rsb

I guess in part it depends on wether it is a generation 1 brat or a generation 2 brat. For a generation 1 brat, it dosent matter if it is brat specific or not, if it can be removed and is salvagable it is worth saving as most parts are unavailable. If it is a generation 1... I could use a shift knob, drivers side tail light, a dent free tailgate, and a distributor that is not worn out.

If I had bottomless pockets I'd pick up a supercharger from http://www.dicklandy.com/Products/index.htm#Supercharger. They come set up for Aircooled VWs and make it fit on the EA71 in my 78 Brat. That would be pretty sweet!

If you swap those pistons into another block, I'd keep the pistons matched up with the heads. It dose'nt look like there is much room for things to be off in those compression chambers. I suspect those heads are shaved to bump up the compression because they clearanced for the spark plug. When you get it running again, only use premium gas to avoid detonation. While you have the heads off, you might want to find a spark plug that wont stick too far into the cylinder. good luck, thats a sweet find.

Did you fill your quota yet? I have a brat in Woodinville if you're interested.

Thanks for the tips guys! I think I might have to track down a copy of this "how to keep your subaru alive" book. The thought of rebuilding an engine with the Chiltons manual I have is enough to give me nightmares.

Hi all historic subaru enthusiasts, I have a 78 Brat with an ea71. I ran a compression test this past weekend, and it seems I have a bad valve on cylinder 4. I'm going to have to pull the engine to pull the head, as my frame rails are too close to the engine from a previous accident. I figure while I have the engine out, I might as well do the valve seals some of them leak, and replace the oilpan gasket which also leaks. That is my starting point and as projects go, who knows what else will be needed till I get into it. Im curious if I should get an engine stand, or just work on it on a work bench or hanging from a hoist? I found several places on line that have gasket sets and valve seals, but I havent been able to fnd any rings. Does anyone know if rings are still available for the ea71? Any advice on tracking down a servicible distributor? Thanks for the help, Brian

73mako, do any of those engines run? I might be interested in one. Thanks, Brian p.s. you might try the transplant section of the forum for EA 71 to EA 81 swap info, or search.

My carb is the hitachi. It doesnt idle, but you get pretty good at feathering the pedal and using the E-brake at stop lights. but my car is so out of tune its laughable. I did a little bit of maintenance on it a while back, reset the valves, and an oil change... while I was at it I bought a jug of "sea foam" and added it to my gas and oil. My dad was going on and on about what a difference it made in his trucks so I figured what the hell. Then the next day on the drive home from work it started smoking really bad on throttle so I pulled the number four plug and it was covered in black goo. So I replaced all the plugs and let it sit in my garage, starting it up once or twice a week. I took the Brat out today, and it actually idled. I was amazed. Doesnt cold idle, but at stoplights it actually stays running. I am thinking aside from the being horribly tuned, my engine was just VERY dirty. You'd be amazed how much a little gunk will mess up a carborator.

Have you tryed adjusting the carb? The first carborator I rebuilt was the one on my 78 Brat. I learned that rebuilding a carborator is easy, getting it to work again is the difficult part. Mine refuses to idle, and is far worse off than before I rebuilt it. I vote buy a new one if that is the problem. It never hurts to try but dont be too disapointed if it doesnt come out perfect. P.S. my MPG is in the low 20s. Brian

for some good reading check out http://www.subiegal.com shes got some good info in here Rally FAQs section also links to rally classifieds. good resource. -Brian my 2 cents I think a 78 brat w/ a big motor would be smokin

While you're at it, you might also want to check the big nut under the hub cap that holds the wheel/ brake caliper on. The easiest way to test it is grab the wheel and give it a push pull action. The nut has a collar on it which you use a punch to bend the collar into a slot to keep it from backing out. I had that nut back out on my 78 brats drivers front wheel but it was making a wierd intermitent squeek noise. I probably would not have noticed the noise if I had not had my window rolled down. brian

With dark blue as the main color I'd go with either neon orange, or green as an accent color

http://www.nadaguides.com (under classic cars, under passenger cars, under subaru, under 1978, under brat) lists the value at; low $1550, mid $1825, high $2800, with the original MSRP being $4329. Its sad that my brat as rare as it is, is worth less than my dime a dozen vw super beattle (low $2500, mid $3925, high $7800).

I got the new sensor installed, added 2.25 quarts of oil and it started right up... and no more oil leaks!

Thought I would give you guys the update... I checked under the car and it was leaking out of the oil preassure sensor only. I pulled the skid plate off to make sure, and yup thats it. I went to pick up a replacement yesterday and they had to order it. It came in today, but on the way to pick up the part the one thats on there gave up on me so I had to do the old dump a quart of oil in at the stop light trick. Im going to go put the new sensor in.... I sure hope the car starts:-\