Roger87ea82t

All the EA82 turbo engines I have seen have the 370:1 gear ratio transmissions and the non turbos have 3.90:1 gear ratio. So if you swap the transmission you will have to swap the rear gears also. All the turbo EA82 engines I have seen eventually end up with cracked heads between the valves, all you have to do is over heat them. I have seen radiators plugged with mud and coolant leaks that leave these motors destined for the scrap pile unless you can find a good set of used heads.

No, it is off a 1988 GL wagon.

I have one but maybe too far away for you, I am 10 miles north of Salem OR. $35 Pictures on "Parts For Sale" and Salem Craigslist. Roger

From what I understand these hubs are no longer available new so you may be stuck with finding a used one. I would post in the parts wanted section if you can't find one. Roger

If you are buying another transmission for your car be sure and get the correct drive ratio 3.70 for turbo cars and 3.90 for NA cars.

1. To check your motor mounts you need to jack up the car and get underneath with a pry bar and see if there is looseness in the motor mount, you also need to check the transmission mounts too with a pry bar. 2.Be sure to check the inside brake pad not just the outside one. Feel the brake rotor on both sides with your hand, if it is running metal to metal it will feel rough not smooth.

The turbos have a tendency to crack the heads between the valves if they are run low on coolant and over heated. Make sure it is not loosing any coolant or you may have some relatively expensive repairs to fix. Roger

I have ordered quite a few parts from them and saved a lot on gaskets and sensors, they all worked fine, I haven't ordered any for a Subaru though. I ordered windshield wipers for most of my cars on close out prices of around $2 or less each, on some of them the rubber was getting a little hard so you could tell they were older but for the price I was more than satisfied. When I order I try to get all the parts shipped from the same warehouse otherwise the shipping is a lot more and it would work out be cheaper to buy from local parts store for certain items. I find their online parts catalog easy to use once you get used to it. Roger

It has been quite a while since I worked on one of these but if I remember correctly the pump relay is under the carpet on the right side of the passenger seat, between the seat and the rocker panel. Remove the sheet metal plate in the door opening and lift up the carpet. Roger

When cutting the threads with a tap in aluminium alloy always use a light thread cutting oil or WD40 works also. After you cut 3 or 4 revolutions remove the tap and clean out the chips, then more cutting oil and 2 or 3 revolutions and remove and clean out chips again. Repeat this process until you finish the hole, if you try to do it in one pass there is a chance the aluminium chips will gaul the threads and they will not look clean, When cutting threads in aluminium you need to go slow and be careful, if you meet any resistance remove tap and clean chips out and use plenty of fluid. Roger

The trickiest part is splitting the block, You need to pull the wrist pins out of the pistons first. There are 4 aluminum plugs in the side of the shortblock that you need to remove to gain access to the wrist pins. After you remove the plugs, then turn the crank to align the wrist pins with the hole and remove the wrist pin keeper spring. Then the hard part, you need a tool to insert through the center of the wrist pin to pull it out. There a specialty tools out there made for this but what I did is make my own by grinding down the head of a long bolt so it will fit though the hole and have a ledge on one side of the bolt that will catch on to the wrist pin. Then attach it to a slide hammer and pull the pins out, sometime they don't come out easy. Then it is just a matter of finding all the bolts that hold the case halves together, double check because some are hard to find. Good luck, you will have fun.......Roger

In the USA we call it an accellerator pump........Roger

Yes, it is pretty easy and should take less than an hour. Get a pan like you are going to drain the oil out of your engine and put it under your fuel pump. When you disconnect the fuel lines you will have about a quart of fuel come out and you will want to catch it so you don't make a big mess. After you get the pump off, pry the screen out of the inlet pipe, it is plastic and I beleive has a split on one side. after you get it out look at it, if it's not plugged you should be able to see through it. If not blow it out with air or wash it in solvent, pop it back in and after you install it, drive down the road whistleing. ...........Roger

On the inlet side of your pump there is a plastic screen, you can pop it out with a small screwdriver or an awl, see if it is plugged......Roger

If you do blow out your gas line be sure and remove the gas cap first so you won't build up pressure in the tank. When you pull off your fuel pump check the inlet pipe, inside is a plastic screen that will pop out with a small screwdriver or an awl. I have had fuel delivery problems before and after testing and changing eveything I could think of, including the fuel tank, I finally found the inlet screen in the pump was plugged. After cleaning it all my problems disapeared........Roger