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wrenchturner

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  1. Well, I spoke with the tech who put the timing belt on at the sears place, he said it made "bad noises", did not run at all and had no compression. He also said two idler/tensoner pulleys were bad and a bolt was torn out of the water pump. I think this car may be for sale soon if a fair priced remedy does not come up (he is searching for his title) anyone still interested in trying to repair it still? I can put you in touch with the owner or interested in buying it as well, PM for contact info, Thanks, Scott
  2. Thanks for the replies guys, I will forward the offers/suggestions to the young guy with the car, I knew people would step up to help out! Thanks, Scott
  3. Hey everybody, I am in NH. and one of my best customers has a son who dropped the timing belt and apparently did valve damage in Bellingham Wa. ( a Sears auto center put a water pump and belt on it and it ran very poorly so they took the parts back and are charging labor only) the car is high miles 200k+ and a standard trans. Anyone out there know who or where he should see to get the car revived for a reasonable price? I am thinking that with the miles it has popping a decent used ej22 in it would be the best bet however I am sure they would listen to options. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Scott:headbang:
  4. A good friend of mine calls them a "dongle" it is there to help cancel out resonant frequencies in the intake air stream, it's not needed but you will need to plug the hole with something more than a shop rag. You could wrap that part of the tube with duct tape or push a rubber plug in it if you had one large enough, hope this helps some, Scott
  5. The PCV should be located to the left of the throttle body (in relation to yourself standing in front of the car looking at it) , it is threaded into the manifold and points toward the passenger's rear of the engine compartment. The hoses from the valve covers are vent hoses , they join together back behind the engine and I believe are hooked into the air intake tube for the engine. As an odd side note it appears that on the 2002 ej25 I recently acquired the PCV is threaded into the block and a smaller diameter tube runs up to a hose fitting in the manifold where the PCV used to reside on the older engines, hope this helps, Scott
  6. I would back your opinion of the plate leaking on the rear of the block and the mechanic "finding a conventional answer" for the leakage. Up and down wear of the crank on a horizontally opposed would seem counter intuitive. I personally would put the engine back in and try it, but I would be doing the work myself and have the option of "throwing the labor away" and only being out the time (and some coolant and such). Just my 2 cents for what it's worth, Scott
  7. Thanks for the leads, the '99 ej22 is missing the MAP sensor port, otherwise the wiring swap would be straight up, I will be holding off until I find the manifold at this point. Scott
  8. Well, this keeps getting more twisted as it goes, I got the manifold back, it was a site to behold, reassembled the fuel plumbing, throttle body, wiring etc.. parts car showed up yesterday, opened the hood, says it's a '98, but the manifold looks oddly familiar, like the one I cut up to make the mutant hybrid out of . Pried the driver's door open, (car was a totalled roll over) salvage tag..... uh oh . So I got a series 2 ej22 parts car when I was expecting a series one ej22, I have a cross breed manifold for a series 1 ej22 into a 2002 series 2 ej25, and no series 2 ej25 manifold to bolt onto my series 2 ej22 that I have now. Anyone out there have an 02 ej25 manifold they would like to part with? Scott
  9. Well, the manifold has gone off to the local welding wizard, he did not think it would be any problem to weld up the pieces I fit together, I may have it back by Wednesday, further updates to follow. Scott
  10. Well, it's certainly not reasonable but I am doing it anyway, after much thought, measuring, research and head scratching I have decided a "mutant hybrid" intake is the solution to putting the 97 ej22 in the 02 Outback, all the sensor ports and the "air assist" injector seats have been hacked off and fit to the ej22 intake. Now to get it all welded up.
  11. The potential for bearing failure is exactly why I chose not to mill the heads, it does not knock right now, but 6 mos. from now?. I have a fairly well equipped shop and it's my labor so pulling the motor again is no biggie. The gaskets and such only came to about $200 . I guess if I were to try and save the engine in it the only real solution would a complete rebuild, otherwise I would rather try doing a reseal and install one that was not "cooked" . The smell of the oil in it was about enough to make me sick , I figured if I could install new headgaskets and have it be OK for now I would run it and keep an eye open for another engine that I figured I would eventually need anyway, I just need to do it sooner not later and I have tons of faith in the EJ22 motors durability. Scott
  12. The most cost effective engine I have found locally is $1300, I already have the EJ22, but if it takes 100 man hours to make it work it would hardly be worth it. Scott
  13. Hey Guys, I've searched high and low and have not found the definitive answer I seek, I purchased a 2002 Outback ej25 sohc for cheap, with bad headgaskets, pulled motor, new gaskets (oem) reinstalled, skip is gone but it still pushes MUCH! air out the radiator when running. I did not get the heads milled, the engine had been overheated bad enough to melt the timing cover near the oil filter so I figured it was a calculated risk. I have a good ej22 from a 97 impreza with trans. and all wiring. I understand the 4 bolts/8 bolts bellhousing thing and apparently the ej22 intake does not swap with the 2002 ej25 sohc engine ,right? I'm no noob to mechanics, it is what I do, and have done since I was young (lots of crappy cars and no cash had benefits I guess) I can have the car down for as long as needed, it's a 3rd vehicle at this point. Oh, and on an unrelated note my 1997 Legacy Gt runs a 94 ej22 and passes OBD2 inspection, I drilled a hole in the "y" pipe and extended the egr tube from the '97 intake down to meet it, it works , has been on the road over a year like this and throws no codes. Just figured I would mention it. Anyway, suggestions?
  14. I've become a big fan of the old standby, pegboard and various hooks. I am as much pack rat as anyone but I am fighting the sickness, the day I was busily working, tripped over some s@@t and stepped right into a drain pan of warm waste oil was a major turning point! I still have one side of my shop full of toys/parts/etc. but the one clean and organized side gets comments all the time. At a certain point spending an hour to find that $10 part you know you have somewhere just doesn't cut it anymore, and purging the "dead weight" is strangely liberating.
  15. Well thanks to all you guys for operating this message board and being so helpful!I replaced the rear clutch assy. with used that I picked up at local salvage yard for $40 ,$10 trans. fluid and about 10hrs. labor total by the time I was done. I have the manual overide switch fot the duty solenoid and if my trans. temp light can be trusted I have a good TCU and solenoid system.Weather here in the Northeast has been alternately spring or blizzard so I am already thanking the AWD for making my travel easier. Thanks again to all, this board is awesome.
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