfectly ever since. I was wondering if there was some kind of low oil sensor that was kicking in but see nothing about that. There were no codes thrown when it was failing to start or after. Any idea what this might have been? Wouldn't like to be stranded anywhere if it happens again. Thanks.

Got the key code deciphered at the local key shop for $18. 3 additional keys for $13 more. Seems to have worked. Was able to get one key to work with persuasion and drove it in to the shop.

Thanks. I called around and did find a local guy who thinks he can do it without removing anything by reading the key profile or probing the lock. Here's hoping it's just the key and the ignition is still OK. $25 vs $500.

So my 2003 Outback LLBean H6 ignition keys started hanging up when inserted and won't turn. My original, which may be worn a bit as well, barely works with persuasion. Subaru won't do me a key. They threw away all the key codes older than 10 years. Why in their right mind would they do that? Dealer wants $500 to put in a new ignition that then would not match the doors. What's the chance it's just a key problem and the ignition is still good? Not sure I can be without the car long enough to tear it all out and send to NY and back, but don't want to get totally stranded either. Are there any Subaru lock experts in OR who could do this? If I had a chart for my key like that above I could maybe program it to cut on my milling machine Anyone ever tear open an ignition and re-condition it somehow? Thanks.

Well running premium does up the pep but doesn't change the shifting behavior. Double pumping the accelerator to pass works fairly nicely though. Still need to get around to checking the TPS.

Well I'll look at it again next time I do it and see if I actually can get my hand up there and grip enough to tighten fully. Thanks.

Good info. Didn't know about the 2nd gear position forcing 2nd instead of 1st. Don't really know if I would need 1st or 2nd when pulling out. Probably depends on how much I needed to slow down before merging. All I know is a 2 or 3 second delay to get out of OD or 3rd is the pits for merging in traffic or turning through short gaps in heavy oncoming traffic.

The biggest problem with this occurs when I have decelerated to a relatively slow speed (10-30 mph) and then need it to kick into 2nd or even 1st to accelerate into traffic, which is more troublesome to do manually because of the jog. Also mine won't shift into 1st manually if the car is moving.

I'm thinking if there is a problem this is most likely the TPS. Something must signal the tranny to downshift and I assume that is the issue. Haven't noticed much to complain about at high speed, it's not as big an issue, though it does still take it a bit to decide to downshift. It's not like the shifting is slow, but more like it is delayed. Once it decides to shift the shift is smooth and appropriate.

No codes. Tranny fluid has had full flush and replace recently. New tranny filter. No extra flashing lights. Recent plug change as well. It could be a TPS issue, but I haven't looked more closely at that. I think this one is still cable actuated. Would be nice to know how it is supposed to perform if everything is right.

Well there's no way for any reasonable hand to get in there to tighten this filter. Unless you have ultra tiny and ultra superman grip finger tips.

There is no way to fit this on the filter of this car. The filter is recessed up in the exhaust manifold and the only access is from the bottom, so a socket cap wrench is the way to go. A strap wrench with extension can work, but it's easy to damage the filter casing at the winch point.

My 2003 H6 Outback transmission seems to work very well and shifting is very smooth but I have one complaint. When attempting to accelerate quickly it is very slow to respond and downshift. When starting from a full stop it's fine, but if I'm moving forward at much speed it seems to want to stay in high gear. If I floor it sometimes it's 2-3 seconds before it will downshift. This has caused me some embarrassment a few time when trying to pull in to traffic and merge and the car just does not go. There is no floor mat obstruction. I've seen a few threads where this is complained about but no real solutions mentioned. Ideally I would have the performance button to resolve this but this car is not equipped with that and it's apparently not feasible to add. My daughters Impreza 2.5i has very impressive throttle response even with the smaller engine. (electronic throttle) I've seen mention of removing the battery to get some algorithm to re-learn something. It that really a thing? Any suggestions or is this just the way it is? Thanks.

Thanks for the tips. I'll use an alternate filter from now on. Seems the Bosch is recommended as best quality/cost option from some on line reviews. I'm going to take in my wrench and make sure it fits when I buy one.

I bought genuine Subaru 15208AA12A oil filters for my daughters Impreza. First thing I noticed is they don't fit my filter socket wrench. The old non- Subaru filter on the car fit it fine, but the Subaru filter is 0.020" larger across the flats and the wrench will not go on. The next issue is the filter says rotate 7/8 turn after contacting the gasket. These filters bottom out after 3/4 turn. After I bent a dent in the first one I installed after trying to get past 3/4T with a strap wrench and socket extension I installed a second one which also bottomed out at 3/4 turn so I left it at that. Is this expected? Thanks, David B

Oh, just saw that post. Best idea yet.

I bolted the rotor down and lowered the pbrake drum portion down on a wood block and that worked fine. You could bolt an old rotor on upside down to lower on to if you feel more comfortable not putting pressure on the installed rotor. Also if you have an old steel rim wheel you could bolt it on upside down as well. If a tire is mounted it may not clear the fender though. It seems I was able to get about 70 ft lb on the bolts with the crescent wrench and tire on, so that probably would have held it in place well enough for completing the tightening with the wheel off.

Supposedly this bolt (long one at the bottom of the rear hub/shock housing) is supposed to be torqued with the wheels on and loaded with the vehicle weight. With the wheels on I see no possible way to get a torque wrench on either end of that bolt. Best I can get is a large crescent or open/box end wrench. I figure I would need to be able to pull about 150 lbs on that wrench to get to 103 ftlb. Not sure I can manage that. How do you do this properly? I could remove the wheels and bolt up the discs and lower the car down onto a block of wood, but don't want to over stress the discs by doing that. This bolt was out for removing axles to do rear wheel bearings. 2006 2.5i Thanks.

Sounds more complicated than is worth, at least for the models in that thread. Don't see anything specific about my model yet.

If my 2003 subaru outback LLB H6 does not have sport mode button can I add it? Does that require a new computer, or what? Thanks.

I replaced the tensioners, guides and chains. ~2k mi and so far so good. (5 hrs at 90 mph cruising since I forgot about the time zone one hour loss on a trip I was making. Thank goodness for 80 mph speed limits). Haven't heard any more chain rattle sounds. After the repair I did an engine flush and dropped the pan and cleaned it out. Some sludge in the low spot around the magnet, but didn't see anything concerning.

My local dealer got me the right one from clear across the country in 2 days for only a $5 expedite fee. I'm happy enough.

$9 for a pack of 50. What a deal. Are these going to be the some composition as OEM? Thanks.

Does anyone know the OEM specs for this orange O-ring? For 2003 Outback H6. 806919080 So much trouble to find a $6 O-ring. If I new OEM specs maybe I could find one elsewhere. Want this one to be correct though. My cars down for a week or more if I can't find a substitute. ID ~19mm OD ~24.5mm thickness ~2mm Thanks.