pheonix165

theres tons of information on 5-lug which is likely why no one is answering on that one, but from what i understand (i haven't done it myself) is that of all the times to do a five lug...now would be the best because you'll have everything all apart anyway

for competitive use, 185/70/13 is the only thing that really works. unfortunately you don't have a lot of options

well up here in canada the local subaru dealership would typically charge 700-1100 if you allowed them to use used parts. but i don't know what rates are like down in the states.

oh and yes you will need to replace a bit of the hardware as well

dealerships replace air-struts with factory conventional struts all the time

i was reading a thread where someone wanted to lower there rx. it was said that if he used the front struts, front springs, and rear springs in conjunction with his own factory rear shocks he would get the desired affect. would this work for my wagon

so...what....200-250bhp

what oil are you using, i found that the lifters dont much care for anything less then 10w 40

how much can i shave the heads before it causes too much interference. turbos round hear are rare and i'm looking for something to add some pep to my ea82. my sedan is going to become a secondary vehicle so i don't mind reliability issues. this is going to be something for my dad and i to pull wrenches on so....its mostly for kicks and giggles. any thoughts would be great tnks

i would like to see that too but, as far as i know almost all of it is to some degree

the bright side is that being that you have the denso unit, replacement parts tend to be cheaper... i have the denso distributor on my 86 d/r oh yes and make sure that you get the cap from the california model, it will have the much smaller tabs on it that you likely have

while waiting on parts i took the liberty of washing the car and taking some pictures http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u267/pheonix165/Jc029.jpg http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u267/pheonix165/Jc027.jpg and for kicks and giggles heres the parts car http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u267/pheonix165/Jc030.jpg the pictures were just barely too big to post directly

perhaps someone can answer that better...i don't actually know if you chassis was available with fixed struts

actually with a bit of experience your xt6 should be damn near competitive, keep it in stock class with some sticky rubber you should be heading or leading class. stock rx, gl, loyal, ext... will have a bit of issue, not with acceleration or initial turn-in but constant shifting from left to right and back again. people using front drive only will plow a touch on initial turn-in but with a little finesse and abrupt movement should have a bit of snap over steer before plowing on the apposing direction. i've used 4-low and this stabilizes both turn-in and return however it also expands on the plowing upon corner exits (this is what i've found) i realize that it sounds contrary to logic and others may disagree 185/70/13r is a good all-round size but after about three runs i found that the tires will start shaving the treads edge. a bit of lower tire pressure will help even the wear but reduce turn-in response for pavement i use 32-34psi front (hotter track = higher pressure [observe tire warnings]) 28-32psi rear, using seat of pants for this helps. if its hard to turn higher pressure, gets loose to often lower pressure. i often leave it at 30psi. older cars---watch your tack. no rev-limiter most important..... its no fun if you break your car on the first run, keep it safe and ask your peers for advice

okay update: this weekend i got the block into the car and the carb and distributor on the car and fired it up. it ran smooth as whipped butter. i was very surprised. it wont be till i get some other parts before i can shake it down but from the looks of it so far i will be meeting my $500 budget on this car. however the vacuum advance on the distributor is looking a little elusive so wait and see on that one.

my point isn't one of performance, but of usabuility. the computer and sensors (all but the co2) are all water logged from sitting around too long. to me its just not worth messing with something that i already have years of experience with. ofcourse it would be different if everything already worked as it should but it doesn't...and i'm almost out of cash.

perhaps i'm miss understanding. the cams are the same? because throttle body injection (tbi) is not the same as sequential port fuel injection (spfi)

picked up the last of the two cars today, this one is an 88 5-speed front drive with throttle body injection (tbi). this car has 182000km and i paid...ready for this, $60 for it. the cause: the car has a windshield that has fractured and separated from the seal (and the car) and the body has decided to become like Swiss cheese. rather than do anything with the car. i'm taking the long block from the tbi car and converting it for use with a carb...and no, i'm not going to argue this one. it will be a carb and i'm not dealing with the wiring harness issues moving on 86 wagon 160 88 wagon 60 tow 130 reg and day pass 56 total to date 406

well here's a point that i would like clarified please. the 88 i just bought today (update to fallow) is a tbi. is there a difference in cams between the spfi and the tbi?

got the first of the two cars dropped off today. yea me!!! i think i'm actually keeping a running tally on this one. all prices are circumstantial and in canadian funds. so...so far, 86 white 5-speed d/r wagon with sunroof and rust in familiar places. oh and blown hg and 256000km --- $160 cost of tow + dolly charge (i said it was a soobie so they got me a flat deck:rolleyes: ) --- $130 so far: car 160 tow 130 total to date 290 i think i'm doing good so far

i think its something in the neighborhood of 20%. but then i think i heard somewhere that they sold it to a different company?

perhaps i'm one of those few people that think of problems when they may not be problems first, airbag wiring harness talks to the main computer so you will likely need a standalone. second, the six-speed is a huge transmission...will it fit. third, the drive shaft will need to be shortened which isn't such a big deal until the next point four, the centre diff has computer controlled imput and the computer wont know that the drive line is in a shorter lighter car...then again if you went stand alone i guess that little problem goes away on its own. does anyone know if the center diff requires the computer in order to work. fifth, something i'm not familiar with at all...suspension?

great!!! thanks:banana:

okay heres the deall and i have to have made my dissision by tonight jan 12.... i'm looking have baught an 86 5speed d/r wagon with a blown hg. no big deal what i'm thinking is that if i buy (for an unfairly low price) and 88 carbed 2wd wagon i can swap the long blocks without issue and end up with a running car. thoughts and warnings?

would you care to post a couple more pictures of your car?