dbullen

The stock tire size for my 2003 outback h6 is 225 60 16. Would I be okay running 215 65 16. Or would I risk scraping the sides? I believe the diameter is approx two fifths an inch larger in the 215s.

Noise Ended up being the Transmission, quote from the dealership was around $5K. Luckily I ended up finding a subaru tech from a dealership in another town who is very knowledgable and does work on the side. He ended up Rebuilding the tranmission for me. $500 parts and $500 Labour.

Front Tires both have wear on inside and outside edges, dunno if it's from previous owner not rotating tires or the car needs an alignment. My plan was to replace front tires with some used tires (Exact model tire I currently have) with the same amount of tread remaining on back (about 80%) I would make sure I measured the circumference to make sure they match. I believe as long as circumference is within 1/2" they are fine to run?

Finally found a tire shop that knew what they were talking about, the two models are 100 percent the exact same other then the writing on the side, the ones ending in qz are whitewalls, the others are blackwall writing. But I will measure circumference when I get them mounted just to be sure.

Tirerack.com shows the OE tires as Potenza RE92's (97H). The sidewall pic and tread pic on tirerack.com look exactly the same as my E92QZ (97H). So i'm guessing they must be the same tire. I would be buying two used tires RE92's with the same tread depth as the two E92QZ tires I would be leaving on the back of the car. I just wish I had a way to confirm this 100% as I don't want to do damage to the car.

I have a 2003 Outback H6. The tires on the car right now are bridgestone Potenza E92QZ (97h). The two front tires are worn down along the outside edge so I need to replace those two. However I can't find that model of tire anywhere, not even any info on it anywheres on the web in regards to diameter or circumference. The bridgestone Potenza 92E model looks like the tread is the same (From looking at pictures online). Wondering if anyone would have any suggestions on if I should replace the two front tires with 92E's or would I risk doing damage. I believe the E92QZ were stock tires the cars came with new, but that's a guess.

Thanks a lot, oil was changed after dealership fixed the issue. I don't remember hearing any popping noises at all, just a bearly noticable misfire at idle. Need to have a provincial inspection done friday, will have the dealership take a peak. I'm really hoping it's not the cats.

Thanks for all the help!

Here is a diagram of exaust, I guess it looks like there is two front O2 Sensors, and I'm guessing bank 1 is the passengers side? Same side that the timing was off (Cylinder 1,3,5) . My mechanic who did the work originally and messed it up I do remember him saying if the timing was off it could somehow possibly ruin the cats?

Would I have two Front O2 Sensors?

129,000 miles, don't have service history so not sure if O2 Sensor was replaced before. The cost of O2 Sensor sounds much more reasonable! Am I doing any damage if I leave it? Just reset code and was going to see if it comes back. Anything I can test to see if the O2 Sensor is the problem?

Car seems to have been running fine since fixed until today. Check engine came on light again. Read the code, P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). Does this sound like the Cat is bad? possible due to the timing being off? Or could this be that the timing is still off somehow and still causing a problem? or maybe something else all together.

All fixed, took it to the dealership, passengers side chain was two teeth off, no damage done luckily, just another 9 hours of labour @ 80/hr

Tensioners were making a noise and had it checked at two subaru dealers who said it was the tensioners that needed to be replaced. Yeah I think i'm looking at 5-8 hours of labour @ 80/hr. Car is being worked on as we speak.

Thanks a lot for the info. The subaru dealer is about a 30 minute drive, I wonder if I should drive there or have it towed.

Got a code reader today, misfire code on cylinder 1,3 and 5. I'm guessing this indicates the timing is off. My mechanic doesn't have time to look at it again for a week so I guess I will take it into the dealer and have them fix the problem, I really hope there has been no damage done. I assume they will have to take everything apart again to set the timing? Should have just got them to do the tensioners in the first place.

If the timing is off by one link could this potential damage the valves?

Going to have my mechanic check it out tomorrow, will see if he can figure it out. If I read the codes would it give a code for the timing being off, or would it just be a misfire code, I assume if I get a misfire code it will just tell me the cylinder and that's about it?

Reset ECU as stated above, on first restart ( I did not touch anything) within about 1-2 minutes the Check Engine light came back (Blinking). According to manual it appears as if Blinking is Misfire code, hopefully the code reader will tell me more tomorrow. Now i'm questioning on whether the timing could be off, or if maybe he missed plugging something back in.

The car is warm as I had it running for a while, just shut it off about 15 minutes ago, should I wait for it too cool down for a while before trying this?

He didn't have a scanner at home, and he only has the GM Dealer ones at work. I will grab a code reader tomorrow and read the codes and see what it says. Do you think it's possible this has anything to do with the ECU having to relearn?

My Neighbor (Who is a licensed tech, works at GM Dealer) did it for me. He had marked the chain, and it did not move at all while he was replacing each tensioner. The engine sounds fine once your driving, or giving some gas in neutral. Just at idle the rpms flucuate and if you just tap the gas a little it almost stalls. - No fuel smell as far as I can tell

2003 Outback H6 - Just had both timing chain tensioners replaced - Battery was unplugged for about 5 days - After getting the car back, it seems to be idling up and down, almost stalling at times - Check engine light blinks while idleing in park - Stays on steady while driving. Any thoughs on what this might be?

You are correct according to factory service manual it needs to be tightened to 178 Nm or 131 ft lb