mbrickell

I got a craftsman extractor kit at sears that I have used a couple times, works well, probably would be helpful for you in this case...

Interesting. I would guess that when the sensor is cold the resistance is higher, and when hot lower. Adding the resistor basically might be telling the engine that it is cold all the time. Kind of falls in line with my car running well cold but not hot. Hmm...just a guess... Are you driving around with the sensor unplugged and the resistor in place?

Many automakers in the continuing quest to minimize NVH ( noise vibration harshness ) also eliminate gear drives since they tend to produce noise.

Very true. I found that the car ran mysteriously well today. A lot less hesitation, still some, but better. I drove 30 miles to school, and then about 1/2 way home the check engine light comes on. It is at that point I realize that I forgot to re-connect the O2 sensor after dropping the exhaust last night. So, that was probably my fast idle, not the adjustment of the TPS so much. Funny how no O2 sensor at all made the car run much smoother, esp with a new O2 sensor. I put the dist cap and rotor on today. Unfortunately, Chapmans sent me the incorrect coolant temp sensor, which I have been eagerly awaiting as I figure that has to be the messiah that is going to cure my car ( yeah right ). So, now we wait to straighten that out... arrghh.

I had a VW Fox, filled a bunch of cavities with the expandable foam, and it helped considerably.

I want one of those canvas toppers for my VW pickup now! Thanks for the teaser!

Yakima crossbars on top, with a old style Yak basketcase sideways across. Lots of stuff would fit. Maybe even trim the basket however wide you want it, or leave as is.

I will pull the plugs when I get some time and weather, Thurs or Fri. Good idea, why the heck have I not done that yet? I did notice that when I pulled the exhaust, the inside of the pipes had some black carbon sooty buildup. Not a lot, mind you, but enough to wipe with a finger or something. When you look at the exhaust outlet itself back under the rear bumper, this is not as apparent. Perhaps normal, but thought I'd mention it. Curious now to see what the plugs look like, if they are carboned...

Excellent call.

Just a thought, maybe it is not if there IS spark, it is WHEN there is spark. Does the CAS have anything to do with this? If you do a search on the forum for engine codes, xt codes, something like that, you should be able to find some discussion on what codes are what.

Hmm, I didn't catch that until you mentioned it. Yeah, I've seen a surprising number of wierd Mexican-tagged cars from time to time passing through on the highway here in Kansas City. Very possible. A/C would be a rarity in Canada from that era but possible. Maybe the Middle East...

I'm guessing Australia, found this on the web: http://autoweb.drive.com.au/cms/usedcars/index.html?results=TRUE&sortBy=Year&sortOrder=&make=Subaru&model=LEONE&otherMake=&otherModel=&state=&maxPrice=&minYear=&maxKms=&bodyType=&Transmission=&Fuel=&kw= Quite similar...

Maybe give Jamie an email: http://www.genuinesubaruparts.com Prices are pretty good for dealer parts in my experience, and you'll get them in quicker than 3 weeks!

Hmm...I would think that if a valve was going to stick, it would be in whatever the default position is. So the IC valve is closed when cold and open when hot? Certainly worth a try, not much to lose by cleaning it. Thanks.

I'd like to have the LEONE side moldings for the rear doors of my Loyale Wagon, just to make people look twice. I looked on Google and found a bunch of Leone stuff...

CAS--exactly what I was thinking...

I'm moving to NZ and getting one of these if there is another...

I second the starter idea. Something making contact that is not moving, with the flywheel that is. Starter is logical place to look first.

I have heard from several people that products like A-All actually tend to leach the plasticizers out of vinyl over time, contributing to cracking later. Also, just plain age has an effect. Really, UV from sunlight is the biggest offender. I know JC Whitney used to carry quite a variety of molded plastic caps to cover dashes. Maybe not any more. There are also companies that will literally take your old dash and mold a new surround foam part around the frame. Cool, but pricey.

For those interested in my Loyale issue, some more "progress"... I notice searching that there are a fair number of Loyale stumbling-hesitation issue posts, so perhaps this is of interest or is helpful for some: Quick background. Loyale runs beautifully when cold for 2 minutes or so. After that, hesitation throughout rev range, 15-20% power loss, revs slowly and laboriously compared to quick and smooth when cold. Phase one: replaced o2 sensor. No effect. Also switched out AFM with one from junkyard donor, no change. Phase two: new plug wires, no effect but did not expect one. Phase three: New fuel filter yesterday, no effect. Phase four: dropped entire exhaust system and inspected for cat parts that some suggested were possibly floating around and blocking exhaust. Flashlight shone down rear part showed perfect matrix of cat element with no sign of damage or degradation. No pieces laying around loose. Front part cannot see since pipe is bent, but no loose sounds or any indication cat element deteriorated, broken, etc. Since I have the head to header exhaust gaskets on order but not here yet, now I have a small exhaust noise since the old ones are so crappy and now reused. Yay. Phase 5: Switched out TPS with one from junkyard donor car. No effect. Same issue with poor performance when warm, feels the same. As it was getting dark, I did not have time to adjust the TPS properly so now my idle speed warm is 1200 or so, not 700 as before swap. Still, driving down the road, zero change. Phase 6: coming. New coolant temp sensor on the way from Jamie. New dist cap and rotor on way as well. Aaaargh!

Agreed. I personally don't care much about downloads, SD socket, etc. I just want accurate real-time digital data on basic functions. Matt

Yeah, very possible. The 45mpg EA82 is probably worth a lot of money to someone...

Interested. Don't have a turbo, of course, so not picky about that part, but like the idea of real digital values for engine coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, rpm, 02 sensor, volts, amps, etc. From a marketing perspective, I am guessing the closer to $200 it is, the better it will sell and the more serious interest you will have. $300 would probably be the absolute limit at which I would be interested. Under $250, you really have my interest, and $200 I think people will beat the doors down. Just my 2c. I am not educated as to the costs and labor involved. A backlit display would be nice for night time. I really like the warning audio idea. Some of us were mentioning on an unrelated thread the other day that an audible warning system for oil pressure, oil temp, coolant temp, etc would be great. A really cool enhancement that is probably not practical to implement but since we're on the idea thing, would be some sort of fuel use rate gauge, ie MPG or estimated MPG functionality... Great idea and look forward to hearing more as you progress.

I'll try that in a few days when I get a chance. Too much rain ( actually welcome so dry here ) to do much outside lately...thanks for the replies, all.

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