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akeven

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  • Location
    Muskegon
  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • Vehicles
    1997 Legacy L 2.2 AWD

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  1. Hey everyone, thanks for your help. We used a wire brush and finagled our way through it with no problems. It's amazing what stopping the job after everythings going to ************ and working on it the next morning can do. It can be hard to put the tools away for a day, but man it sure is reassuring to work on it after a night of steady drinking, . Anyways, this afternoon after I had driven the legacy around for a while and it stopped raining, I took a look at the new axle CV boot to see how it was holding up. I completely dropped my jaw when I saw new grease everywhere. I cleaned up the area with some rags and for the life of me could not find a slit or hole in the boot after turning the wheel both all the way left and all the way right. I wonder if there was a bunch of excess grease that suddenly became liquidy again after driving around in the rain? Otherwise it looks like I could be completely re-doing this job over in a few weeks. If it is infact the remaned axle, well then I guess that's the price you pay for going cheap. Anyone else ever have a remaned axle completely ************ out right after install?
  2. Alright so this is a weird one, especially for myself and my buddy who have repaired a few axles in our day. Today I was replacing the front passenger side axle on my 97 legacy and we ran into a hell of a time disengaging the old axle splines from the hub. After we fought and fought with a 3 jaw puller, we finally got the old axle disengaged, and we got the axle off after removing the drift pin. Now the extremely weird part. I lined up the new axle, installed the drift pin, but not we can't get the splines of the new driveshaft to go through the hub, i.e. in otherwords, the axle won't fully go through the hub and I cannot get the large driveshaft nut on it. Upon closer investigation, it seems that there are some nasty wear marks on the inside splines of the hub, which we could evidently see from the old axle splines. My question at this point is, has anyone else ever ran into this much trouble replacing a driveaxle? I'm hoping that I can get away with gently filing away at the rough spots on the inside splines of the hub and then slide through the axle, since I know that the new axle splines are in fine working order. I'd like to make sure that the problem is worth remedy before I go ordering a whole new hub with wheel bearing. Thanks
  3. How do you fight the tendency of the engine to turn and move the car forward. Each time that I tried to tighten the bolt it ended up springing back and it didn't feel like I tightened it at all, although the pulley wasn't bouncing around as much after. If I were to put locktite on, I would completely remove the bolt and then install with locktite right? Thanks
  4. I was adding some seafoam to my wagon this morning and when I turned the engine on to flush out the foam, I noticed that the front large pully, which I believe is on the same axis as the crankshaft, had a lot of movement. I got my ear a little closer and I noticed some squeeking, but I don't think thats anything abnormal. This pully that I'm talking about, has a large (25mm?) bolt holding it to the engine. I've read some posts about subi's 'crankwalking' but that seems more like front-rearward freeplay in the shaft, more than a bearing failure. Has anyone ever had this pully bearing take a crap on them? Thanks...
  5. I've been trying to find out all I can about the proper GL-5 75W90 oil to put into my soob and I've come to the conclusion that SP MTL-R is what I'm going to try. Do I run any potential harmful risks to my MT or AWD by changing the oil at 118k miles? I do not believe that the factory oil has ever been changed. Now my question is, do I need to "flush" the transaxle before I fill it with the new fluid? Is simply warming it up and draining, then refilling enough? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
  6. Ended up being that little green switch on the airbag switch module. I dreaded going back in there to fix that, but hopefully now I am completely finished with it.
  7. Well, I took out the switch today and took it apart. What it needed was some more grease in the spring-plunger area. She works like a charm now. Now I've got an airbag light on and I'm not sure why or what to do about it. Any thoughts?
  8. Yeah thats sort of the route I was thinking as well. Does anyone have any ideas to what sort of cleaner would work good for this application and not disrupt any of the electrical connections? I read something in an earlier post about 'contact fluid' but I can't find anything when I search the net.
  9. First Post Here, I picked up a 97 Legacy Wagon this past week and have been very impressed with it thus far. The factor cruise control lever seems very sticky in that when you press down on the lever to set your speed, it slowly creeps back up to it's resting position. Also it only sometimes will actually set the cruise speed, most of the time it is me pushing it down several times to try and make the electrical contact so that it sets the speed. Once the speed is set, the system works great. I have read a few other posts but nothing relating to my issue. I'm thinking that I've narrowed it down to the lever and I tried getting in the wheel opening where the lever sticks out to clean it but it didn't seem to do anything, i.e. it still feels sticky and doesn't engage well. I'm thinking of taking apart the steering wheel cover and seeing if I can get at the switch and hopefully it is easier to get into and clean. Has anyone ever had experience with this issue, I'd appreciate any advice or help.
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