Ma-fia

I don't have anything smart to say. I'd like to remember this thread, but can't find "subscribe to this thread" option. Things are changing with the speed of light on this board!

Thanks! ..............

There are two vertically stacked screws to adjust Air/Fuel low on the Hitachi. I had the adjustment procedures when we replaced the carb but have lost them. Can anyone refresh my memory on which is which and the basic adjustment procedure. Even the factory service manual gives you the usual "This is beyond you moron, don't even try it!" statement. Thanks!

Good for you! I had to replace wheel bearings after I decided to test how bad my steering wheel would shake at 85mph.

For unknown reason I don't get e-mail notification about replies any more, so I didn't have a clue anybody else answered... Anyway, the choke plate was the first thing I personally checked with the airbox open. Tap gas before starting -- it closes like it should. Warm-up -- it's opening. The car sat for a good while, so first couple of starts the choke didn't want to open 100% (only 90%), but now it does open fully. We also traced all the vacuum lines and found 2 or 3 that were not where they were supposed to be, that fixed rough idling, but it's still idling way too high. There's barely 5-7K (if that) on the carburetor after we bought it (fully rebuilt), so the carb is the last thing I want to mess with, really.

Subusolo2nut, are you sure Hitachi choke on EA-81 is electric? I always thought it was mechanical.

I forgot to mention that the car has a rebuilt carb put on it about 2 years ago. Tapping (or even stomping) the gas does not render any results -- the idle only goes a notch higher. It would be too nice if this could be solved by adjusting the throttle cable, but I doubt it would help -- the car started doing it on her own accord, it sat for a while, yes, but nobody messed with throttle, vacuums or carb. I hope it's not the carb, not again! I will crank her up right now without the airbox and see what the choke plate is doing during all that. Also, isn't 13-16 ft-lb of torque kinda low? But that's what both books I have say. We tightened it to 20 though -- 16 sounded way too loose! My torque wrench has never been calibrated. Would it hurt anything if the torque is a bit off? UPDATE: On cold, I tapped gas once -- the choke closed. I started her and idle was very irregular at first then I tapped gas, it straightened a bit and went to 1500 rpms, but still sounded like the firing was very irregular. Then the same thing - it went up to 2500. At that point the choke was half-way open. I opened it all the way, idle went down to 1500, but still irregular. I guess I need to try cleaning the choke and see if I can adjust hot idle if it opens/closes OK after that. I hope we didn't fill the engine with crud while replacing the manifold gaskets. I also have a big exhaust leak around rear crossmember.

This is my cheap way to downsize pictures: Using "vew" option make your pic smaller on the screen (about however big you want it to be when you post) then push ALT+PrintScreen and then CTRL+V (or go to menu of your pic editor and choose "paste"). After that select your picture area and repaste it. Then save it as a JPG. This method works for me much better then dealing with pixels and compression levels -- it doesn't screw up resolution as much.

My 1982 GLF has developed a high idle problem. It starts good and cold idle seems fairly normal to me (1200-1500), but after it starts warming up, the idle instead of slowly going down, is slowly climbing up, to about 2500-3000 rmps. I am going to dig into the troubleshooting section of the FSM, but I'd like to see if you folks have any ideas. Before, I was blaming the abnormal idle on the leak in the intake manifold, but the manifold is (finally) back on the car with new gaskets, new original bolts and torqued to the spec, but the problem persists. I marked all the hoses well before taking the manifold off, so there shouldn't be a mix-up there. The only changes from "before" are cleaned orifice (in the eng.block) and metal pipe going from the block to the EGR valve (both were clogged dead).

It's a bit off-topic, but relevant enough: I have life-time remans from O'Reiley, I replaced them twice (because of my mechanical illiteracy,not because they went bad I suspect) -- both times nobody cared what the returned CVs were like; if they're in the original box -- O'Reiley is happy. I personally, would never buy CVs on-line, ever (as long as I have a choice of course). Replacing a CV in gen.1 is a piece of cake (if you've done it at least once before), and I prefer to have a physical place to return them to, than some URL on the web!

Leather makes my bum sweat -- no matter winter or summer. In winter it's cold in summer it's hot. I love the looks, but I doubt I'll ever own leather seats. P.S. I don't own dogs or children -- so clean up is not an issue.

On another board, not Subaru, quite a few people reported improved idling (this I care for) and in some cases a tiny bit more hp (I could care less about this) after installation of Hyper Ground System. However, you need to chek what is originally installed on your car, because many upper-end Japanese cars come with this system from the factory. It is fairly expensive though. I am planning on installing better ground on both my cars eventually, but I'll probably find quality wire and do it myself. Speaking in general (I don't own a newer Subaru), good ground is pretty important for newer cars' electronics in order to run properly. It definitely can not hurt anything.

If the clicking is only on one side, you can try to drive it for 15 minutes or so and then check the temp: if one side is much hotter than the other, you'd have your answer. I agree with everyone else: yes, bearings click just like CVs, I found it out the hard way by replacing the CV (at least it was free since I have both CVs under O'Reiley's warranty!)

I've got mine (Luk, EA81 -- car in the signature) for $109 at Pep Boys 2 years ago, life-time warranty; they had it in stock, too.

Gosh, I didn't even know there WAS such thing as a punch size. A punch of indetermined size and structrure to get the pin going + skinny screwdriver were all I had when I did CV swaps (3 or 4 times, all by myself...).