mrroot

I've forgotten to update this, but I decided to ditch the covers myself. And I've been running without problems for thousands of miles now, and I like being able to keep an eye on everything. Tension and belt checks are a 5 second job now. Easier to see oil and water pump leaks. And really, the arguments about safety are questionable in my mind. For one thing, the timing belts are buried down against the engine -- you'd rip a finger off on one of the serpentine belts first. Anyhow, glad the thread's been getting so much love - seems everyone has their reasoning. Cheers

Put a link to the diagram you were looking at.

Are we talking about the o-rings for the oil passage connection between the head and the cam tower? If so, I used a regular ( but fat ) o-ring and haven't seen any problems/leaks yet.. And I believe the old ones in there were plain o-rings as well.. There are special metal-reinforced o-rings for this? Really necessary?

You've prolly already checked everything, but here's a quick list to make sure: 1) Make sure your coil is good - check resistances and what not on it, or replace with a known good unit. 2) Make sure the connections to the coil are tight, and make sure the coil casing is clean and not grounding out somewhere. 3) If you're worried about the disty being the problem, you can do a spark test with the coil wire ( the one plugged into the center ) and a good ground, just like you would with a spark plug wire and ground. Obviously, if you get spark, there's something wrong with the cap/rotor. 4) Your amplifier could be bad/going out. This is the unit attached underneath the coil - don't know the check procedures off the top of my head, but replacing with known good would be a quick test if you have a spare. 5) If you have an rpm gauge, you can use it to make sure the ECU is pulsing the coil properly by hooking it up and verifying you're seeing cranking RPM. This can help enormously to isolate the problem as before or after the ECU. 6) All wires connected to the new disty? Just for the information in the thread, how are you checking for spark exactly? Best of luck and let us know..

So anyone else with information? Also, what _would_ happen if I put that turbo back on, and say 10k miles down the road it fails catastrophically. What's the worst damage I could expect? What about the most likely damage ( as opposed to worst case )? Cheers

Outstanding! Thanks for the info.. I would be very interested in anything you may have, turbo and otherwise. Thanks!

Hello everyone, Been a while since I posted. The XT's been running pretty well until last week, when I noticed a coolant leak around the turbo. I didn't think too much of it until I pulled the turbo off ( have to to access the coolant lines to replace/tighten fittings ). I happened to check radial and axial play and noticed that the exhaust turbine moves side to side at least a mm, and makes a squishing noise.. I'm guessing the turbo is shot... So, I have a couple questions: 1) The books ( Haynes/HTKYSA - haven't checked my FSM yet ) strongly recommend against attempting a turbo rebuild.. This good advice? Or can I attempt one? Anyone ever successfully rebuilt theirs? 2) Are there any good places to get the replacement turbo besides obvious JY / ebay? 3) What turbo belongs in the 1986 XT? I have a VF2 ( http://mrroot.net/soob/originals/turbo2.jpg ) in there now, but I know the previous owner replaced it with one from the JY. Parts America claims it should be a VF4 ( http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=HO3&mfrpartnumber=62677&parttype=492&ptset=A ). Anyone know the details on what turbo goes where? As always, I appreciate the USMB's infinite wisdom. Cheers

My '86 XT had cracked heads. Have since replaced with remans and been happy ever since. They do crack pretty easily between the valves b/c there ain't much metal there, and a little overheatin' is enough to strain a crack. I have heard of plenty of people that drive with cracked heads without issue, though, so keep that in mind..

No worries - I appreciate the info. Turns out this thing *is* a turbo, so everything you said applies afterall. I should hear today if they'll take $100 for it. BTW, since it's a turbo, does that mean it has to be the GL-10 trim level? She also mentioned a sunroof.. But the ad says DL.. I'm thinking she's confused..

So you're saying this '86 GL would be an SPFI since it's push-button. Does that mean that if it were an '86 with a D/R, then it would have a carbed engine? So basically, the tranny mandated the fuel delivery system? Push-button would get SPFI, and D/R would get carbed? So what you're trying to tell me is that I'm looking at an SPFI engine ( you know this from push-button tranny ) and so if I put a D/R in there, I have this neutral switch problem? As usual, endless thanks for your help.

Ahh, that's good to hear. I knew I'd be getting a reply from you, GD. Thanks, man. I'm confused, though.. If this is an '86 car, why would it need a plug that wasn't on trannies until '88?

I think I read somewhere else that the plug you are referring to is the neutral plug from carb models? Not super worried about that.. But what's this about different driveline lengths? You're saying a pushbutton 4wd has a different driveline than a d/r 4wd?! Maybe I'm clueless ( probably ), but that doesn't seem right..

How goes, everyone? Had a quick q: looking at a cheap 1986 GL Wagon with the push-button 4wd. Was wondering, if I could get ahold of a D/R, what might be involved in the swap? I hear tell it might be a simple drop-in replacement, with just a cover plate over the 4wd stick? Or it could involve more? I'd dig around the forums more, but I'm kind of anxious to find out sooner so I can go pick this baby up today. What, exactly would be needed from a parts car to make the swap? Thanks in advance for your replies, guys.

Shoot - that's pocket change. I'd pick it up in a heartbeat. =) As far as what's wrong with it - sounds like it might be a massive vacuum leak - makes sense, at least. Idles well enough b/c you can get a vacuum with such a low air volume requirement. But then when you open the butterfly you lose all your vacuum and the engine chokes. At least, that's how I'm thinking about it.. Could be wrong.. Grab yourself a vacuum guage and check, if you're worried about it. If I were you, I'd just check compression on the cylinders, and if all looks well, buy it. If you can't fix it and get tired of it, drag it to Texas and I'll buy it from you. Cheers

Hrmm... So the PCV connection on the intake *to* the turbo could get some oil in it, and therefore it would go *through* the turbo and appear in the intake plenum *from* the turbo and on to the throttle body? Hrmm... I never considered this.. I guess something like a blown head gasket could get the oil foamy enough to work it's way up some of those PCV connections? Maybe I'll go back to the JY and yank that turbo after all.... Cheers

Kick rump roast, man. I've got the same car. Sounds like you have an idea of what you're doing so I won't subject you to the standard deluge of "things to check". There really isn't too much beyond I'd recommend. Although... Pop off the aluminum intake doohickey ( says "Subaru Turbo" and connects the turbo unit to the throttle body - you can't miss it - it's right in the middle of the engine and it's pretty when you clean it up ) and look inside. Check the aluminum tube and the throttle body for signs of oil. If you see any, expect to replace the turbo soon. Also, look for any leaks around the turbo itself where the coolant and oil lines connect. You should be familiar with TOD, so don't worry if you hear that - it's easily repaired. Can't think of anything else at the moment. I got mine for $350, so you should offer $250 and go from there. Good luck!

Oh right on.. Sorry about the misinformation. N

Ooooh yes - I highly recommend the GearWrench ones. I picked up a couple sets ( specifically for my valve covers ) from Sears - absolutely indispensible. Great for all kinds of tricky bolts/nuts. They go on sale often, so keep an eye out and get-you-some!

Sounds like it'd be a good time to get rid of those damn timing belt covers. But if you're not down with that at the moment, I'm fairly certain you can pull the valve covers and replace the seals w/o taking off the timing belt covers ( or anything else, really ). Good luck

That'd be for the Exhaust Gas Recovery (EGR) pipe.. I'm not quite sure why your old heads did not have this - a 1990 model engine would certainly have EGR - this an older engine? Or maybe someone swapped the heads before using an older engine? Also - you might try posting in the other forum "Newer Generation of Subarus" as they're for 1990 and up cars. We're old farts in here. Cheers

Ahhhhh... Forgot the exhaust would be different.. Duh..

Odd... I just changed mine on an EA82T and while it was tight, I was able to get my O2 sensor socket over it and work it with my 3/8" ratchet.. You got it done, so I guess that's all that matters, right?

Hrmm... You might try a heavier oil.. 20W50 is quite common in older soobs, I hear.. Another thought - you said this is a new oil pump.. But what about the cavity the pump sits in? Did you check the tolerances in there? I believe the haynes book covers tolerance checking for it.. Something to consider.. Kick rump roast!

That's a thing of beauty GD.. N

Hell yeah - we should all have a meet 'n greet sometime. I posted to your thread with some [possible] answers to your questions. Mine isn't running yet - ran it for a while, then saw a leaky injector so I'm replacing all four injectors. Hopefuly be running next week when the new ones come in! Cheers