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SubySwack

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  • Location
    Chehalis
  • Vehicles
    '85 GL Turbo 4WD

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  1. I have to ask... The result of that is what again??? Either way it has to be entertaining to watch.
  2. Thanks for some entertainment to lighten the mood... The engine is getting plenty of fuel but after sitting for 2 years it probably isn't very usable fuel. I didn't use your method but I do know it has spark! Unplugged a wire from the spark plug and aimed it at a piece of bare metal... It has spark. I am towing my car here on a trailer in a few days. (big disappointment since I wanted to drive it here..) Then it will be a lot easier to work on since I will just have to walk out my front door.
  3. Here's what the VIN decoder came up with. I hope this helps. http://www.carcare.org/stats.shtml VIN 'JF2AN55B3G' identified as: 1986 Subaru GL-10 4-Door Wagon Drivetrain: All Wheel Drive Transmission: 5-Speed Manual Overdrive Engine: H4 1.8L 1781cc FI GAS VIN [457] 1986 Subaru GL-10 4-Door Wagon Drivetrain: All Wheel Drive Transmission: 3-Speed Automatic Engine: H4 1.8L 1781cc FI GAS VIN [457] On the side of things regarding the gasket, I'm not sure. This should help... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57054
  4. When I redid the timing belts so they were aligned correctly I lined the crank up to the 0 degree mark on the flywheel and then lined up the driver side camshaft. In another thread on this forum I saw someone talking about lining them up at the second line, (10 degrees...) Another thing I thought was odd but didn't think to mention. (nice one.. lol) When I turn the ignition on everything seems to work correctly except for my turbo. The display on the dash (full digital) doesnt show the turbo spinning liek it is giving boost. When I unplug the fuse for the coil and the computer, the turbo indicator works correctly but then my tach and temp guages dont work. Since those green plugs are connected, would those plugs cause the turbo indicator to not function until the fuse is pulled for the computer? By what you have said and what I have seen with my friends car the plugs shouldn't be connected. If it starts a diagnostic sequence in the computer, it may shut those off but I'm not sure. Either way they are goign to be unhooked when I can get to the car again.
  5. That is something I noticed last night. I checked for the green plugs and they were under the steering column like I thought for that model. The weird thing is they are already plugged in. Does it come like that from the factory? My friend's Soob had the connectors plugged in also but on his car they are in the engine compartment next to the firewall. The plugs on my car are definitely not the easiest to get to since they are stuffed under the dash behind some paneling. I don't think it would but I will ask anyway since I can't think of anything else, would those plugs prevent it from starting if it has been sitting for 2 years? We tried to start the car last night after I fixed the firing order on the cap and it fired in 2 cylinders and then stopped. It wouldn't fire in any cylinders after that but it turned over. Bad gas?? Something to try since I really don't have the time or money or the shop for that matter to tear apart the engine again.. By the way, ignore my post last night... Wasn't thinking straight. lol
  6. I had faith until I just thought of another option that I could have screwed up... When you set the timing you put the crankshaft at tdc. Then you place the driver side cam to tdc also. My thought is, when you set the crank at tdc, it has to be on the compression stroke for cylinder 1 doesn't it? I am pretty much positive about that... I guess that means I take apart my engine again. I don't have a shop to do that in so this is really going to get interesting. These past 2 weeks have been hell and now I discover I get to take apart my engine for the 2nd time. Oh I'm just SO looking forward to it... lol </sarcasm>
  7. 85 GL-10 116,242 miles.... Not that bad for the price I paid. $250
  8. I turned the crank 360 before putting the second belt on. We checked last time I worked on the car to see if the distributor was on cylinder 1 and it was 180 degrees off. (only the cap was removed, not the whole distributor assembly) Do I just rearrange the plug wires so it matches or is there a longer procedure? I am sure we are fiving it plenty of gas. If anything we are either getting very close to if not flooding it. (which isn't good anyway...) I am going to try to get back out there this week to work on it and hopefully bring it back home with me this time. The cap being wrong is the last thing I can think of that would keep it from firing. We checked spark to all 4 cylnders, replaced a coil off a running car with the one on my car and it still didn't fire, and checked the alignment of the cams and crank, (running the car without timing covers, street driving only.) The cap is the last thing I can test and if that doesn't get it to fire I don't know what to do. How hard was your car to start the first time you tried to fire it?
  9. I can take any other suggestions as to why it may not start but I just found out my timing from the dist cap may be way off. <moron>(courtesy of me)</moron> I'm not anywhere near the car at the moment to see if I am right or not, but I am hoping that is all that is preventing me from driving it back home. If the timing is fine, what else could it be?
  10. Yes. I did that. I found the procedure in the USRM to do the timing and then followed it exactly. I just realized we had tried starting it before we did the timing belts and it never started then either. It turned over but it wasn't very smooth. Everything was out of order. Now it turns smoothly but it just doesn't fire up.
  11. I forgot to mention that it is a FI car but we still tried that too... My next test is to siphon out the old fuel and put new in. Then keep turning the key till something happens.... Anything else it may be?? I need help.
  12. Hey all. I used to be TarmacSuby until I had to reset my password everytime I wanted to log in. So if you don't hear from me again for a while you know what happened... again... Anyway, I finally have my car rebuilt after redoing the timing belts. '85 Sube GL Turbo (EA82T Block) I have tried to start it many times and I have gone through the engine many times. It is getting spark, fuel, and air but it still won't start up and run. It turns over nice and smooth but it never fires or even tries. The issue is I have no clue where to go next. We even took the ignition coil off a running suby (my friends car that was helping me.. lol) and tried to start the car with it and still nothing. Never fired, never tried. The car we took the coil off of to test on mine made the exact same sound when we turned it over and it was missing the coil. (Replace the coil??)Keep in mind the car has been sitting for 2 years with no movement and same gas in the tank. Any suggestions as to what to check or what you may even know it is, I would love to know. Another problem is I am 17 and my mother is about to sell the only other vehicle I am allowed to drive so she can have more money for her car. So, to put it simply, I REALLY need this car to run and I need it soon. Being addicted to subaru's, you know the feeling. I don't want the thought of buying another car or even buying a new engine to put in theis current one. I don't have the money for either. Once the car runs it will basically be my income. Thanks for any help...
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