St Nickolas

I'd interrogate the ECU (i.e., pull the codes) to see what it thinks is the problem. Nick

Could you have 2 bad wires? Nick

As an armchair mechanic:headbang: , I was thinking intermittent coil pack. But, Nipper says coil packs fire 1-2 and 3-4. (1=pass front, 2=drivers front, 3 = pass rear, 4=drivers rear). Now I'm liking his cam timing theory as the 2-4 miss could be the drivers side cam out of whack. Good luck, Nick

Hmmmm.....You've removed the intake when trying to get it running? You need the intake on it and sealed up from the Air flow meter to the throttlebody or the engine computer will think there is no air going into the motor, and hence not put any gas to it. Nick

Sounds like the evaporator thermoswitch. This is supposed to shut the system off when/if the evaporator reaches 32F (the condensation would freeze). They fail quite often in an intermittent fashion. Remove the glove box. TS has 3 wires going into it and a probe on the back end that is stuck into the fins of the evaporator. wire colors on my diagram are re/black, brown/white, and green/red. Uh Oh, now I've forgotten which wires I crossed to bypass it (not that what I've done is a safe method). I think I crossed the green/red to the brown/white to bypass it. The clicking you hear is from a relay. **edit: yes, those are the wires I crossed to bypass the TS. As OB99W suggests, it could be working correctly by sensing a freezing condition in the evap.** Nick

First priority is to check the vacuum. Many of the vents and doors that change where the air comes out is regulated by vacuum. Simplest problem would be that the vacuum line from the engine is broken or has a leak. Being a 16yo car, likely that some vacuum lines have cracked. Also, I've kicked one loose with the gas pedal foot. You'll want several feet of vacuum line, a vacuum gauge and pump, lost of patience and be ready to contort and twist around the cab and engine compartment. For the a/c that'd be electrical in nature. Search down old posts for that. Also, make sure you have a decent electrical diagram. The one in the Haynes manual will do. Nick

Sounds like there should be another source for the part and the mech should take it up with the supplier. I've found used parts and prices via: http://www.car-part.com/ Hope you get it sorted out soon, Nick

from: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 -- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 61 Parking Switch or Circuit Oxygen sensors go bad slowly over time. I think they're well toasted by the time the ECU detects anything. Still, you can do some testing on them. You'll need a high impedance meter (all digital meters should qualify). Once things are at operating temp, get the DC voltage from the O2 sensor (ground anywhere on the body. It should read right around 0.5 V DC. Additionally, the ECU should adjust the fuel injection in milliseconds so that you and I wouldn't see it vary by much. Nick

Here's a pic of the cams/crank alignment from the FSM. Timing the pass. side cam at the bottom makes it easy to miss it by a tooth. Better to rotate the crank 360, so that cam mark is straight up (and aligned with mark on rear timing belt cover). Hope this helps. Nick

Not finding any power, I have to ask, (careful here, I may insult your intelligence ) did you turn the ignition and headlamps on? Was your meter properly grounded? Did you run your test (ignition on) with headlamps off, lows on, and again with highs on? Run reverse set of tests with meter on positive battery terminal and probe the connectors/wires to see if they are grounded. Three wires should be a high beam, low beam and common. Common wire could be from power or to ground. My electrical diagram for a 98 shows that power is switched via a relay. So no power to the common wire with ignition off. The other wires (low beam, high beam) would then be grounded via the headlamp switch, and high/low switch. So I think a better question is: "Which wire is grounded when the highbeams are on". As such, the switching side of the relay will be hooked to the common (power) wire and the wire that is grounded when the highs are on. Clear as mud? Nick

Main pulley removal: Should be a hole in the flywheel. Rotate engine while looking down the timing hole. Once you find it, place a punch or screwdriver in it. Might use a short piece of rubber hose to protect the threads. Then use a breaker bar on the pulley socket. This is the preferred method to retorque the pulley bolt, too. Bump method: Denote which way the engine turns. Place breaker bar and socket on pulley bolt so bar smacks ground when starter is 'bumped'. Do so. Voila'. Do a search for how to align the cam pulleys and the crank. The cam pulley marks will be 180 degrees apart from each other Nick

Shouldn't your mechanic do a bit more sleuthing before throwing parts at it? OK, so there is no spark, correct? Two things I can think of to do: 1) check the timing belt. Pull one or both front side covers (all of 3 bolts each) and see if the t belt is all there. 2) Check the engine computer for codes. Get to the Legacy777 homepage for the procedure. Nick

The single digit codes (like your 7) indicate an 'all clear' condition for that portion of the test. Additionally, it indicates which car you have (Manual Trans vs Auto, CA vs USA, Turbo vs N/A). Repeat that test with no connectors connected, and also with the other pair connected. Report those results. Sometimes the codes store til they are erased, sometimes they erase themselves. Nick

I've replaced the R-12 with Freeze 12 on my 91 and 92 Soobs. Cooling is fantastic. Since you'll have to crack the system open, I'd probably go for the switch to 134a. As you do research on this, note that most recommend the system be flushed to remove the old oil in preparation to keep the 134a compatible oil from the old oil. While I haven't run across anyone that has had the oils gel, it sounds like a real possibility. You might also check: http://www.aircondition.com/ for more info. Nick

Sounds like a classic case of a worn out radiator. Cools well at idle and stop and go traffic, but put some power to it for open road speed and temp creeps up. Often you can get some relief (for the engine) by running the heater. Even if the tubes of the rad are clear, the fins start to corrode away from the tubes. Nick