gmcfan

my '84 ea81 5 speed sedan drinks gas like it is going out of style. I need to get rid of that sh**ty single barrel and go for the weber 2 barrel! My grandfathers 86 lincoln towncar puts my car to shame. his gets 28 MPG! its got a big fat 7 litre V8 too!

A blown head gasket won't cause blow by into the crankcase. Blow by is a natural thing with an internal cumbustion engine, the rings can't seal 100% otherwise, engine makers wouldn't have invented road draft tubes, and eventually, PCV valves to help vent gasses and lower pollution coming out of the engine. Check your PCV valves, they could be plugged, causing excessive pressure in the crankcase.

6'2 1/2" 300 LBS. I fit in my car okay, I actually move the seat forward as close as I can, I dont like to be too far away from the wheel for some reason. My youger brother is 6'5" 180 LBS and he fits with little problem, except the knee in the wheel thing.

That's grade AA bull. They can get the parts, they probably didnt WANT to do it though.

I checked the disty, about 1/8" side to side play. THanks for the advice everybody, I think I will get it rebushed.

my '84 sedan has 173,748 & 4/10th's with a different ea81 swapped in not long ago. I personally have only logged 926 3/10th's on it since I have gotten it.

My 1962 GMC had self adjusting drum brakes on all four wheels. My dad had them on the rear of his '79 Dodge van too.

Mabye loose castle nut on front wheel. Mine makes a scraping grinding noise when I am just rolling, or when I let of the gas. The castle nut was loose on mine, well, still is. I can't seem to tighten it up enough. I would check the castle nut along with everything else the guys said. THe easiest thing to do would probably be to try to turn the nut back and fourth.

It is on the front of the engine.

http://www.clarion.com http://www.clarion.com/usa/service/manual.htm Try them, they probably have it, and if they don't, you can probably request it from them. Hope this helps, Jon

MilesFox-1984 ea81 1800, single barrel weber carb. not origional engine as far as I know. skip-I can only find one set of diag. connectors, they are green and the contacts are set up in a "T" configuration --| like this. I plugged them in, and checked codes, it sayed "ignition pulse system" with the connectors plugged and unplugged.

Hi all! I noticed today for the first time, that there is some kind of red plug on the front of the engine, on the right head. It looks like it used to have wires going to it, but they seem to be broken off. Could this be a sensor for the ECU? After about fifteen minutes of driving, the ECU light comes on. It does not go off. After the car has cooled, start it up, the light is off, but comes back on when the engine warms up. Can anyone shed some light on this thing? it does not show it in my chilton manual, but I figured someone on here knows what it is. Thanks in advance, Jon

1984 ea81 GL Sedan I was going down to the store last night, 25 degrees outside. The car was fine when I went down there. But, as I drove back, the tach started jumping around from 2000 all the way up to 4000 RPM, sometimes stopping at 4000, then going back down and jittering. I pushed in the clutch and revved it up a couple of times, the tach settled back down, smooth as its always been. Then, a little while later, it started doing it again! what is the problem, I have read on the repair manual section, that this is caused by a bad distributor, I don't believe it would just start doing it out of the blue. This is the first time it has happened. Could there be something else wrong? anyone else have expereince with this? I don't have the money to get a new or used distributor right now, and things keep going wrong with this thing. It is also my vehicle for going back and fourth to work in. What can I do?

Don't knock the pushrod engines. Where would we be without them? still guiding horses around pulling carts, thats where! I saw a chevy nova with a 989 HP PUSHROD engine once. Fast, awsome. Timing belts are a pain in the rump roast, and that is all there is to it. My uncle had to replace the timing belt on some car he had, and it took him 2 days. Had to pull half of the engine apart to get to it. I say on this point, we took a step back away from making cars anyone can work on.

I am having a problem with my '84 front wheel drive subaru. One day, I was inspecting the front brakes, and I had front jacked up off the ground. I found I could wiggle the right front wheel back and fourth, a sign of trouble. I checked the castle nut. I could turn it with my fingers. The cotter pin was still in it, so I pulled the pin, and torqed the nut to specs. I noticed, however, that the shaft turned ever so slightly, telling my that the splines are damaged Anyway, I tightened it, all was good. I drove it for about a week, and out of curiousity, I checked the nut again. It was loose again! the cotter pin was installed, so I know the nut can't travel far. What is the deal? I think from all the years of the nut being loose, and the wheel vibrating back and fourth, chewed up the splines on either the rotor, or the shaft. I guess I will have to pull the disk and all to find out. All the parts seem to be there, a donut looking thing, with a split in it, I guess its the "center peice" as my book calls it, as you tighted the castle nut, it gets pushed in, and keeps the rotor centered, and a thick washer between that and the nut. What do you guys think? Pull the rotor? with the car on the ground, I can push the car down and let it come back up, and the right wheel makes a metal on metal groaning noise, so I know it is still loose. I can also be driving, have my foot of the clutch at low speeds (I noticed this at the wal-mart parking lot) and the right wheel makes a rythmic metal groaning sound. When I push in the clutch, it goes away, so I figure, in the presence of torque, the shaft is moving around in there. I am really concerned about this. What shoud l I do? Sorry for the long post.