Nomad

Yep, I've done it. Works great, except that you need a way to oil the compressor. An inline oiler works, THEN you need an oil water separator on the output side... Need to get my hands on a York compressor, you bet it's gonna make things simpler; they're self oiling. As for a walk through, I'll post later after work...

My car <which is now Rear Wheel Drive> has been bumping/banging near the rear diff on applying power. Looked under there today, seems the front hanger bushing <up above the input flange> is pooched. Anyone have a part number? I'm presuming that's a stealer-only part. If not, other sources <read CHEEPER> appreciated. Any input on changing that sucker? It LOOKS fairly straightforward... Thanks!

Yup. Their diffy has flange outputs, while ours uses stubs... so they change 'em over to flanges to use our LSDs. But really no point in going the other way, since we're the ones with the desirable LSD anyway. There's an page describing the swap, ill see if i can find it.

I need one! Another mechanic was lookin over my Sube, and he lost the cap... Subes are really hard to find around here, yet I am NOT buying a new part from the stealership. Is there any other car/model/make that'll fit an EA82? Thanks!

here in Toronto, most of our techs are morons who just go by what their computer says the car is s'posed to have on it. For example, if your vin says the car is a v6 and you drive it in with a v8, they get all confused and wonder how the computer could be wrong. There is a "hot rod" clause in our testing laws, however... it states that if the car has an engine/drivetrain other than stock, it must be tested by 1980 year standards. The trouble is, most of the techs either don't know about it or just pretend not to know. Me? a few ball bearings in the right places and 3-5 gallons gas to one gallon of methyl hydrate in the tank. AFTER a complete tune-up of course... Good luck!

Because she <my D/Ranged wagon> just won't quit. Starts on frigid <-32 degrees the other night brrrr!> mornings, carries all my tools (well, MOST ) decent mileage, easy to work on (even though the aftermarket SUCKS!)... And, the BEST is the look on loser neighbours faces when they intentionally plow me into my driveway with a three foot high embankment, and I just drove over/through it on the way to work Wednesday morning. That, and hauling a stuck fullsize Chev van out of a ditch the other night was cool too! Sure, she's let me down a coupla times, but in retrospect, they were no biggie, coulda been worse. I don't think i've ever owned a more reliable machine <although my 84 Grand Prix comes a close second R.I.P.> Long live the Mighty Subie!

Those are some excellent products. Too bad I live so darn far away... Keep up the good work!

My 89 DL <pretty much same as Loyale> wagon does the same thing. Course, i'm pretty sure it's brake fluid hasn't ever been flushed; not many ppl think to do it. Soon as springtime comes, i'm going to do that... Also, 99obw's got the right idea about the guides. My car's got a rear disc kit on it, so I'll need to check those too. Good Luck!

Give me some of THAT!? Are those commercially available?

LMAO!! :grin: :lol:

"stuck in 4wd? what the hell's the problem then? " That's funny! You'd figure it wouldn't really be a problem... But i do need to be able to go from 2 to 4 and back, this is a <mostly>street driven car. Okay. You guys are awesome... my local mechanics don't know a thing about these cars, even the local import "specialist" never has a clue... he's ALWAYS got something to say though. The linkage is fine. The tires are the same size. There is no drivetrain bind. I checked all that before i posted, just couldn't write it up. 'preciate the thoroughness... Anyhow, I got it into 2 wheel, by playing around with the lever. It does go all the way down. It just doesn't always shift. Having put the trans in the car, I learned that the two linkages (2 to 4 and then Hi/Lo) are actuated in sequence. Hi/Lo works fine. So therefore, the system is getting through its whole range of motion. "1. The pin that hold the shift fork in position on the shift arm, somehow came out while you were in 4wd. 2. The shift fork is either bent of broken. 3. The shift fork is worn out enough that it doesn’t move the syncro ring far enough to disengage the syncro. If you decide to open things up and take a look, the good new is that you do not have to split the transmission. Every thing in the transfer case is accessible by taking off the inspection plate that's on to of the transmission." GlCraigGT, I think you're absolutely right. I was hoping it might be something else, that I didn't have to get inside the trans for, but at least the good news is that i don't have to split the case... just might still have to drop the trans though... I'm HOPING it's reason number one. Number two seems more likely, but still fixable. Number three is possible, but the way the shfter feels when I push down. Its like it'll finally "catch" on somthing, and then it'll disengage gear; but if there's ANY bind or resistance in the shift, it'll slide past the engagement point and not do anythng, it stays in 4x. A least NOW its in 2x and I can figure it out as I drive it. <groan> and just in time for snow. Anyone have a dual range or parts for one up near north? I'm in Toronto, Ontario... will be somewhere in NY next month I think... Thanks for the help all! I really appreciate it. By the way, I LOVE how this board has evolved over the past few years. There's a TON more info here for the old Subes than anywhere else! Let's keep it up!

Hi all! My dual range is stuck in 4wd. Went to shift from 4 to 2, the lever went down, and nothing happened. It didn't FEEL like I broke anything. I can still shift between hi and lo, but I cant get it to go back into 2. This kinda sucks. I'm glad I can still drive the car, but tight turns are impossible. Any thoughts? Thanks,

Thanks for all the Subaru help and support in 2003...:wave: And all the best for 2004!! Keep the Subes Rollin and don't party TOO hard!

They are replaceable. My Dad has replaced two of them for me in his shop: one from the front half, one on the rear of an EA-82 shaft. Granted, they are staked in, but the joint comes with instuctions on how to install it. as i recall you'll need a REALLY bfh and a good bench vice. http://www.rockforddriveline.com/ Part Number 430-10. The joints are excellent quality, and are even regreasable. Rockwell's stuff can be bought at a good parts house. Mine were $50 CDN each <like 2 dollars USD > out the door. If they can't find Subaru in the application, just use the part number. As a side note, Jaguar uses these same joints in all their old XJ-x series cars up to mid 90's... those beasts weigh like up to 5000lbs and the independent rears are good to 500hp, so i figure these joints are strong! However as Qman said, you need to find out what's blowin 'em in the first place. Good Luck

Whats a 22b?