BikeRack

Has anyone found a less expensive off-the-shelf option for the 13mm square male socket used for the rear diff, besides the one at http://ultimatetoolco.com/drainplugs.aspx? I'm sure it's a great tool, but it's a tad pricey. I considered getting a 9/16" pipe plug driver, and grinding it down a bit, but I'd prefer a ready-made piece, both for convenience, and to avoid adversely effecting the metallurgy during the grinding process.

Bummer is, the Forester is at 84k miles. Convenient, huh? Yeah, I drive alot.

I attempted the $5 mechanical fix, and apparently broke the O2 sensor (the housing got twisted and bent). Now, both the sensor and heater lines ohm out to infinity. Prior to my ham-fisted efforts, the computer was throwing the code for reduced catalytic converter efficiency. Now it's issuing a P0037 (heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2), which is understandable. Also understandable, and very annoying, is the fact that this code is issued again immediately upon a second start-up, after clearing the codes with a battery disconnect and pump of the brakes. At least the catalytic code was delayed by a 100 miles or so. To beat the P0037, I've tried bridging the heater supply lines (the black wires) with various resistances, starting with 4.7K. The code stopped issuing when I got down to 330 Ohms, and the voltage across that resistor in-circuit was pulsed (didn't haul out my O-scope to the car yet). My reading concerning O2 sensor heaters indicate a cold resistance of 3 to 7 Ohms is typical, and that the resistance increases as heater temperature increases. I measured the resistance across the sensor and heater lines of a universal O2 sensor at the auto parts store, and found 3.4 Ohms for the heater, and an immeasurably high resistance across the sensor lines. The later surprised me, but I suppose an unheated sensor could present such a high resistance. My question is this: What resistances are optimal to bypass the O2 sensor? Can I fool the ECU with constant resistances across both the heater and sensor lines? If not, does anyone here with a Tactrix OpenPort live in my neck of the woods (Dayton, Ohio)? If I understand correctly, one may selectively "mute" selected codes with an OpenPort and EcuFlash, preventing them from causing a CEL fault, and forcing limp-home mode. Any and all advice is appreciated and welcome!

I have an opportunity to purchase a Forester 2.5XT, with 12,800 miles on it, for $20,700, from a Subaru dealer. The price seems very fair, according to Edmunds. I am concerned, however, by the requirement for high octane gas. I have no idea if the previous owner used the correct octane grade. Also, the dealer had a valet fill the tank so that I could drive it home for the night, and I have no idea what grade he put in. Of course, I had to spool it up, and it felt like was hesitating somewhat, especially when flooring it while in 4th or 5th (finishing off a cloverleaf and merging with traffic). I drove it pretty hard, and am now concerned that possibly incorrect fuel may have caused a problem. It's speed also tends to "hiccup" a little while traveling with cruise in 3rd or 4th. What problems can arise from use of too-low octane fuel, and how does one check for these problems? I have a friend of drives a VW Jetta, and he has an OBDII interface module that allows him to query the ECU in his car. He tried to do the same with the Forester, but it wouldn't connect. Anybody know how to connect to the ECU in the Forester? Also, the engine sounds different from a normally aspirated engine upon starting. There is a brief sound which is similar to the sound made when attempting to start an already started engine; not as loud and grating, but nonetheless present.

I managed to make it to 220,000 miles in my 1998 Legacy Outback before experiencing the dreaded blown head gasket (BHG). I am considering obtaining a rebuilt engine from Colorado Component Rebuilders. The engine I'm considering getting is a 2.2L from a 1995 Legacy. I have been advised by CCR that this is an easy swap, requiring only a different intake manifold, which they would also supply. The 2.2L is cheaper, and from what I've read, more durable than the vintage of 2.5L my car now has. I have two main questions: 1. Is this swap even worth it? The car is not too far from a quarter million miles. The automatic transmission performs just as well as it did 120,000 miles ago, when I bought the car. Besides a few minor repairs (alternator, starter) I did myself, and regularly scheduled maintenance, the car has required no work. Suspension feels great. Besides a few dashboard lights needing replacement, and failure of the keyless entry system, the electrics are fine. The BHG caused the engine to overheat a few times. On those occassions, I stopped the car and turned off the engine and waited for it to cool, of course. I don't think the radiator suffered any damage. No coolant leaks are evident. 1. Is this in fact a straightforward drop in replacement? Besides the mentioned manifold, would any other adaptations need to be made? My local dealer is willing to do the swap, but has never done this before. The bill would amount to about $3500 for parts and labor. 1a. If I proceed with the swap, what other things should I have rebuilt or replaced, as a precautionary measure? Torque converter? CV joints? Thanks in advance for any advice. I really love this car, and would like to keep it around for at least two more years (I drive about 25,000 miles a year). I don't want start pouring money down a hole, though.