Suby Skier

I finally figured out what was causing the thumping and vibration. It was the drive shaft. The front U-joint was almost seized and the rear one was wonr also. A local shop that specializes in drive shaft did the work. It cost $225, which is a lot better than the $600 for a new one. I could not find one in a local junk yard so this was my only ohter option than a new one. The repair place said that this problem is pretty common over 100,000 miles. I hope this may help someone else who may have a similar problem. Ken

Thanks for all the replys. I looked over the U-joints and center bearing of the drive shaft and did not notice any obvious problems. The engine mounts also look good. The center bearing does allow for quite a bit of side to side play, but it is a rubber joint so I guess this may be normal. Ken

I am getting a thumping noise with about three thumps coming from somewhere underneath the arm rest and parking brake lever (you can feel it). It occurs if when starting out from a stop or when stomping on the gas when driving. The car is an 03 Outback 3.0 VDC automatic with 121,000 miles. I thought it might be the tranny mount and changed it out but the sound is still there. I had a problem previously withe a clicking CV axle and fixed that problems by changing the axle. I now changed the other axle thinking that it may be bad, but the problem is still there. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing this thumping noise? I figure it has to be something related to the transmission or drivetrain given the location of the noise. Thanks in advance for any ideas. Ken

Thanks for the reply, I checked the heat shields very well and they are tight and clear of the drivetrain and exhaust. I have checked evrything that I think could cause the noise and looking at the grease leak on the left side near the steering nuckle, which leads me to think that maybe this joint has worn out because I can't find anything else obvious. Thanks, Ken

I have an 03 OBW 3.0l VDC with a 117k miles on it. The inner boot was torn and was repaired by putting on a new boot 12,000 miles ago. The car makes an intermittent clicking/ticking noise when driving straight. The noise does not seem to be affected by turns which is common for the outside CV joint. This sound almost resembles a card in spokes of a bike. The sound seems like a metallic tick. It makes this noise at all speeds but is not as noticeable when driving faster. The noise is most noticeable if the windows are down and driving slower before wind noise interferes with hearing the clicking noise. Can a inner axle joint make this clicking/ticking sound? I have checked out the driveline and everything looks fine along with the exhaust heat shields, brakes, etc. Thanks in advance, Ken

The car has 117,000 miles and was serviced regularily at Subaru and the tranny fluid was last changed around 90K. The fluid level is good. I checked this morning when the car was just started with an idle around 1000 rpm and then it would hold and not roll forward on an incline while in reverse. I plan on changing the tranny fluid tonight with BG auto tranny conditioer to see if it changes anything. Ken

I have a 2003 Legacy Outback wagon 3.0l VDC model that will roll forward when in reverse when on a hill while idling. If you push the accelereator it will then back up but makes a clincking/ticking/creaking noise. It appears that the exhaust system pipes will flex and that this may be causing the noise problems. I checked under the car, the heat shield and drive shaft but they do not seem to be touching. I looked at the tranny mounts and they appear to be OK but do flex when the tranny is pulled on. What would cause a car to roll forward when in reverse? It also will go backward if you are going up a hill with the car in a forward drive gear. Is something out of adjustment? Could this maybe be a brake band that needs adjusting or something else? Or does it indicate a need to have the tranny rebuilt? The car drives and shifts fine once you get going. Thanks in advance! Ken

Has anyone check or changed the air filtration system filter?

You need the brake switch and clutch switch if it is a manual tranny. I believe that there are seperate connectors for both. I also assume that you installed the master switch on the right side of the steering wheel on the dash this will light up when selected. Also check the fuse box. It is probably fine because it shares the same circuit with somthing else I believe. Also check the column control switch to make sure the pins line up. Some have 4 pins instead of three and then only two pins line up. Good luck, Ken

I did replace the command column switch from the Legacy kit I had. When looking at the switches the one I replaced had a 4 pin connector plugging into the stock 3 pin roll connector on the car. When plugging in the 4 pin connector the way it lines up into the roll connector only two of the three pins line up, hence the problem. The parts numbers of the switches are the same except for a -1 or -2 at the end. The good one had a white connector and the one I replaced had a black connector. Anyway I am glad to have discovered my problem. Ken

I got a kit from a member from this board. It no longer worked on his car because of a JDM turbo engine change I believe. I had the same problem and could not find one in a junk yard and the kit was no longer availabe from Subaru. I had ordered a Subaru cruise control kit from a Subaru dealer for a Legacy hoping that some parts would work. When I got it I compared it to the literature I found on this board. The only parts that were the same were the clutch switch and the column command switch. I swapped the command switch and it then worked. Ken

I finally found my problem. The column command switch had 4 pins instead of 3 from the kit I got. This caused only 2 pins to be contacted when plugged into the connector instead of all three. Thanks again for the reply's. Ken

I checked the wire colors to the switches (clutch and brake) and they matched what the wiring diagram showed. I guess I am going to need to check the various components for the correct ohms when I get a chance. Ken

I did check that, each switch is actuated by the black plunger against the white plug. I do not have the exact Haynes manual but I have the wiring diagram that came with the kit. I will check the wires and colors to see if they match up. Thanks, Ken

I was very lucky to get hold of a cruise control conversion kit for my 97 OBS thanks to a member on this board I installed all the parts (Servo unit, computer, main switch, column switch, brake and clutch swiches). I tried the curise control but it does not work. I do get the light on the main switch on the dash when I depress it. I checked and readjusted the clutch and brake switches too but thise still did not help. I also rechecked all electical connectors too and the fuse. Does anybody have any idea what might be wrong. This kit came off of another 97 OBS with a manual like mine. Does anybody have any troubleshooting procedures to try to find out what is causing the problem. Thanks in advance, Ken