maxmays

It's great to see pictures of this, because this is almost exactly what happened to my vehicle (before I bought it a few weeks ago). I've been thinking about whether or not to do the body work. The only difference was it was on the driver's side instead of the passenger's, but otherwise it's almost exactly the same. Thanks for posting these pics! -Max

Thought this was worth posting again http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4624187692&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3ARTQ%3AUS%3A1 A Syncro Crew Cab! I can't get it myself, so hopefully one of the other conversion fans can do it! -Max

Well, keeping in mind I'm just a newbie as well who's probably more dangerous than helpful when it comes to car repair, here's what I would suggest based on what I know: I would go ahead and get your drive & timing belts (along with timing parts, idler pulley & such I believe; make sure you buy/borrow a timing light from somewhere), new radiator & upper/lower hoses, & thermostat/gasket and do all these at the same time. With the old radiator out it will be rather easy to change all the belts before you install the new radiator & hoses. The thermostat should be done also at this time because it's always a good practice to replace it when you do major cooling system work (or even just when you flush the system ). I've never done valve cover gaskets, but I'm given to understand it's a bit easier than it seems at first glance (I however would feel more comfortable with extensive reading of the instructions and a knowledgeable buddy there with me). The oil pan gasket should be pretty straightforward, and of course put in new oil & filter at the same time. As a newbie, I have found this much out: work that seems extremely hard & complicated really isn't as hard and complicated as I first thought. It just takes some extra time for the first-timer, and then when you come back to it to do it again after several thousand miles you won't be able to imagine why you thought it was hard to begin with. As far as the other items, the true gurus of the board can help you far better than I. I suspect brakes in the rear might be next. . . . My $0.02 worth. -Max

Thanks for the advice. You were both right The pattern of the gear oil on top of the transaxle (towards the passenger's side around the dipstick hole) indicated that since the dipstick was broken and only the handle part of it covered the hole, that oil was splashing out of it. Also, when I did the gear oil change Sunday, I neglected to confirm that I had the right torque on the drain plug, plus I relied on the original metal gasket being an adequate seal. I have basically mulch for a parking spot at home, so when I pulled into a gas station earlier today to pour some gear oil in, I was able to see a consistent dripping from the drain plug. I almost immediately went to the store for some high-temp RTV, and in the parking lot with tools and oil catcher drained the quart or so of oil left in the transaxle, cleaned the plug and the hole, and put rtv on the metal gasket. Used the torque wrench to get it where it needed to be (definitely tighter than before). After waiting a bit I filled the gear oil with 4 quarts, carefully watching the drip. The drip had slowed considerably, although not 100% since the rtv hadn't had quite enough time to fully set. But throughout the afternoon and evening I did lots of stop-and-go driving, and of course, no leaks! So basically, I was a newbie doofus! :-\ Thanks for the advice folks! Max

Sorry to seem repetitive, but does anyone have any thoughts on this? Could it be the rear main seal causing gear oil leakage at that spot? Thanks again, Max

Hello all: As I'm still a newbie, and after trying to search the forums for an answer, I have another question. I have a pretty good leak in the gear oil from the manual transmission. I changed the gear oil on Sunday using just the basic 80w-90 as recommended by my Haynes manual. Had metal shavings on the drain plug but nothing like chunks of metal or anything. But from just driving short distances, I was out of gear oil again as of last night. The dipstick came broken on the car, so I have no way of knowing exactly how much was still in there, but when pointed downhill last night it had a hard time starting, and once started it would whine audibly in 1st & 2nd gears, less so in 3rd, and none in 4th. Didn't get it up to fifth as it's just city driving. Looking at it from the top of the engine this morning I was able to see leftover moisture that appeared to be coming from the top of the transmission where it joins the engine block, above the dipstick hole. I'm thinking I must have a bad seal along there somewhere. My question is, since I'm short of funds right now as well as time, is there some kind of quick fix I can do to slow or stop the leak for the next 5,000-10,000 miles or so, until I can do some work on it? Or is there an easy-out to resealing it that I don't know about? There's virtually no info in Haynes about this kind of thing. Vehicle is 1989 GL-10 Touring Wagon, spfi, 5 spd manual, selective 4wd. Thanks, Max

The best source I know of covers all of western NC, and it's the Iwanna. They sell print editions for $1, or you can go on the website http://www.iwanna.com and click the Asheville edition. They have the phone numbers marked out on the ads online unless you pay $1 online, but it's the same as the print edition. Best classified source available for any car you want to buy (it's how I got my $250 GL-10 wagon).

I just bought a Touring Wagon about a month ago locally for $250, it is wrecked slightly in the driver's front fender & driver's side of the bumper. It's white with blue interior, 5 spd with selective 4wd, and runs well - 215K and it was sitting for a year. Didn't realize they were so rare at first, but then after seeing this thread I remembered last Thursday or Friday seeing another white touring wagon just like mine going the other way in our small hick town. Weird in retrospect, after reading this thread.

Thanks Bella, I'll be sure to check the gear oil. And thanks for the welcome. Subarian, thanks for the tip. This is the first Subaru and the first 4wd vehicle I've owned, so I'm still learning. I'll be sure to test it on my gravel driveway next time, going straight and not turning. One thing I was also wondering from my reading is whether or not a certain amount of whining noise is normal in 4wd mode. Can you answer that? (Or whoever is reading, for that matter?) Thanks, Max

I am a first-time Subaru owner, just purchased a 1989 GL-10 Touring Wagon, 5spd manual, with selective 4wd. I just purchased it last Thursday, and after spending the weekend doing some work to replace the radiator & thermostat, attempted yesterday evening to test the 4wd shifter. When stopped, car warm, I started the vehicle in neutral, then shifted to 1st and shifted the 4wd lever to 4wd hi, then lo, then back to hi before I pressed the gas and released the clutch to move forward. I then proceeded shortly thereafter to make a low-speed right turn (in a parking lot) and around just under 2000 rpm there was a loud, rich whining sound which sounded like it was coming from under the engine almost. I immediately stopped the vehicle and, without turning the vehicle off, attempted to switch it back to Fwd. When I moved the handle to Fwd, it would not switch, and the Fwd lights on my instrument panel stayed on. I drove for a few more feet and heard the same loud whine, stopped, and attempted to switch the gear into 4wd hi and then back to Fwd, but no go, still in 4wd. I then turned out of the parking lot onto my road, which is a steep incline for the first 1/6 mile or so. After going up the hill (the whine at this time came on in the same rpm range, but disappeared around 2,500-3,000; after the hill when I slowed, it came back in the 2,000 range), I came to a stop and again tried to switch to Fwd, with success this time. I did not attempt to change to 4wd again until I knew more. I have attempted to search this problem in 27 pages of previous forum posts, as well as google search and meticulously going over the owner's manual and the Hayne's manual, with no success. A related symptom may be this: the LO light on the instrument panel stays on all the time (the one at the bottom of the car graphic on the instrument panel). The CHECK ENGINE light stays on all the time as well. Now, when I say the LO light stays on all the time, it is only that light, and none of the other related 4wd lights. Even when in 4wd HI, the LO light stays on. The vehicle has been parked for a few months (less than a full year), and has 215k exactly. Runs rough but well after replacing the radiator, and I still need to complete the battery of other maintenance expected of a used Subaru that has been sitting (all fluid replacements, plugs/wires, gear oil, etc.). The previous owner, while not mechanically-minded, kept up well with the maintenance & oil changes as documented in the service records he gave me (he was the 2nd owner for several years). He stopped driving the vehicle due to an accident his wife was in with the vehicle where the driver's front corner was banged in (this in turn pushed in the metal in the front driver's half the vehicle, which caused the engine fan to rub against the radiator, causing the leak). So far this doesn't seem to have affected the handling or any of the other engine components (although I am shopping for a headlight ). I think that's everything related to the problem (and probably some not). If someone could please direct me to a possible cause of the problem and what the solution is, that would be great. Thanks, Max