stephenw22

There is no EA-85 motor type. In 1985, it is probably an EA-82, like yours. I'm not as familiar with U.S. models, but they did make Canadian EA-81 models in 1985 as well. I haven't done a weber swap myself, so I can't help you with any of the finer details.

Thanks Ed! Any idea about the interior or glass? Will it swap over too?

Hi, I may have the opportunity to buy a couple of cheap, totaled Subarus to put together a good one. Forester #1 - 1998, rolled, but interior and most of the glass are still good Forester #2 - 2001, vandalized, entire interior was slashed, outside was keyed all over, and a couple of windows were smashed. Will the interior and glass of the '98 will fit into the '01? Is there anything else I should grab (for spare parts) from the '98 before I send it to the crusher? Thanks!!

We're thinking about taking the plunge and getting a '93 Legacy to replace the '92 Loyale. I've never dealt with this "generation" of Subarus before - how are they to work on? On par with the DL/GL/Loyale? Thanks!

see update at top

The mechies at work are thinking of a silicone/grafoil combo. I have a couple of them puzzling about it at least. I should have a workable solution to try in a few days. I'll keep updating the thread as I get more info.

Ultra Grey is what I've used in the past - it seems to work for about 2 years before I start to see drips again. I have a tube of anaerobic sealant in my shop. Maybe I'll try 1 side with ultra grey and 1 side with anaerobic to compare. Or, maybe o-ring 1 side, and use anaerobic on the other. AAAARGHH! I know there has to be a way to do this to make these engines just a little more bulletproof.

I'm doing my 'scheduled' 2-year maintenance on my loyale, and I was thinking about the cam cases (and how they started to leak again). Has anyone thought about (or tried) to replace the silicone in the cam case groove with a long strand of o-ring material? Maybe cutting a piece to length, and leaving a small gap at the top of the case, where oil isn't likely to leak? I would think that you could have a much better seal with an o-ring there, than with silicone. However, before I go out and try it, I keep thinking that those Subaru engineers must have had a reason for not using an o-ring there. Any ideas? Does anyone have a cam case lying around that they could measure for me? I need to know the width and depth of the groove in the cam case, and my car won't be at that point for a few more days. I could take the dimensions to work and ask a few mechanical engineers about o-ring sizing and material choices. Maybe even score a free o-ring or two from the mechanics. ***UPDATE*** I talked to the guys at work, and I have the materials to try a couple of things. On one side, I'm going to try using a gore-tex cord to seal the cam case. It's rated for 600F, same as Ultra Grey. On the other side, I'm going to use a combination of the gore-tex, and a coppery silicone gasket material (not ultra copper, but something else). For other gaskets, I'm going to use something called "the right stuff". Our mechanics shop swears by it. Hopefully I'll have everything together this weekend, and then in the car by next weekend. I'll let you all know how it works.

For me, a 47 ohm, 4-watt resistor made the CEL light go away and never come back. Maybe the wiring harness condition has something to do with it as well. When I originally did it, I just bent the resistor leads into little loops, and then plugged the resistor into the plug on the wiring harness. I was planning on wrapping it with some tape, but I never got around to it. That was about 2 years ago, and still no problems.

I never take the car offroad - it's the on-road stuff that makes me particularly want the BYB lift. My daily drive to work requires me to only make 3 lefts and 2 rights. The problem is that in the spring and fall, I'm travelling down a mucky-muck road made of gummy clay. I need the rough suspension to shake the clay off my car and in particular, out of the wheel wells. The suspension was way too soft stock, and all I did was pack the wheel wells full until would literally lock up my wheels. I had to stop every mile and dig out my wheel wells. The rough ride of the accord springs and adjustable struts is the only thing that keeps me moving. I guess I could cut coils to get the height back down and give myself an even harsher ride, but I'd rather just do a pure body lift if I could. I realize the SJR lift is beefy (those strut tower extensions look SCARY strong) but I really want to keep the same suspension geometry that I have now.

Are these kits sold anymore? ozified.com isn't doing lift kits right now, and e-mail to the BYB site keeps bouncing back to me. I like the BYB kit because it keeps my suspension where it is right now. I already have a suspension lift (adjustable struts up front, accord springs in the back) and I don't want any more.

I kinda figured it might be a dead spot in the motor, or a bad brush connection that only acts up in the cold. Oh well... At least I can get it running again. I have a pump I could rip off a donor car, but I don't know if it would last that much longer. Thanks for the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th opinions!

I have a goofy problem that I need a second opinion on. Yesterday afternoon, I went to start my Loyale, and it started up just fine. I turned it off after a few minutes of idling, and then it wouldn't start again. I connected the green test connectors and turned the key on, and the fuel pump didn't cycle. I could hear the relay clicking, but no whirring fuel pump. I checked all of the fuses and fusible links, all good. I spent part of the afternoon looking up replacement fuel pumps on the internet. This morning, I tried cranking the car over, just for kicks... It starts up right away, no problems. I let it idle for a couple of minutes, then turn it off, and it starts right up again when I crank it. The problem seems to have disappeared. So, opinions on the problem - is it fuel pump wiring, or fuel pump? Or, is it something else?

You can loosen the lug nuts a turn or 2 from fully tight, then let the car down onto the tires. If they haven't broken loose yet, push on the car and rock it sideways. If that doesn't work, slowly drive around the block with loose lugnuts. A prybar that's the right shape can also pry the rusty rims off. When putting the rims back on, either coat the mating surfaces with old grease, or with some anti-seize. That will keep them loose enough for the next time you take the rims off.

A crimped connection will hold up better under vibration than a soldered connection. A crimped butt splice is the best way to go for longevity. Just make sure you have the right crimp tool. If dirt/dust is a concern, you can get watertight splices from any water pump shop. It's a bare metal butt splice with a special heat shrink sleeve. The heat shrink has a hot glue layer in it that will seal the heat shrink on watertight. Just remember to check resistance on the lead after you splice, but before you shrink the sleeves on.