nighthawk

ditto

Thanks for the come back. I'll try local tuner shops (didn't think of that). I was thinking about just getting a block of aluminum about the same size as the exhaust gasket, about 1/2-3/4 " thick, machine it to match the gasket, make two, then drill and tap a hole in the left one, mount them between the exhaust and head with an extra gasket. Maybe tommorrow.............

I've been Bung Hunting, heard all the jokes. Tried NAPA, Haredware, Tractor/Farm supply and Home Depot. No Bungs...... Any idaes where I might find the Bung for the exhaust manifold?

I recently replaced the blown 2.5 with a JDM 2.2 on my son's outback. The engine works excellent but there wasn't any EGR bung in the left head. Apparently the engine was a pre 95, my OB is a 98. I found the correct Intake with everything on it and I'm trying to figure out what to do about the missing EGR hole in the head. I found a correct left head in a junk yard, mileage unknown. The outside was clean but through the port holes, it looked rust colored because someone had already pulled the injectors and left the hood open. Is it possible to drill and tap the hole or is it more prudent to get the head and have it serviced at a machine shop? I have the jdm Intake on it now and it works great, but Inspection is coming in Sept. and the EGR light/ message will cause a fail. Any ideas?

When they line up does the trans slide far enough to contact the block all around or is there still space left?

I tried jacking the tranny but more than 1-2". I already took care of the cussing for the next 3 jobs. I even went so far as to wish I was working on a rabbit.

I used an alignment tool to match the clutch and flywheel. What I'm hearing is that you just keep trying until the two parts get close enough to clamp or secure?......Nothing more sure?, I don't want to wreck the splines on the shaft.

Sorry no sex questions here! I'm trying to re install my engine. I'm putting a ej22 into my outback MT5. I switched the flywheel and clutch set up to the new engine ( less than 1000 miles when the engine blew). I'm using a motor hoist and having a hard time making the final connection. It feels like the motor is on the tail of the tranny, but I can't get the motor clse enough to the body of the trans. I've tried rocking the front pulley and rocking the wheels to get the final push. The top gets close, or the bottom gets close, but can't manage to get them close togather. Is the fit real close when it's right or should I get it close or draw it in with the bolts. I'm doing this by myself, so any advice that would work will be helpful.

Don't know the year on the motor, it's a JDM. There wasn't any purge control on the japanese intake. Motor still on engine stand.

So I pulled the oil pan off my Outback (98) after the engine sounded like a blender full of bolts and found large chunks of metal shavings (non aluminum, checked with a magnet), about 1/4 cup full. So I decided to put a 2.2 in rather than take the time and $ to find out if I have a boat anchor. Checked around and found the best deal for a 2.2 was a local JDM shop (JDM Enterprises in Philly). Got the motor home went thru changing wire harness from the 2.5 to the manifold of the 2.2. Everything hooked up except the wires from the EGR solonoid ( brown, left/ back, under manifold) and the purge control valve (black, right/ back, under the manifold). Question: Is there a solution? Do I need to go round up a US 2.2 manifold with the harness? Should I pull the heads from the 2.5, use the old Manifold and hope for the best? (I did this cause gas here is right around $3.00) Any suggestions????

New to USMB Live in PA bought a 98 2.5 DOHC outback for my son at U of Vermont, from a guy on ebay (Casey) in Montpelier VT. Long story short, the guy was a sleeze, car went about 1000 miles before engine started to leak from from and rear seals, bad clutch, stopped running on the way back to PA. Nasty clunking and grinding inside block. Anyway I gonna pull engine to check heads and see inside condition. Here's my question, if I need a new engine, I read that 95-98 will work, but will any more current, lower mileage engines work? Has anybody done this before? What needs to be changed? Is an Impreza or Forrester 2.5 DOHC engine the same? (Have done VWRabbits before where all blocks are basically the same). Any help would be great!!!