2X2KOB

Was the code reset? Does it come back repeatedly, once reset? Sometimes you can reset these and they stay gone.

It was my fault, the property was posted. Very small sign, though. So I paid them off this morning, got the car back, seems to work fine. The boss there said that they always tow AWD cars with two wheels on a dolly and two wheels in the air, and he said that's the way they did mine. I looked underneath it and it doesn't look any different than it did last week. I think it'll be all right. Thanks for all the responses.

So, this weekend we went down to the ball game and I parked someplace I should not have parked, and they towed my car about 40 miles away and are holding it hostage until I get down there this morning with $275 ransom money. I have no idea if they towed it with all four wheels off the ground, or with just the front wheels up. I don't imagine they'll tell me, either. My question is, how can I tell if the transmission had been damaged? What sort of damage should I be looking for? And if they did damage the transmission, do you think I might have any kind of recourse against the towing company? This was parked on a private property parking lot, and towed by a private towing company, no cops were involved (no ticket) and as far as I know no laws were broken. They do this all the time, several of us had cars towed at the same time.

Knock sensor is $97 list or $70 something at a discount OEM parts seller. Very easy to change, but get the orientation and torque right. They like to crack if overtorqued. And like nipper said, check connections first. ---------------

My 00 OBW CEL with a P0420 has been on for months and months. A set of nice new OEM oxygen sensors didn't help, so I'm just waiting until I have the spare cash for a new cat. If it weren't for the state emissions inspection I'd probably wait for the exhaust to rust out before changing it. In my experience, a P0420 code sets the CEL on and it tends to stay on. A CEL that goes on and off like that is probably something else.

Yokohama Avid TRZ http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+TRZ I just got a set of these. Seem to be pretty good. These are UTQG 700 A B tires, they say they should last 80,000 miles. I guess we'll see about that. They are hard, but I haven't noticed any dry traction problems. And since we are way back on a gravel road, I'd rather have the tougher rubber.

Edit: Splain. K,thx,bye.

No, you can do a full timing belt change without removing the radiator. You should be able to verify cam timing by the marks without draining the cooling system.

My gut feeling (aside from the burrito) is cam timing. Or a horribly failed head gasket, which is very unlikely as they don't generally fail in that mode. Can you check the cam sprocket alignment marks?

OK, thanks for that, wasn't sure.

See the attached PDF for a list of the parts, part numbers, list and net prices and notes for the timing belt change parts on a 2000 Outback wagon, 2.5, auto trans. Parts were ordered from www.1stsubaruparts.com which is Walker's Renton Subaru in Renton Washington (State) shipped promptly and received here in St. Louis in about a week. No sales tax of course but shipping was 10% of the order price. These folks are selling at 28% off list price. All of the Subaru dealers here in St. Louis sell at list price so there was a pretty good savings there. You don't need to replace all these parts for a simple timing belt change but the car has 180,000 miles, this is the second timing belt change, it's my wife's car and I wanted to make it as reliable as possible, so I decided to replace everything on the list. Hope this helps! No connection to the seller, just a satisfied customer. sub parts.pdf

Wouldn't this be one of the ignition coils?

Carfax has got their fax wrong in this case.

Sounds like internal radiator gunk-up. I think I'd try a flush and a coolant replacement, and if that didn't help, a new radiator.

The stock factory player in a 2000 Outback will play burned CDs (74 or 80 min) just fine. No MP3s though but you knew that already.

Check http://www.car-part.com A search shows many used engines available starting at $600.

I'm doing incremental transmission fluid changes on the '00 Outbacks. Every 10,000 miles I drain the 3.8 quarts out of the pan and replace it with new Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. This seems to keep the transmissions happy and the fluid looking and smelling good. This coincides with the 10,000 mile interval Mobil 1 oil and filter changes, and the air filter changes. Seems to be working, the cars have 145,000 and 182,000 miles respectively. I really should install external transmission coolers, though - that's a good idea.

I just checked this again: Light came on at 380.7 miles Fill up at 383.2 miles Fill amount = 14.2 gallons MPG = 26.99 miles per gallon Tank capacity = 16.9 gallons Reserve fuel after light comes on = 2.7 gallons Distance after light comes on = 72.86 miles Theroretical max distance per tank of gas = 456.13 miles This is a 2000 OBW.

Might be a booger in the check valve (they call it a check value but we know better). Here's what the book says:

Sell your car and buy another one with an H6. Or get a WRX!

You should remove the radiator and use the puller. It's the quickest way.

A 3% error is probably within the accuracy specification for the speedometer. In any case it's probably not enough to worry about.

Sounds like it's one of those cases where you just have to deal with it until you decide it's time to buy new tires.

How hot did it get? Did the plastic oil separator plate warp from the heat?

In this area, Autozone sells a can of R134a with a re-usable fill hose. One end fits the can, one end fits the low side port on the car, and there's a pressure gauge in the middle. There is no special license required to buy this, at least not in St. Louis MO.